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Single-stage paint,not good to wetsand/buff?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by shinysideup, Mar 20, 2012.

  1. DukeFarm76
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 13


    I've done it a bunch of times. It seems like the guy at your paint store doesn't know what he's talking about. I wouldn't sand/buff a metallic or pearl unless I absolutely had to, but I've never had a problem with solids. Personally, I would put on 4 coats. A good rule of thumb is to put on one extra coat if you're going to sand and polish. A typical BC/CC job has 2 coats of clear so I put on a third to give a little extra material to sand off. Usually a SS finish has 3 coats so I give it a fourth. I guess it also depends on your particular color and how well it covers. Just give it a little extra flash time in between coats. With the extra material comes extra chance of trapping solvents.
  2. Here is my buddy Rocket doing a cut and buffed on my single stage roof two days ago... Looks great, no problems at all.

  3. shinysideup
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,627

    from ruskin, fl

    I dont know if I can knock the paint guy as the data sheet supplied says N/A to sanding, wet,dry etc.
    Not sure on paint brands, but told him I didnt want cheap paint or the highest end stuff either.
  4. KROWN Kustoms
    Joined: Oct 12, 2007
    Posts: 193

    KROWN Kustoms

    Ive sprayed limco three on 3 cars so far with no issues exept light colors are a little on the thin side. Definately not like shooting base and clear, limco flows out quite a bit. Just dont be over zealous with it and it will turn out slick as glass.
  5. tbird37821
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 145


    this is this is single stage acrylic urethane cut and buffed.

  6. ^^^Good lookin' T-Bird!
    I color sand and buff everything. You've gone to all the trouble to get the body straight, so why not spend the time to get the finish smooth and shiny? You can have your booth hospital-clean, but you'll still get particulates in the paint. Nubs, dirt, and bugs should never be left in a paint job, in my opinion.

    I used to hear it all the time about buffing single-stage paints, but back in the day, the ORIGINAL Centari was phenominal, and with a few extra coats, would buff out like glass. They changed the formula when they lowered the VOCs, and it wasn't as good. The latest Dupont single stage stuff that's water-borne is actually pretty good stuff.

    I might ruffle some feathers with this statement, but DON'T cheap out on paint. Spend a little extra and buy the good stuff. The cheap stuff is usually cheap for a reason, and usually you find that out after a few years when the finish dies, and no amount of buffing will save it.
  7. Pinstriper40
    Joined: Sep 24, 2007
    Posts: 3,454


    Hey! I know that guy! The '59 looks great btw!
  8. allstarderrick
    Joined: Jul 23, 2007
    Posts: 603


    Do it all the time. I prefer single stage when I'm doing solid colors. I start all my color sanding with 800 and work my way to 1500 or 2000. My car has been done for a while now with DuPont Chroma One and still looks fresh ImageUploadedByTJJ1332342053.423811.jpg
  9. NMCarNut
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 632


    A couple of pics to show the graphic difference of before and after a single stage cut and buff. Two coats of PPG DCC Concept with 72 hour cure. And the after is taken before the finishing glaze buff.

    Attached Files:

  10. fms427
    Joined: Nov 17, 2006
    Posts: 864


    Dupont single stage fleet paint - was also told "it is designed to spray on the truck without color sanding, buffing, etc - which makes a lot of sense if you are painting a lot of big trucks and trailers.....:D". but I color sanded and buffed without a problem. Good gloss, but obviously not a clear coat.

    Attached Files:

  11. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,151


    Anyone using these S/S on daily drivers that see a lot of sun?
  12. nicamarvin
    Joined: Jan 29, 2010
    Posts: 611

    from nicaragua

    I been trying so hard to learn how to buff and polish, but I can never get back the same shine the paint had when it was fresh(a few days after painted) I sand all the imperfections and work my way all the way to 2000 grit and then the 3M polishing compound but I just can´t bring back that shine ever agains without using any kind of wax. wich I cant use in my line of work. I just can´t have any tipe of grease or wax..
  13. Dumb question, why the progression from 1000, 1500, 2000. ? Cant you just use 2000 then buff ?
  14. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,227

    Da Tinman

    you can but its gonna take a lot longer if the surface isnt perfect.
  15. Catman53
    Joined: Feb 10, 2012
    Posts: 3

    from Georgia

    The harder urethanes like Duponts Imron and the aviation / marine urethanes like Awlgrip will not sand and buf out to the level of shine as originally sprayed.In fact you will find it very hard just to wet sand it so you can respray your mistake.
    But only the spoiled super rich that own Offshore powerboats and Helicopters ever use the stuff so wtf.

