Hot Rods Small Block Chevy in 1932 Ford water pump clearance issues

So, I had a chassis built by a reputable shop , looks great, all TIG welded, I was pretty happy with it when I picked it up. When I first went over the project with them, I asked specifically if it was possible to run a SBC in a 32 without cutting up the original firewall, and still have room for everything while running a radiator in the stock location, and a full hood. He said it would be tight , but yes doable. I took them my trans (Tremec TKO) and they said they didn't need the engine because they had a mock up block to use. Today I finally got the trans & engine married and stuck it in the chassis to find a pretty major water pump to Radiator clearance issue. I have a long water pump on it now, but even with a short, I don't see any way it would work, Even the electric ones are just as deep. Does anybody make a really short pump & pulleys ? what are my options ? I really don't want to have to grind off the pretty new engine & trans mounts and do that all over........ Plus, the Firewall clearance is perfect. Help !

 

I've done it , but it's tight.
Definitely going to need a short pump & a fan with pitch to the rear only.
Maybe a water pump riser would help too.

 

X2 short water pump.

 

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but after measuring, I don't think a short pump will be short enough.

 

Put a short pump in, it's tight but it will fit. Depending on how low the engine sits, PeteE is correct, a riser pump may help center the fan. The electric fan and shroud that Walker radiator recommends is your best bet to keeping it cool but not necessarily HAMB correct. It will also fit. Think about a smaller than HEI distributer, the HEI PROBABLY wont fit, with out "nudging" the fire wall. Bill

 

When I had my roadster chassis built (friends shop) I had most everything except the hood, I asked where I might have clearance issues, he said the usual suspects, the radiator and the firewall, he suggested a one inch increase in front crossmember location and said just have Rootlieb built the hood one inch over stock length, glad I did as the Steve Long radiator was ordered with electric fan, not my idea but still glad he did.
When I picked it up the motor mounts were just tacked in and I asked why, he said you will thank me, he was right, even with the extra one inch, a short water pump and small body distributor the motor mounts needed to be moved slightly.
These cars are generally considered a "paint by numbers" build but there are so many variables component wise that a quarter inch can make all the difference.

 

An early Corvette short pump will gain you a little bit more room.


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Pete & Jake's has the instructions on motor mount measurements that you need.

 

by wicarnut posted Aug 24, 2013 at 12:12 AM

by wicarnut posted Aug 24, 2013 at 12:03 AM

Here's pics of mine, had alum short water pump, HEI distributor, electric fan, had to clearance plastic fan housing some for WP pulley, not really enough room for a fan and it would be at bottom of radiator using a small diameter fan blade. I Don't have a pic with better angle to show how tight it was. This setup cooled a premium gas Speed Shop HP crate 355 and cooled it well even in hot weather with A/C running, exception was if I had hood side panels on and in a traffic stalled out cruised situation it would get pretty warm, I would run without the side the panels if I knew I was going to be in that type of situation and it would stay at around 200 deg or less. HorsePower makers heat, the milder your engine, the less cooling issues IMO. I know this not a true HAMB solution, but most of the 32's I've ever looked at ran a similar setup, without the A/C on, it ran cool enough with side panels on. I had a 29 HighBoy Roadster without hood, side panels. A/C, it ran fine/cool with that small diameter mechanical fan at bottom of radiator, Walker radiator, again a HP 355, I was asked many times if that little fan worked ? pics in my album. I drove both of theses cars over 20K miles without any cooling problems. I hope this helps you and a side note, a few guys I know that tried the raised up WP deal were not happy with them took them off their engines, did not cool properly. Good Luck, Enjoy, Git R Dun

 

Time to put grill shell on with radiator (there are thick ones and thin ones) with hood and side panels and go from there. A tape measure and imagination isn't enough.

 

And heavy ones!

 

You need a zips riser, you will need a Chevy 6 cylinder water pump and a good quality fan.

The zip's moves the water pump up about 5" and it places the mechanical fan in the center of the radiator, you also gain room.

I've used this on several '32 Fords.HRP

 

You have to mock it up, guessing does not apply....

 

short pump

 

If you ordered it to fit and clear from a reputable shop I'd go back to them and ask exactly what parts were used for mock up so you could get the same exact pieces to run. If that don't get you the space you need why would you be the one to cut things up and start moving stuff around to make it fit? Isn't that the reason you pay someone to do the hard stuff for ya?

 

DDDenny, how deep/thick is that fan at the motor?

 

This would get you a few inches but,......

 

Agreed. Maybe the shop should add a mock up water pump to their mock up block....

 

Short pump, no spacer and a 56 Chevy metal fan. Fits great! Being new at this I mounted the engine with the bottom of the block even with the frame rails, getting the fan more in the center of the radiator. Down side was the fact I had to fab up a floor tunnel. But it all worked out, the tunnel gave me a great place to mount my e brake handle.

 

The firewall looks like it's been cut/modified. HRP

 

I was playing with a plum-bob and tape last night, I'm going to find some cardboard to tape on the radiator and play with it, after I remove the pump. I plan on having to use an electric fan. I have the heavier Walker radiator.

 

Needs a short water pump

 

Just added the bump outs to accept the steel front mounts on each side. And yes it’s fiberglass! Oh yuk!

 

Know that you blew up photo sure enough.

 

with Zips you can , you have to play with fan size & your motor angle , when installing Rad & shell last to install, you will be 1/2-1 inch from Rad

 

Well, I got a short Water pump today, and mocked it up with the center hood hinge piece, and it looks like it's going to fit (Barely !) Thanks for the help everyone ! Now I just need to figure out the best way to deal with having the lower radiator outlet on the drivers side, when the water pump outlet is on the passenger side..............

 

I think I would look into a different radiator!!

 

Your local radiator shop should be able to move the lower hose to the right side.

Phil

 

if you go with a zip it will move fan to center of rad , & move the bottom blade away from rad , you can run a bigger mechanical fan & gain more Clarence
I run a zip on my big inch SB & turn over 6,000 rpm , No problems with the 6 cylinder pump, a easy fix to move bottom inlet , just leave driver side in & cap off. Walkers not cheap so I use a flatty style radiator now because I will be run different engine combos

 

^^^^^ Just to add about mechanical fans. A stock GM type will have pitch forward of fan hub. To pick up another inch a flex fan will get you more room. If that style is an option you'll accept.