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Features "Snoopy" Model A Hot Rod Survivor

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Denns1989, Sep 8, 2014.

  1. yeah one thing I tell everyone before they start running a car that's been sitting for a long time DROP THE PAN. i had a friend who had a 33 that had been sitting in a barn for about as long as snoopy, he dropped the pan, and the oil had turned to a solid. no joke, it was like Elmer's glue at the bottom. once that humidity gets in, the oil inside is in big trouble. check it out for sure, cleaning out a pan is easier than cleaning out an engine
    volvobrynk and Denns1989 like this.
  2. K.L
    Joined: Jul 15, 2014
    Posts: 93


  3. ahhh - I was wondering what that was ! I'm sure lots of goodies in there !

    Progress in the way of me spending money :)
    New water pumps, rad hoses, thermostats, fuel pump kit, carb kit, motor mounts, points,condensor, cap & wires, coil, battery all ordered and starter & generator removed & dropped off at rebuilder with instructions to not paint the outside of either so they don't stick out like a sore thumb :)
    I work mon-fri & the car is in the shop at my mothers (an hour outside of town) so I only have weekends & right now the weather is nice enough outside that I'm still working on some outside jobs, I will get into the thick of it once once the weather turns at the end of October :)

    Here is the basic plan:

    > Get motor running decent, this includes all the items ordered above as well as cleaning out the gas tank, fluid flush & change & making sure the wiring isn't a fireball waiting to happen, replace light bulbs etc.
    > Complete brake job including hard lines, flex lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, shoes & hardware, if I can save the drums I will, also replace hub seals for sure & bearings as necessary.
    > Replace all rubber bushings in suspension & check king pins, tie rods etc., replace as necessary.
    > Determine my tire plan & execute
    > Haul to town for exhaust system install, definetly Smithy's mufflers, still on the fence about the manifolds... I really like the look of laker pipes but don't want new ones, need them a bit banged up to match the car, also not sure if I'm taking away for the car by removing the manifolds & pipe work already there..
    > Clean, Scrub & straighten up interior.
    > Polish existing paint the best I can.
    > Install the custom plates ordered yesterday "Snewpee" as this was the only spelling that was available & drive the damn wheels off it!

    Barring any major issues (blown motor / gearbox) I hope to have it roadworthy for the Spring of 2015...
  4. Robert Crosse
    Joined: Sep 10, 2014
    Posts: 152

    Robert Crosse
    from WNY

    "Snewpee".... I like that even more than the dog.

    Why not have the Muff shop make up your lake pipes, wouldn't be hard and they would patina up pretty quick, plus it's not hard to hurry that process up.
    Think about some nice distressed red pinstripes, not perfect, something that looks like it was done 50+ years ago. Would look good on the silver, and it would put a bit of you into it.

    Denns1989 likes this.
  5. TinShed
    Joined: Mar 3, 2011
    Posts: 547


    Neat find!!!!

    Thanks for sharing it with us!!!
    Denns1989 likes this.
  6. PBbbttt !! Your car man......get it ! Soul is worth more then breath. Make it scream if ya' wanna. Just adding your two cents, to the pile. Pipe 'er is all bolt on.....whatcha' got cookin'?
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2014
    Denns1989 likes this.
  7. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,263

    Atwater Mike

    Well..."The beauty Queen might have a hairy bush...but the lowly 'runners-up' shave it." (and it didn't make 'em win!)
    volvobrynk likes this.
  8. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,542


    Very cool car and a great story, thanks for sharing. I like your plan so far.

    As for the tires, if it were me, I'd buy 4 new 6.70 bias whitewall tires as close to the ones on the car now and mount them onto the original wheels. I understand that big rear tires are the trend and how it would be an easy to change "improvement", but to put it in perspective, every 50's or 60's build that got updated in the 80's or 90's, the owners thought their little changes were improvements. Everything you change that isn't a maintenance type direct replacement takes the car a little further away from it's original build, and that's what makes this car so cool as-is.
  9. Your perspective above really struck a chord with me, that explains it perfectly, thankyou - a little change here & there separately are no big deal, but as a whole are a big deal. I know it's my car & I can do what I like, but when I read your comment it got me to remember that "feeling" I had when I first seen this car & I want others to be able to feel that as well, after all what makes it special is how it sits right now & being able to say it sits exactly as it did when built/parked (aside from maintenance) feels right to me.
    Like I was recently telling someone, the only way this find could have been better was for it to be painted a medium blue, all white interior with blue piping, chrome reverse steelies & finned heads, multi carb with lake headers (that's my version of perfection) But in this unique case, keeping the car as found & not personalizing it is for the better & just feels like the right thing to do.
    I appreciate everyones feedback, I think I have a small sample of hot rod history, and enjoy sharing with people who "get it"
  10. Cusco
    Joined: Nov 10, 2010
    Posts: 63

    from Europe


    Amazing story and thread. You are really respect Hot Rod tradition. In a way you live my dream. Your daughter is so cute and beautiful. Enjoy every moment with her and with your A.

