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Slightly off topic-Fuel Cell rollover valve question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dodgerodder, Jul 26, 2006.

  1. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    I have a kind of silly question. I have a fuel cell with a roll-over valve on top of the fuel cell. The rollover valve has a #8an fitting on it. Whats the proper way to plumb/run the vent line? I'm not sure where the vent line needs to be routed(above or below the fuel cell?), and what to terminate the vent line with(if anything).

    I know fuel cells are not a "traditional" approach, but I figured somebody must know the right way to plumb it. Thanks in advance for the help guys!
    Dan
     
  2. racer5c
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 2,218

    racer5c
    Member

    Run the line up as high as you can above the tank then do a 180 and run it as low as you can below the tank, this way if the valve were to fail it really lessens the odds of fuel leaking.
     
  3. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    You can also get a ping pong ball check valve. :)
     
  4. dragrcr50
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,865

    dragrcr50
    Member

    the roll over valve is a steel ball in a cage that seals off when upside down, when right side up the ball is down and it vents properly, just run the vent tube above the cell at keast 3 ir 4 inches and then make a 180 down and out side of vehicle.. :cool:
     


  5. I had the same thing and could smell fumes in the garage, not strong, but noticeable.

    Cured by:
    Getting a Japanese pickup (Toyota I think) steel charcoal cannister - they're small and have a built in bracket, paint it black and it disappears from view.
    (Mine is somewhat exposed, but in 13 years only one guy noticed it.)
    (The cannister I got was in the left front corner under the hood.)

    Plumb the vent line up high as you can in the trunk then go down and connect it to the charcoal cannister.

    Go forward with another line.
    Somewhere in this line install an Earls screen type inline filter. (Mine's about middle of frame equi-distant between wheels fwiw.)
    Use the one with stainless screen (looks like window screen) and not the one with the ceramic filter.
    What you're doing here is imitating the anti-flashback deal that goes in the acetylene hose of a gas welding rig.

    From there, go forward with another line and plumb it into the base of the air cleaner.

    The fumes don't seem to reach the carb area and if they did and if there was an engine backfire - done a few of those - the flame would not travel back to the fuel cell.

    Overkill perhaps, using both the charcoal cannister and inline filter, but I worry about fires and inside the fuel cell is not the place to have one....
     
  6. Brad54
    Joined: Apr 15, 2004
    Posts: 6,015

    Brad54
    Member
    from Atl Ga

    On Power Tour, I saw a guy who didn't run the vent high enough before making the bend to go down.
    Say your vent tube is at the front (engine) end of the car, and comes off the top of the tank and goes straight up for a couple inches. Then it makes the bend. If you're sitting on a hill or filling your gas tank, and the rear (back bumper) side of the tank is higher than the bend, you'll drain your gas until you lose enough that the fluid is no longer touching the top of the tank. This could be a gallon or more. The car I saw dump gas wasn't on much of a hill. Remember, if you've got a big cell, you only have to tip the back of the tank up a few degrees for it to be an inch or two higher than the front of the tank.

    Doesn't come close to answering the original question, but I thought it was good advice to add to a fuel cell post.
    -Brad
     
  7. fish3495
    Joined: Apr 25, 2006
    Posts: 111

    fish3495
    Member

    I talked to a guy with a keg gas tank. He said he used a PCV valve on the vent tube for rollover protection. We didn't get into detail. Anybody heard of that?
     
  8. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,274

    SinisterCustom
    Member

    I'd run a loop in the line as well.
     
  9. bwiencek
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 325

    bwiencek
    Member

    Up to the cage then down beside the cell and hang a small fuel filter on the end to act as an air filter (I race dirt track and sucking dirt in everything is always a possibility....)

    That said - the charcoal canister is a great idea and really saves the ozone from the evaporative emissions of an 'open' fuel container...
     
  10. wyatt
    Joined: Aug 1, 2005
    Posts: 77

    wyatt
    Member

    i have vented caps.....no vents, got a cell and the vent filter is mounted to the vent/ check valve fitting. high test smells best...
     
  11. lostforawhile
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,160

    lostforawhile
    Member

    was wondering on updates on this from anyone? didn't want to start a brand new thread when one existed. using the canister too, with fuel prices as high as they are gas evaporating out of the bowl or tank is money blowing in the wind basically . i'm figuring out a way to use the vaccume type fuel shut off valves for minibikes to vent the carbs,close when the engine is off. open when it's running and a canister to catch and reburn the fuel vapors, fuel is fuel and i hate wasting money on it evaporating
     

  12. x2 for the loop works like a champ
     
  13. Tingler I've never seen it happen. I know alot of the roundy round guys belch flames out the exhaust.

    As for terminateing the vent line I've always used one of those cheap in-line fuel filters. All it does is keep you from sucking dust back up when the cell cools off.
     
  14. InDaShop
    Joined: Aug 15, 2004
    Posts: 2,795

    InDaShop
    Member
    from Houston

    For terminating, lot of different ways.
    -Cheapest and easiest is a Chevy Valvecover PCV valve in the end of the hose for a one way vent.
    -Vented Catchcan
    -Into a fuelfilter (used like a catchcan) like the FRAM G6567
    [​IMG]



    For routing I use #1 below in my race car if that helps.


    1. Route the line three sides then down.
    [​IMG]

    2. Route the line following the FATS system (Fuel Air Trap System)
    From the vent/valve the hose extends to the left past the left side of the fuel tank on a slight angle past horizontal (See reference to horizontal and vertical reference lines.).
    Once past the end of the tank, the fuel line is routed upward, again not quite vertical, but angled slightly.
    Again the hose is routed to the right, completely over and past the right end of the fuel tank (Not quite horizontally).
    And then lastly the hose is routed downward to a level close to (or below) the bottom of the fuel tank.
    Hose routing is vital, for this routing is what makes the FATS design work.
    Again, hose routing attributes are:
    · Left-to-Right or Right-to-Left hose routing must always extend Past the Sides of the Fuel Tank.
    · Vertical and Horizontal hose routing must not be square, but rather sloped so as to allow any fuel in the lines to drain back to the tank.
    · Hose should terminate as close to the bottom of (or below) the fuel tank
    [​IMG]
     

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