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SnapperHead Coupe - 1934 Frame Build - Part11: 'C' Notching the rear

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bored&Stroked, Feb 28, 2010.

  1. Worked on the frame over the weekend - to install 'C Notches' for rear suspension clearance. My frame rails didn't have notches from ASC - and I've been planning to add them all along.

    1) Notch Material - Go With 1/4" : I was going to bend up a piece of 10-gauge material (same thickness as the frame rails, but decided to use two 1/4" C-Notches that I purchased from the 'Welder Series' guys. After thinking about it, I think the thicker material is a good thing - makes the notch area stronger . . . as you're taking a pretty good 'bite' out of the frame. Also, having the 1/4" thick notches gave me enough material to radius the ends and edges nicely - the end result really looks formed, not fabbed.

    2) 1/2" Plate Stiffener - Welded Inside the Frame Rail: When I originally started the frame - before I put the boxing plates in, I bent a piece of 1/2" thick material to weld into the outside frame rail - right above the C-Notch area. I welded it in the the frame and also had 4 rosette welds on the outside. This is important - it really strengthens the C-Notch area . . . I'd highly recommend something similar in any notched frame.


    3) Measure Once Again - Using the Spring Hanger Bracket: I grabbed one of my 1/2" spring hanger brackets and sort of mocked things up - just to make sure the notch was in the correct location. I'd originally marked the boxing plates with the location - wanted to double check.

    SpringHanger copy.jpg

    4) Cutout the Notches:
    I marked the rails with a black felt pen and used a plasma cutter to do the initial cut out. Then I used a carbide rotary file in my air grinder to finish the cutout, get the radius exactly right and the fitment the way I wanted it. Notice the 1/2" stiffener on the outside of the frame rail. The 1/4" notch plate butts up against the stiffener - keeps things as strong as possible.

    Cutout1 copy.jpg

    CutOut3 copy.jpg

    5) Tig Welded in Place - Used 160 Amps: Wanted to make sure I had a lot of heat to ensure a good penetration of the weld into the 1/4" notch plate. I beveled the C-Notch edges so there was plenty of gap for the weld to fill - as I would finish grind the outside of the rails.

    TackedinPlace copy.jpg

    OutsideWelded copy.jpg

    Will post up above - the finished results . . .
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2010
  2. 1) Finishing: I used an air grinder and a rotary file to radius all the edges.

    Also, I wanted the inside of the frame rail to show the 'edge' of the C-Notch to match the frame 'step boxing'. I hung the C-Notch material past the boxing plate to align with the edge of the frame rail. When I shaped the edge, I did so to make the remaining edge about the same width as the frame rail (about 1/8"). It makes it look as if it was formed when the rail was formed.

    I liked the way they came out - they don't look like they were grafted in at all. I'm pleased as this is the first time I've done C-Notches . . . wasn't too dramatic.

    Total time for both sides - about 12 hours. (I know - I'm slow :eek: )

    Finished1 copy.jpg

    Finished2 copy.jpg

    Finished3 copy.jpg

    Finished4 copy.jpg

    Finished5 copy.jpg
  3. Jkustom
    Joined: Oct 8, 2002
    Posts: 1,681


    Nice job, looks clean.. Like it belongs there.. Well played!
  4. 38FLATTIE
    Joined: Oct 26, 2008
    Posts: 4,350

    from Colorado

    No, you can't tell at all. It looks great!

  5. Thanks guys . . . pretty simple stuff, but sometimes just seeing how somebody else does something helps somebody out. I try to share just about everything I'm doing -- might help the next guy who is hacking away on his frame like I am!
  6. Really nice work.
  7. Nice work Dale....looks great !

    Check your email...


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