The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by slepe67, Aug 21, 2011.
Photos are up< scroll dowwwwn
Well I am super stoked to see you get on it!!! Looks a lot better then I thought. You actually have a decent coupe there!
As for the radiator, you could have it cut down but then you have less usable area to cool. Most guys moved the radiator in front of the front crossmember which is what most guys did but I don't like the way that looks most of the time.
I'm glad to see you started a build thread.
You've got a nice start there.
Please find someone to show you how to post pics from Photobucket. Opening them one at a time is driving me crazy.
I thought about cutting it down also, but I'm going to be pushing about 500 HP, and that radiator is a bit on the small side as it is...I may have to find another aftermarket radiator. This sucks, because the Mustang radiator fit like a champ and is BRAND NEW!!
yeah, it was about time! In regards to photos...this thread DOES suck for now. I've posted pics in here a hundred times, but I cant figure out how to post MANY pics with narrative (like a blog) in here..thoughts??? I may jsut do a few at a time. Gonna have my Facebookin' daughter help me out on that one.
Your using Photobucket, super easy to post pics.
I use Firefox on a PC, so if you're on something else it may be slightly different. Start by opening the HAMB post reply window in one tab and your Photobucket inn another.
When you are on your album view all your pictures will be in thumbnail. If you hover your mouse over each picture, a dropdown window will appear and there will be four choices. Roll down to the one that shows
and again...so much for a narrative of the pics. It'll be a pain to follow, but will try to fiugre out how to do it.
looks like you got yourself a nice project. I like it. Ill have to watch this. Are you trying to keep it all ford
so, where the HECK do I begin?
Photos 2 & 3 show my trunk area. I plan to use those subrails and weld them to the quarter panels. Sheetmetal floor over that, welded to the quarters as well.
Photos 5 & 6 show jsut how well Tudor doors fit in a 5 window. For the record, they are only 1/4 inch shorter. Everything else seems OK. I need to find the lower cowl side hinge and I can get the doors on and jammed. Held together by hose clamps right now.
Photos 5 through 9:
pretty much sums up my radiator dilemma. Gotta figure that out. 500 HP with tiny radiator=bad.
Photo 10- any ideas on how to put a flat firewall (machine turned) without seeing any bolt holes??? Been looking for a thread for MONTHS....
pics 2 & 3 show how the top had about 1.5 inches removed from it to chop another car. I dont think that'll be too hard to fix
Pic 4 shows how the rear fenders were welded on back in the day. I'm going to clean that up, but will likely weld fenders on it again, (as seen most recently in R & K, Chris Ito's coupe. A most excellent ride!) and no, I dont plan on using those wheels. The plan is for 8.20x31s piecrusts on 15x8.5 torq thrusts.
Pics 5 & 6 show the minor amount of sheetmetal I need to replace. Only about an inch or so along the bottom.
Pic 7 & 8 simply show the inside.
So, if it was your ride, where would YOU begin? I'm going to have the chassis rolling very soon and when that is done, I start on the body. Maybe I'll get it dipped and primered.
Thinking about a Uni-Body style floor. Body colors were white, then poweder blue, and latest..that horrid Lime Gold from the late 60s....I'm thinking baby blue, black interior.
They make vehicles OTHER THAN FORD?????????
thanks for the reminder!
302 (5.0) roller motor with Hilborn injection, MSD ignition, JBA headers, and '67 Mustang parts in front of it (pulleys, radiator, etc)
4 speed toploader from a 71 428 CJ Torino
1999 Ford Expedition aluminum driveshaft
1999 Ford Expedition rear end w/ disc brakes
Ladder bars, transeverse rear spring, 4 inch drop front end with disc brakes. Pretty much a belly button chassis.
Subscribed, your miles ahead of me. I was thinking the same thing about running machine turned firewall, I was going to cover the firewall I already have and maybe rivit the machine turned one to it with some nice ss rivits. Have you found a piece of machine turned yet? If so how much $. Here's what I want to cover up.
D.O.D.= I think your pretty well off! That thing is solid!
Firewall=No, I was just going to do it myself. Eastwood sells a kit. I still have to get a 32 firewall pattern before I can jig my car up. I'm too damn cheap. If you knew how little I had in this car you wouldnt believe me. My wife has plans for all that money Uncle Sugare gives me, and it isnt for 32 Fords!!!!
I figured it out. I raised the body to look like "JalopyKids" old 32 5W (Red car). It's a mid-height channeled car. You can still see the beauty line on the frame. Why am I going this route?