    Enjoy it in good health.
    I'm looking forward for more pics.

    Best Regards
    Gdcast and Denns1989 like this.
  11. Weezy1930
    Joined: Nov 21, 2013
    Posts: 117

    from OHIO

    I think I'm going to steal Snoopy's door panel pattern for Weezy.

    Regarding your exhaust, that is pretty funky what's going on there with Snoopy's convoluted pipe routing. Not sure if lake pipes fit the spirit of car quite right though either. Maybe. For yet another idea, check out CRUZR and his 1931 coupe. It's a very classic hot rod. He's running duel pipes out the back with nice but subtle angled cutouts peeking out on both sides just between his front and rear fame wishbone mounts. It's both very tasteful and understated. He capped them with lake pipe style block-offs. I'm going to do the same thing. Just another option for you to think about.
    Denns1989 likes this.
  12. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,588

    from Denmark

    When it comes to building an exhaust that dosen't stand out, would be too take it of, and build a new one that looks like the one you have, when it comes to the route used now.
    If you do it your self, and use a MIG welder, it should be possible to make somthing that keeps the look that fits the car, but dont look broken.

    Everything that is broken, drags the car down.
    But scratches, small dents and Worn seats etc. Tells a story of a wonderful life.
    Denns1989 and Robert Crosse like this.
  13. Got a call from electric rebuilder, genny needed one bearing, aside from that starter & genny have been cleaned up inside (not out), gone thru & good to go, pick them up tomorrow!

    Now for some newbie questions, I know my wifes all original 1927 Model & takes straight # 30 motor oil (non-detergent), I assume that my flat head originally took the same ? I'm aware of the non-detergent /detergent battle, but considering I don't have a filter & the motor isn't all new I think I'll stay with non-detergent unless someone has some compelling reason not to, also I guess I will have to use a ZDDP additive as I'm not aware of a non-detergent "raceoil" like the VR that I use in my MG's..

    Next question(s) - tranny & rear axle - 80-90 gear oil or that molasses stuff my wife's T takes ??, coolant - I assume just normal stuff ? & what about grease ? what ever is in my gun ? & then brake fluid I assume normal Dot 3 or I could go with the synthetic stuff because all will be new ? rear axle is 47 Merc, tranny is 35 ford & motor is a 49/50 8BA...

    I don't want a huge detour here, but I checked & see a bunch of opinions, just want to know what is a good "stock/everyday" replacement is for the fluids in my car.
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2014
  14. You will get a ton of opinions on this one!
    Here's mine.
    My engine in my '31(avitar) is a stock Merc engine with new bearings and rings, and a simple valve job.
    It's been a driver like regular car driver on and off for 10 years, about 45,000 miles.
    I started with conventional 10w-30, went to conventional 20w-50 after the first oil change.
    I have no filter, run 3-4,000 miles between changes. Running easy it is using a quart every 1,000 miles.
    Get on it it will use more.
    some leakage. My opinion, detergent is good, keeps crap in suspension.
    Every other fluid, trans, 38 top loader with 46 car gears, rear end 4:11 banjo even shocks, Model A front and MG armstrong rear, even the F-100 steering box, I use 90-140 Castrol gear oil.
    No problems with anything, and this car is running year round.
    Yes it's starting to blow-by a little!
    That's my $.02
    Denns1989 likes this.
  15. crob1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 57

    from Colorado

    I'm sitting here in awe and green with envy! What an awesome thread and story!
    Denns1989 likes this.
  16. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 561

    from NC

    Great story!
    Denns1989 likes this.
  17. Robert Crosse
    Joined: Sep 10, 2014
    Posts: 152

    Robert Crosse
    from WNY

    Just what I do....53 Vic, safety wire still on the hood hinges.
    Use Amsoil products for all lubrication, full synthetic 20-50 ZRod, Waterproof Marine Grease, SuperShift Type F, Severe Gear 75-90. Series 500 DOT 3.
    303 Aerospace Protectant for all things UV susceptible, (rubber, plastic & vinyl)
    Denns1989 likes this.
  18. Bubba1955
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 463


    I'm really diggin' this thread. You're doing a great job being true to it's original build.
    I think if you're going to be driving this great car around, especially with your family, the one thing I'd suggest adding would be lap and shoulder belts. With a little ingenuity you could maybe come up with a stealthy install.
    After the tragedy in Arizona last month I doubt any HAMBer would fault you for that change.
    Denns1989 and Weezy1930 like this.
  19. I drive an f-100, and i would recommend the steering box in any car. if theyre rebuilt and set up right they steer like a dream.
  20. Really cool car man! However, that frame is a mess. If it were me, i'd build a new frame for it and use all the old parts.. refurb everything and keep the body / outside exactly as it is. That way it looks old, but at least its safe. And that frame.. is not safe imo.

