Single-stage paint,not good to wetsand/buff?

Im color sanding now and have a LOT of dust on my hood. I used only 2000 (I have lots of time) the dirt came out but left holes where it sat that look kinda deep. Im afraid if I keep sanding Ill be into the primer. Anyone else have this problem and what was the out come ? Thanks.

 

X2..thank you!

 

My arms are sore just reading this thread. Always seemed to me, you had to learn the hard way what not to do before getting good at this. And it's easier to sand & buff a dry spot than a run. jmho.

 

I didn't read every post in this thread but having the clear coat on a paint job makes it much easier to repair since the clear can be scuffed and blended into the next panel if needed. My 40 is getting painted next week and the guy is planningon using a SSU with clear mixed into the last color coat and then a clear over that. It's supposed to look a lot like an old lacquer job, we'll see.

 

See attached picture. The Corvette is factory paint. The Harley V Rod was painted with single stage urethane. I wet sanded and buffed it myself (viper red). It shines like a wet dxxk in the moonlight.

 

don't sand through! how does it look outside in the sun? [it's natural habitat]

 

About the same. Thats the bigest one ,the rest are real small. I hand rubbed the other side of the hood and in the sun you can still see tiny specs where the holes were although its looks 90 percent better then before i wet sanded.

 

I worked for a body shop for 5 years in the late 80's early 90's and we did many single stage paint jobs where we cut,hand rubbed with fine compound and buffed. alwase looked like glass when done. just let it cure well before cutting & etc.

 

i have a 57 chevy paint with single stage ppg about 12 to 15 years ago was not stripped as old paint was good so sanded , primed, sanded and sprayed looks pertty good except has a slight orange peel not sure how may coats were put on it ///should we try to sand and buff or or just wax and leave it alone dont want to mess it up ???? thanks for any ideas its a driver

 

Anytime hardener has been used the paint can be wetsanded and buffed. But if it is a metallic, you really can't do it, other remove some slight nibs and peel. You didn't say whether it is a solid color or has any metallic in it?

 

Blue one . . just is just silly. No reason at all to be afraid of SS paint if it's a solid color. If it is metallic, then we have an issue. The mil thickness of BC compared to SS is different and any "painter" should know that.

 

Who me It's not me afraid of SS paint. I'm not a painter but SS is what I want my RPU shot in.

 

No my truck isnt washington blue. It was a color I pursued but went another way. I shot it on an old fender in first pic(bright sunlight). Second pic is what it should be in shadow. If you want to try a sample first,thats why I posted it.

 

OK so I think we have it straight. What you posted is the blue you used on your truck. A nice blue to be sure, but lighter than Washington Blue.

It would be nice to be able to nail down a proper formula for Washington Blue.

I found an Isuzu Trooper Cavalier Blue #803 that is very close to Washington Blue and has been used as a replacement.

 

Blue one , have you seen this ?
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorco...935&smanuf=Ford&smodel=&sname=Washington Blue

 

No, I had not seen this. Looks like the formulas should be easy to find from that.

Thanks.

 

X2---absolutely.

 

I agree! years ago I did my model a that way and a friend did his truck with clear. Both were Black and my model a looked much better than his truck. In fact the truck look grey next to my car.

 

I'm not even sure why this is a discussion.
I do it all the time.
Great results

 

=PetesPonies;8827606]Anytime hardener has been used the paint can be wetsanded and buffed. But if it is a metallic, you really can't do it, other remove some slight nibs and peel. You didn't say whether it is a solid color or has any metallic in it?[/QUOTE]


its a solid color not metallic

 

NO! My truck ISNT washington blue. My truck is in my gallery and is lighter blue.

The washington blue pictured IS darker than you realise. Thats bright sunlight, and shadow shown.

 

My bad man, here I am confusing myself and others

 

3M makes a 1500 grit dry and 3000 wet da paper for sanding prior to buffing. Use an air gun to blow dust off with the 1500 dry so it doesn't get trapped between the paper and the paint and use a pump spray gun to keep the surface damp with the 3000. Use a smooth palm type da sander. Needs a velcro type backing pad from 3m. Kinda spendy, about 200 bucks to set up paper and pad, but cuts color sanding to half the time. What I like about it is the 3000 does such a nice job that you can adjust your gloss when you buff by using different buffing pads and compounds and advoid the high gloss you get with the modern paints, especially when using single stage. I just did an old motor cycle to approximate the look of the old Dupont Dulux enamal that was original.

 

So, I'm still trying to get it straight Is the formula you posted the color you used on your truck ?

 

Can anyone comment on what this Blue might be ?

 

I'm pretty sure the formula he posted in #22 is the color on the fender and the pickup in the two folowing pictures on page 7... and NOT the color he used on his pickup.

I think...