  16. nicamarvin
    Joined: Jan 29, 2010
    Posts: 611

    from nicaragua

    because you need to use a 600 or 800 grit to fix the issues and if you go directly to 2000 then you will not be able to fix the scratches left my the 800 grit paper, but 1000 fixes that...But it also leaves sanding scratches that the 200 can´t fix but the 1500 can fix them, then the 2000 is use to fix those sanding scratches, but the 2000 also leaves minor scratches and then comes the polishing compound to fix them...:p
  17. fms427
    Joined: Nov 17, 2006
    Posts: 864


    Progression saves a lot of time. You could use only 2000, but it would take forever to remove the material you need to get it smooth. Of course, also depends on how smooth you can lay the paint down......:D
  18. nicamarvin
    Joined: Jan 29, 2010
    Posts: 611

    from nicaragua

    men I´m learning how hard is to lay a smooth orange peel free surface, some times I get lucky and leave the paint untouched and go directly to Spray chrome it.

    after spray chrome

    but sometimes I´m not as lucky, so its to sand down and re spray hoping for the best..:(
  19. 54fierro
    Joined: Jul 6, 2006
    Posts: 493

    from san diego

    It takes lots of patience to get it just right. Many times I have buffed out paint after wet sanding to where it looked pretty good until you looked at it in the right light and you see all the spots that needed more work and looked dull.

    My 54 is in single stage dupont 99a. If i couldn't cut and buff it it would have looked like it was undercoated, I don't paint very well. haha.
  20. allstarderrick
    Joined: Jul 23, 2007
    Posts: 603


    Sanding your paint or clear starting with 2000 is like sanding body filler starting with 320. It will sand it but you'll never get it as flat. Finer grits ride over that surface rather than cutting it like a coarser grit.

    As far as UV protection, that's something that the less expensive paints lack in clear coats and single stages.
  21. Lild
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 260


    When I started working in body shops base/clear was just becoming popular so we were still shooting alot of single stage colors. I loved sanding and buffing the single stage colors. The first one I did was a metalic burnt orange early 70s Monte Carlo and second was a metalic dark green 57 Chevy 4dr. Why I remember those is obvious. Not sure why some are saying you cant buff metalics though. I never had anything shift or mar on the ones I did. Did burn through once or 10 times:eek:
  22. Not very smooth yet :D
  23. HighSpeed LowDrag
    Joined: Mar 2, 2005
    Posts: 968

    HighSpeed LowDrag
    from Houston

    I like single stage when cut and buffed. Has a "different" look than that of BC/CC. The best thing is that if you ever have to repaint a spot, you don't have to clear the whole panel. Just paint it and cut and buff that spot. To me, it's like a Colored clearcoat.
  24. arkiehotrods
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 6,616


    That photo right there is enough to make anyone who wants patina or suede rethink what they want on their car! Beautiful!
  25. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 35,176


    I got a gallon of that exact blue SS paint that needs a home!
  26. NSTLGA 33
    Joined: Feb 13, 2012
    Posts: 72

    NSTLGA 33
    from australia

    I have a couple of questions aswell, good thread by the way, I,m getting educated by it.
    I intend to paint my 32 myself when I get to that part of the project, I have blokes telling me to paint it two pak, but I beleive two pak is nasty stuff and has to painted in a booth, so I am leaning toward doing it in acrylic instead.
    So is acrylic okay to spray without using a booth? and would it be fair to say some of the cars in this thread have been painted that way?
    In order to get a good shine would you get a better result if you color sanded between every second coat to keep the paint flat or just sand when your finished painting?
    I don't know what its like in the US but to get a car painted in Aus will tear you a new arsehole, its VERY expensive, so any tips to avoid the expense and do it myself is greatly appreciated.
  27. You can put a single stage with hardner on with a roller, cut and rub it and it would be gorgeous.
    Black is the best.
  28. Did you try a progression of rubbing compounds. The 3m product line I use has 3 stages of buffing compounds and require three different pads. The shine really comes up with each one. Not cheap, fast or easy but its GOOD !!!
  29. matt73
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 49

    from va

    Single Stage gloss is killer It does not hold up well on cars that stay outside especially reds.
  30. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,729

    john worden
    from iowa

    Beautiful work.

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