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Small Block Chevy Venting Question.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Billy the kid, May 29, 2006.

  1. HelmuthBrothers
    Joined: Oct 11, 2007
    Posts: 786

    HelmuthBrothers
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Thanks for the input everyone. Been a lot of help. At this point to keep the pcv system working but still utilizing some kind of separator or catch can, since I don't have any kind of filter in my current system only a baffle, Id like to try out running a line from the fitting I have in the back of the intake down to a mini oil separator from Jegs or catch can, then back up to possibly the rear vacuum port of the QJet carb instead of the front vacuum port with that chevelle style inline pcv hose. Instead of running a hose or hardline around the side and front of the carb back into that front vacuum port. It would be way easier to run the line into the back of the carb. If that vacuum port in the rear of the carb isn't good, which I don't know why it wouldnt be, I could drill and tap a hole in the carb adapter plate I'm using as well.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  2. Hey, if ya don't want to remove the intake to stuff the steel wool into the baffle area. I wonder if you could just remove the fitting on the intake and stuff the steel wool down the hole? Just a thought.
     
  3. Grommet part number for hole when removing draft tube and replacing with a PCV valve is NAPA BK# 630-1075, or Dorman/Help #42048
    Use 90 degree PCV valve- Standard #V178, Ac #CV774C, or Fram #FV184
    Use vented oil filler cap on the front oil fill tube
    Use screw in brass nipple for base of carb to accept hose from PCV valve.
     
  4. 1Nimrod
    Joined: Dec 11, 2018
    Posts: 574

    1Nimrod
    Member

    I know it's been about 3 years since you talk about your PCV oil problem but I was wondering if you ever fixed the oil coming into your carb from the PCV ? I was wondering how your baffle was made on the under side of you intake manifold? Was it ~-=-~ offset layered? In the factory baffles the oil would get cought on the little baffle rails and drip back down because the baffle rails are layered and off set. Is your "Homemade Baffle" made with 2 layers or 3 layers welded one on top of the other with a small space in between each layer and offset just on the ends so the vapor makes a "S" shape path as it draws through your homemade baffle? Is that how you made your homemade baffle? My thinking is that the oil has No Way to Drip Back Down off of Or out of your homemade baffle and is there for being sucked up into the PCV and into your Q-jet instead of dripping off of the baffle! Maybe copper brillo pad would help like the other gentleman said. Or maybe drilling holes into your Homemade Baffle so the oil could have a way to drip out? I think the problem is in the way the baffle was made!
    Just my two ¢.02
    From 1Nimrod
     
  5. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,144

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

  6. pnevells
    Joined: Sep 5, 2008
    Posts: 546

    pnevells
    Member

    just saying , simple is good for a race car setup
    breathers.jpeg
     
    UNCLECHET, 1Nimrod and lothiandon1940 like this.
  7. Splitbudaba
    Joined: Dec 30, 2014
    Posts: 752

    Splitbudaba
    Member

    Anybody ever use an aircraft air oil separator. Vacuum source thru the separator, then to crankcase. Oil port on separator back to crankcase or catch can! Small Cessnas had one and it worked well! Google the air/oil separator using Continental or Lycoming, or in Aircraft Spruce catalog. Many new styles for homebuilt aircraft.
     
  8. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,144

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    1Nimrod and pnevells like this.
  9. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Lot of Al, round these here parts!
     
  10. Tri-power37
    Joined: Feb 10, 2019
    Posts: 510

    Tri-power37
    Member

    These OMC valve covers are corvette valve covers with out the corvette letters in the center section . I hid the pcv along the intake side of the valve cover. There is a baffle on the inside of the valve cover and it works like it should.
    30981408-DBE7-4245-800D-A93C7503ADA5.jpeg
    69C10408-35E1-4B80-8394-224571969DC9.jpeg
    2529E3FA-751A-4D43-A037-6BFB97936ED3.jpeg
    F00C77A1-705B-4BCB-AA8E-7016276FD3C6.jpeg
     
    1Nimrod and Shadow Creek like this.
  11. 1Nimrod
    Joined: Dec 11, 2018
    Posts: 574

    1Nimrod
    Member

    I have read about this before here on the HAMB and I'm sorry I can't remember who it was that wrote about it before but he had lots of good ideals with what your talking about.
    1Nimorod
     
  12. Splitbudaba
    Joined: Dec 30, 2014
    Posts: 752

    Splitbudaba
    Member

    I’m an old Air Force aircraft mechanic with tons of recip experience, including two years on 3350 cubic inch radials. Talk about oil control, a tight 3350 used about 7 gallons in an hour flight. Granted it was in a Skyraider doing practice strafe runs and missile and bomb low level high speed at Hurlburt Field back in the day!!!! Anyway air oil separators work great. Some even have a quick drain on the can to help you monitor your true oil consumption. And some are plumbed back to the sump! Easy!!!
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2019
    Roothawg and 1Nimrod like this.

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