    We would never be allowed to have that on the road here. Our rego authorities would fall over backwards if we tried to rego that here.
    ravedodger likes this.
  21. Absolutely great story, good luck on your project!!!
    Denns1989 likes this.
  22. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,197


    I'm enjoying watching this thread, thanks for posting the oil pan video. That's some yucky stuff in there!
  23. drtybiker
    Joined: Mar 11, 2014
    Posts: 303

    from florida

    Here is a tip for draing that gunky stuff I use on motorcycles that have sat a long while with oil in them I put a hot plate under them for a few hours , make sure to use a low setting you do not want to melt seals or schorch anything it really makes a difference

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
  24. See #223 & #224 above. Here's my $.02 also. I have a stock Model A and am in a Model A club.
    There is a constant "lively" discussion about lubes, detergent, non-detergent, "modern" gear lube, 600W, et all.
    I use detergent oil. I use 85W - 90 gear lubes. I ask the guys in the club who has experienced failures because of using modern lubes.....NO ONE! So my opinion is, use whatever is appropriate lubes for your climate.
    Denns1989 likes this.
  25. noyo55
    Joined: Apr 25, 2006
    Posts: 77


    Any one who says"nice guys finish last" needs to read this thread!!!
  26. Thanks for the reply's as to what lubrication to use, so basically if it's considered oil - use it :) That makes it easy !

    Busy weekend, not much time on Snewpee, but I did get the speedo cable length measured for the guy who's making up a new one, got some sizes for fan belts & one bigger job - got the gas tank removed & emptied, only about a gallon of 44 year old gas in it, quite a unique stink to that !, started to clean out - going to treat with POR 15 gas tank coating.

    I found a video of the morning when I went to pick up Snewpee, thought I would share as we all like pictures & video's !

    Hotrodmyk and volvobrynk like this.
  27. and finally got the pics off my phone to show the gas tank removed & also slowly starting to stretch the top back into place...

    20140921_182048.jpg 20140921_182154.jpg
    a little progress...
    Woogeroo, dana barlow and volvobrynk like this.
  28. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,263

    Atwater Mike

    Wash that top with Palmolive dish detergent, hot water; Scrub it on the clean driveway. Rinse with hot water, and IN THE SUN, install the top. It will be pliable, snap back on with some tugging, and stretch tightly when it dries.

    Don't put high detergent oil in the engine! The detergents will wash out carbon deposits after some miles, and the engine will smoke.
    Whether it had high detergent or not, the best bet is 30 wt. non detergent!
    "But, you never hurt anything by cleaning it..."
    Probably most things. Nothing but a carbonized, sealed engine...
    Woogeroo and Denns1989 like this.
  29. Russt29
    Joined: Jan 11, 2012
    Posts: 47

    from Phoenix,Az

    Just a quick note on the lubricants. Haven't seen it mentioned specifically, detergent in motor is designed to clean and keep in suspension dirt and deposits to allow removal by the oil filter. Early non oil filtered engines ran non detergent oil to allow these particles to settle in the oil pan and be drained when oil is changed and not cycled through the motor causing wear. At least that's the way It was explained to me by a sta lube sales rep back in another life as a parts counterman at an auto parts store.
    Denns1989 likes this.
  30. I'm hoping we get a couple more hot sunny days here so I can get that top in place, I did the same when installing a new top on my MG, good idea about the dish soap & hot water, I'll give that a try.

    I run 30 wt non-detergent in the wife's Model T, so I will use the same, makes life easier - non-detergent oil for Snewpee's motor it will be. Have gaskets for the pan cleanout plate on order.

    Got the wheel bearing & seal part #'s off another thread, local bearing supplier has them all ordered up for me as of today... stocking up for my winter weekends, just hope to have it running on it's own gas tank/coolant, battery etc. & drive it back & forth before the snow fly's to see basic function, then I can deal with the rest as the snow piles up outside...average winter of 126 inches of snow around here...Mid December to Mid March - all I can do is be in the garage !

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