I may have gotten my self into a pickle. A friend of mine wanted me to build him a 327 for his old school Kustom 50 Ford shoebox. It's been years since I've built an engine for someone but I agreed. He had a mid-60's block with the large hole in the back next to the distributor and he wanted to use a road-draft tube because he had a set of clean Corvette valve covers with no holes and an intake with the oil fill tube in it. I convinced him that a PCV was a better way to go(for a bunch of reasons) and we found the tee-pee cap that goes over that hole in the block and I installed an inline PCV valve and a breather oil cap. Good, Right? Well, I've since found that there should have been a baffle mounted under the intake so the PCV would not draw in liquid oil. I don't think it's doing that but I'm concerned that it might. Is there anything I can do short of fabbing up a baffle to mount under the tee-pee to prevent oil from getting sucked up? I really don't want to pull the intake now that it's in the car and running. And I have not found that breather can available anyway. Oh, and I don't think I could get him to change valve covers either.
It might seem like a headache to pull the intake and install the soup can, but it's the right way to do it. Baffle's can be had from the Corvette supply house's. I think Paragon has them for about 60 bucks. Also look on E-Bay, you might come across one there.
If the manifold has to come off, I also install a valley tray like the (Milodon 3261) to keep oil mist off the intake manifold.
I own two cars with '57 283 engines, both have pcv valves between the rear engine port next to the distributor and the base of the carburetor. I used a pcv valve listed for a '62 Chevy 283. As others have stated you do need to install the separator can in the lifter valley. If you don't have the can the engine will suck oil into the intake. This is a picture of the engine in my roadster with the pcv valve.
The Jalopy Journal
