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Slick Sand Tips (Please let me know!)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1959apache, Oct 14, 2010.

  1. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,759


    Hey everyone,

    Just about to get into the phase of doing body work on my 59 chevy truck and was wondering if anyone that has used Slick Sand before had any tips or techniques??? Is there a better product? I am fairly certain that 1 gallon should cover the truck easily. Please let me know what you guys think. I am going to try something new (slick sand or an equivalent) rather than using just i see through layer of body filler and stuff like that. :)eek: body filler will only be used to ensure that the body is straight I will not cake it on!!) Please let me know if you guys have any tips or concerns... is it worth getting (worth the price)? I would like some feedback so let me know! Thanks!
  2. j_johnson
    Joined: Sep 15, 2008
    Posts: 119

    from Iowa

    I just used it for the first time on my oldsmobile. I wasnt sure how it was going to work out but it worked well for me. One big thing to remember is your tip size on the spray gun. Need at least a 2 mm tip. I didnt have one so I bought a cheapo one from menards, worked well. The stuff sprays on really thick and smells like fiberglass. It dried with a lot of orange peel for me in less then perfect painting conditions, which didnt matter because it helped me see where I had been with the block sander later on. I would also protect anything around the area if your not spraying in a booth because the stuff is nearly impossible to remove, even with laquer thinner, and the floor got sticky.
  3. Triggerman
    Joined: Nov 18, 2006
    Posts: 578

    from NorCal

    Slick Sand is essentially like spraying polyester resin on your body. Thats why is smelled like fiberglas j_johnson. I used it one fiberglas one time but for all other bodies I spray either urethane of epoxy primers.
  4. hotflint
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 310


    Slick sand is not a primer, Slick sand is a polyester resin (spray on bondo) it is a very good product and can be sprayed out of a 1.4 primer gum by reducing 10 percent, I have used it many times with great results. for the price and quality it is well worth it. I have used sickens equivelant which is a little easier to sand at 50 bucks a liter I would rather pay 25-30 for a gallon of slick. I block slick out into 120-180 and spray with a good high build primer, it will be super straight! And you will be happy!
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  5. 56oldsDarrin
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 396


    thin it a little, It will lay alot smoother
  6. paintslinger1939
    Joined: Oct 1, 2007
    Posts: 49

    from Concord CA

    Slick sand is a polyester primer surfacer. It's just refered to a sprayable filler (spray bondo) because it's so thick. 2.5 size tip from a Sata polyester primer gun is great. You cab reduce it up to 10% with acetone. I like featherfill (still and evercoat product) better than slick sand. Seems to lay flatter, and blocks nicer for me but it's all personal preference. Only mix up what you know you can spray at that time. Depending on ambient temp, and can kick quick, and you'll end up with a brick in your mixing cup, and gun. I'll usually spray 3-4 coats, then block it in 150, then spray another 2-3 coats, and block in 220 if you're going to final prime with a urethane primer, or 320 if you're going to seal, and go straight to color after your sealer.
  7. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,735

    Member Emeritus

    Once sanded i would cover it with a couple of coats of epoxy primer, Its known to suck up moisture like a sponge :rolleyes:

    Its quite common here in england for cars that have had it applied to microblister later.
    I only use it on glass bodys and bake it, when sanded i cover with epoxy as soon as possible.
  8. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,438

    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    To tell you the truth, I'm not real sure why guys use this stuff so much!
    Yes, I've used similar products...but only on Corvettes, to build up something to sand off, to get out all the ripples, or on a panel on a steel car, that has had a LOT of massaging, instead of skim coating such a large area.
    I agree it has these uses, but it is also a pain to spray, hard to sand, and you can run into problems wetsanding it, because it IS so porous. Dry sanding it is a dusty mess.
    If you want just a bit of primer build, to perfect a surface, why not use a good epoxy ot urethane surfacer? Easier to apply and easier to sand and you can wetsand it, making less of a mess, and doing a better job (personal opinion here!)
    I use HOK epoxy, KP-2, and it is a great adhesive primer, fills very well, aned sands pretty easy. It also seals, so you really don't need another product, except perhaps a colored sealer to make you painting go quicker.
    In short..why put "filler" over large areas that don't need it?
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2010
  9. FASI
    Joined: May 11, 2001
    Posts: 1,114


    Thanks, good info
  10. 32v
    Joined: May 20, 2007
    Posts: 882

    from v.i.

    slick sand 4-1 is the newest version and lays down better
  11. bigguylilroof
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 210


    4-1 it has a liquid catalyst with it it is 1.10 anymore than that and it will spray like glue and need a fire hose to spray!! slick sand is awesome, do not spray over solid metal areas, but lite areas are ok, sprayed it for years and never had a problem as long as you put the correct amount of catalyst and if you want reduce with acetone or even a urethane reducer is ok, not reccomended though!! and if your doing a whole truck??? invest in a few gallons!!
    oh 4-1 is a new material out?? got ya!!
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2010
  12. ratmandano
    Joined: Nov 6, 2010
    Posts: 10


    I just sprayed slick sand on my 26 Model T. The results were awesome. The only problem I had was getting the material to spray properly at first, since the material is thick. The first gun used was a Vaper hvlp with a 2.3 mm tip. It worked but sprayed very slowly. I decided to experiment and purchased a Harbor Fright 1.8 mm pressurized paint system for 44.95. After messing around with the gun a tad, I started spraying and it worked like a charm. Now don't get me wrong. I am not a fan of HF, but for this single purpose, it did the trick. One other thing... I may be wrong, but I think they recommend epoxy primer/sealer as a base for this stuff.
  13. ken1939
    Joined: Jul 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,541

    from Pittsburgh

    As mentioned, the right gun is the issue. Follow the directions, and your temperatures. If you use it with the hardener, you have less time to work it. I used it before I primered the car for paint. I can say it was worth the extra sanding effort, with the hardener it gets a little harder to work, but in the end its worth it. Upol is a similar product, but have not used it on a large scale yet.
  14. sunsetdart
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 106


    If you go with the slick sand, make sure you see a date code on the can. If it has been sitting in a warehouse for 6 mo. to a year it will not spray as well as a fresher batch.
    Had a buddy who used it in his body shop and told me the stuff he had sprayed like snot and was very thick. The date code was 8 months ago.
  15. 68vette
    Joined: Jul 28, 2009
    Posts: 306


    Take the guns filter out....!!

    First time I used it....gun took two days to clean out....about 30 min is all the time you have to spray it in warm weather while in the gun....

    Used it on my vette but not the 49 fleetline.

    Attached Files:

  16. lowmileage
    Joined: Jan 14, 2012
    Posts: 1

    from NY

    A couple of yrs later but what the heck. Just put a gallon of SS on my 67 Corvette coupe. Used the Vaper 2.3. Coverage was 2 coats with enough left to give the front clip (less the hood) a 3rd coat. I only spray a pint at a time. Gives me less pressure worrying about it kicking off in the gun.

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