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Sluggish 235 from go!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 54LedSled, Apr 9, 2013.

  1. 54LedSled
    Joined: Mar 11, 2011
    Posts: 362

    54LedSled
    Member

    I recently changed out my fuel line and added a factory glass inline filter just before my stock carb. now I am noticing she is a real dog from a stop...sluggishly moving up to around 30-35 mph (and thats pedal to the floor??) Once she gets there she starts to be a lot more responsive (between 40mph -70mph), I can feel her pull more (better throttle response). What is causing my 235 to be soooo slow in the 0 to 30mph range. Not enough fuel? Too much fuel? My timing looks good. 1954 chevy 235/ Powerglide... 3:55 gears. <!--POLLS--><!--FILES--><!--SIGNATURE-->
     
  2. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 7,286

    flynbrian48
    Member

    Uh, maybe because it's a 235 with a power glide? Seriously, is your fuel pump good? Plugged line behind the filter? You should filter between fuel pump and tank, especially if you havent' had the tank out and cleaned. Rusty fuel line, or deteriorated rubber sections of line? Bent or kinked line? Choke on? Your timing "looks good"? What's that mean? Had a timing light on it? Points gapped right? Coil OK? Plugs OK? Compression OK?
    Did you change the line and filter because it wasn't running right to begin with?

    You've got some basic things to look at, happily, they're simple cars.

    Good luck,

    Brian
     
  3. Is the filter directional? Many I've had experience with have had an arrow indicating flow.

    Bob
     
  4. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 7,429

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

    A 235 shouldn't really be "sluggish", powerglide or otherwise...lol. Doesn't sound like a fuel flow issue, especially since it runs good at higher speeds. Sounds more like a timing or timing advance issue. If the timing advance is working as it should, the whole distributor should rotate a few degrees as you rev the engine. Check that. If it isn't, make sure your vacuum advance vacuum line is hooked up and not leaking. A little spray here and there with carb cleaner, and if the engine momentarily increases rpms, you've got a leak. Or it might be that the mechanics of the vacuum advance are stuck, or the diaphram is ruptured, etc. You should be able to manually rotate the distributor a little. And of course, check initial timing. If you don't have a timing light, you should be able to get 'er real close just by ear. You want it to where it has good pep without spark knock or bucking. Good luck.
     

  5. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 7,429

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

    Maybe check your points too, that they're clean and bright and gapped correctly.
     
  6. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,485

    Hellfish
    Member

    If ALL you did was change the lines and filter, AND it was running fine before, then maybe the new lines allowed something to travel from the tank to the pump?

    How does it idle?

    How long had it been between your last drive and the change/current condition?

    Did you change all the lines, just the rubber lines, just before or after the pump, etc?
    Did you use the right size lines? Right size/style filter? Is the filter clean? Did you bump anything (like accidentally disconnect a vacuum line, distributor hold down properly tightened, trans connections, carb linkage/vac line, etc)?
     
  7. your little filter in carb is the big flat part in???
    WRONG DIRECTION ON CERAMIC WIL DO THAT
    PAPER MAYBEE THROW THE RUBBER VALVE AWAY
     
  8. Suicide-D
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 264

    Suicide-D
    Member
    from Texas

    My 235 was like that and it was a blown head gasket.
     

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