i HAVE A FED THAT WAS BUILT WITH A SMALL BLOCK. With all my bigger is better ideas what chassis changes would have to be made to go to a Big Bock Chevy. Thanks for any input Blender
Hey blender, before someone lights you up: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44274 Read rule #6... Back to your question: Depending on what type of motor mounts you have, you may need a new front motor plate and drives, if any. The engine is about 2 1/2" longer, IIRC, so plan accordingly with fuel lines, cables, etc. Also, you are likely adding about 200 lb in the middle of the chassis, so the first pass will let you know if you'll need a little more vertical support in the frame. I would paint the bottom of the rails with water based house paint (easy to remove), and see if it bottoms out in the shutdown area.
Cool thanks for the guidance on rule # 6. I am new to these things so not real sure how everything is suppose work, but I will do my best. I new about the front motor plate I just didn't know if I was going to move the upright from the frame. I'm working in the shop now trying to check out the line up and ground clearance. Thanks
My FED had a SBC; this was also a 1964 chassis; very short at 120" W.B., but it was just a Bracket Car, and did real well. The guy I sold the rolling chassis to went with a 396 BBC, and all he did was build spacers to make up for the difference in block length, and make new front mount plates. The car was wide enough that the starter still had plenty of room for the bigger diameter flexplate, and staggered bolt pattern starter motor. But, he also used zoomie headers, and to low of a stall converter; looked good, but never ran right; never even got into the 10's with it. He would also do neutral drops (even though illegal) to try and make up for the low stall converter; until he snapped the input shaft on the Glide. So, as long as your chassis is wide enough for starter motor clearance, the rest is easy. Butch/56sedandelivery.
Bolt the motor up to the plate and slide a metal plate under the snout and use a jack screw to tilt the motor. Now bolt up the trans with coupler to the back of the motorplate and raise or lower the motor till the coupler engages freely. Make some half tubes that fit the upper frame rail and add hoseclamp into possision. Make some aluminum ears that mount off the waterpump bosses and fit the half tube. weld on some tabs to the half tube and drill for mounting bolts. The extra weight will not be that big of an issue.
Hey Blender post some pics of your car, Here's a link to some of the other dragsters being buildt http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=761686 Tim Jones
I ran a FED back in the day. Changed from a small block to big block with a spacer on the front engine plate. Everything else, mount wise, was the same. A custom pan was required. A short wheelbase Logghe chassis out of Detroit. One problem that did happen on the first full power pass. When the chute popped, the harmonic balancer dug into the strip surface and pealed the outer ring off. There after the motor got a small balancer.
Move the front plate mounts approx 2" farther forward or spacer it.....adjust springs/torsion bars....have fun! Big block is same from bellhousing to side mount centerline but approx. 2" longer passed the side mounts. Least that's my findings on the swap in my coupe....exwestracer beat me to it!
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