1). I can keep the same radiator. The cowl is now about 1/2" higher than the grill shell. (PIC 2)
2). It's not a highboy, not a lowboy and very different
3). This will allow me to chop the car, should the urge ever arise
4). Most importantly, the Tudor doors. They don't line up. I'll have to chop and pull them aft in order to get them to line up to the 5W's contour lines.
Anybody find sanity to my logic? Obviously, I've never done this before. It's a lot cheaper and easier to move the body around now, since it has no floor. Right now, all the mocking up is free and fast/easy. I'm open for suggestions.
When we hook up for the pic thing, I will show you where I cut my sedan doors to fit the gap.
As for where to start, I started with the cowl and am working my way back.......in my head anyway
Taking today off work to work a little more on my floor
Well, I am tired, but this makes no sense.
If the green cowl bead and the green rear quarter bead are from 32 Fords...then the bead line or belt line, should be horizontal. In other words, a 5W door does not have a sloping belt line to match that body as you have it propped up.
Take a look at the side profile pic; the roof top edge looks wrong....like the 2 halves of the body are not at the same height.
and , aren't they 4 dr sedan front doors
By looking at it, I MIGHT be able to get away with pie cutting the front door post. Then, cut out about 1/4" to 1/2" of the aft door pillar. Bend the aft section down, and re-weld. It sounds do-able on paper at least.
Oh, and your plan for a semi channel is good; You will gain interior room, and foot room which is real important with 3 pedals, the radiator problem is fixed, and because it still has some channel, the floor mods will still be easier and stronger than a full highboy.
"easier and stronger" might sound wrong, but if you have put a channeled car back up on top of the frame, you could relate.
My head hurts
Looking at the pics, the back body height is mocked up wrong.
You need to start with both halves of the body at the correct plane.
You really shouldn't cut the B pillar to fit an incorrect door profile, because the beltline will not be horizontal.
Don't know if I am clear enough, but let's say your neighbor had a mint 5w body shell; then you'd take your wrong door and cut/weld the door to fit a mint orig body.
Just imagine the mess you'd have if you made your wrong door fit his car, by cutting/welding his car to fit your uncut wrong door.
Yes! Cut the front post on the peak of the radius.....BUT .....you will also need to pie cut/single cut the inner edge in the middle of the window opening or when you take out the section at the b-pillar the upper section will be on an angle to the lower and will look goofy/wrong. Does this make sense??
congrats, looks good.
The sedan doors angle up slightly in the window opening, they do not on a 5W, he is cutting the door to look like a 5W............its the right thing to do........well I hope so as I have already done it hahahaha
As I read it, he is not cutting the door, he is cutting the front W/S post and the B pillar. That ain't right
The main reason the beltlines don't match the door is because he has the back body and roof rail moved up to fit that wrong door top profile.
Yeah, i think your reading it wrong......its all about the door.
Hell that would be a crazy move to cut the cowl A pillar and body B-pillar hahahhaaha
If you look at the pics again, he has the roof section butted up against the top of the door, so its in about the correct spot but the lower belt line at the b pillar is off, so he need to chop out a little ON THE DOOR b-pillar.
Yeah....I can see how I pulled a Jedi- mind trick on everyone
I want to cut the doors, not the body
What do you huys honestly think? Get 5W doors or will these work?
For clarity: I THOUGHT they were tudor (two door) doors. Or am i an idiot?
Best to ask first, cut after i get good advice
Cutting door only. So how do i line up the ass end? This thing is shaky as a dog shitting peach pits and difficult at best to get it to hold still without a floor
Still, the more i look at it, i dont have any other way to line it up. The doors are touching up top, no gap at all. Im gonna go snap a picture with iphone real quick...See top of this post
If its really going to bother you that you have modified sedan doors, wait till you find 5W doors, if not, cut the sedan doors you have. Personally I would run the sedan doors.........hell I already am.
The only real diff apart from the window opening is the width and the inner door skin.
It doesnt bother me at all to use them. I just want this to be done correctly and as nice as possible. Since the doors are 1/4" shorter than a 5W, its a good thing my body is already cut in half laterally.
I guess the next step is to get all the hinges on, door latches/ hardware, and go from there. Do you have pics of how you did your doors? Am i on the right track in how I THINK I need to cut them??? Thanks for the help gents, it is appreciated! Nobody has steel cars in my area, glass only so i cant learn from anyone!!!!
Hang on a second, that door looks different in the window opening!
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