I don't know of any TSC (Tractor Supply Comp) stores around this area, but when I lived in Ohio I LOVED going to that store because of the amazing amount of unsuspecting things on the shelf. I have heard there are places around here that are similar to TSC, and supposedly they do carry paints of this nature, but I don't know exactly what is was. Valspar (sp?) seems to ring a bell. Have no idea what kind of paint it is though. And I agree! Cheaper to read and reasearch than to just go buy stuff and try it.
Sherwinn Williams has a great black in Single Stage. We use a black on the trains here at work that is very deep and looks great. Color is from an AMC
Couple things: Unless you're buying pre-mixed paint, the paint mixer at your supplier can make or break you regardless of paint brand. I've gotten thin Dupont, thin Nason (same supplier), thin PPG, thin Omni, etc. I've also had good results with all of the above plus Martin Senor, Sherwin Williams, etc. I've found that good equipment and a willingness to understand the "particularities" of the product can get me through most situations. As far as the Tractor Supply paint - one of my father's neighbors approached me to buff out a cheapy car he had painted in his driveway with implement paint (enamel) with hardener added. It actually laid down well, would have been respectable if the wind hadn't blown dust all over it, and buffed well too - certainly good for frames / suspension. I've also used Rustoleum with hardener for the frame on one of my father's cars (I'm cheap...he's REALLY cheap) - it's held up for 7 years of significant driving and still has good gloss. I've used LOTS of Omni - BC/CC. I can't speak much for single stage since I don't use it very often, but have had great results using the high solids clear. I'm not sure if this is true, but a PPG rep told me the differences between the PPG lines and the Omni lines were basically 2 things - color availability and UV protection in the clear. Perhaps someone can deny or confirm this?
Dupont's Imron gloss black is the best hands down for a single stage. Its shine and durability is better than all single stage paints and powder coatings. They use it on Big Rigs and they still shine after a million plus mile. If you cant get it out where you are see if you can have someone get it for you.
I found a bunch of these on eBay by searching W-71, but it says they have a 2.0mm tip. Did you buy an IWATA tip for it, or is the 1.0mm what came with it? These are running $27 shipped, FYI.
I saw them on ebay, too. I didn't call the retailer to see if it was a missprint or not. The guns I have are 1.0MM fluid tip. I'll send the seller a question and see what the truth is on the tip size and report back. http://www.dino-power.com/products/DP-6321-W71-iwata-spraygun.html
Yes, specifically "alkyd" resin or synthetic enamel, a step or so below acrylic enamel (centari) in durability.
Let us know what you find out. Thanks! BTW, just for interest sake, I found this when doing a Google search for "Spray gun 1.0" http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/...35&zmam=15972153&zmas=21&zmac=141&zmap=568135 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200319461_200319461 Also, this is similar to the W-71 but comes with TWO tips for $35! http://www.amazon.com/8mm-GRAVITY-SPRAY-1-0mm-Mounted/dp/B0027J9T2W Cheep-o's, but thought I would pass it on anyway.
BTW, just for interest sake, I found this when doing a Google search for "Spray gun 1.0" http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/...35&zmam=15972153&zmas=21&zmac=141&zmap=568135 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200319461_200319461 Cheep-o's, but thought I would pass it on anyway.[/QUOTE] By the shape of the handles these look like copies of SATA touch up guns, which are very similar.
just got back from the paint store, bought a couple of qts for future. since then need to get rid of concept it was regular $129 a qt today was $67 a qt....i should say that was the paint alone plus hardener. the hardener is still being used for clear coats so it's regular price. sounds like it's a VOC thing. the pigments have a higher VOC (for some reason PPG didn't come out with a new binder) then the clear, so concept colors has to go in california. i'm going to miss my single stage paint, the only ones left (at least in the paint store i go to) is omni, something that costs $250 a qt with hardener...starts with a G? and maybe hok. from now on it's urethane primer, then tree hugger Kool-Aid (pimpin paint tm) and then urethane clear....or mix all my paint and make a metallic brown .
I sell PPG paint at my work. Concept is old but good. I would suggest using delfeet single stage black. It comes in all the normal colours black flat black white. In the great white here it costs about 160.00 cdn for the gallon plus the hardner and the actervator.Haven't had a single problem with it. Been selling for almost 2 years now. Just my 2 cents.
Hey Scoot, Unless you're not plannin' on painting many projects in the future, I don't think I suggest a cheap HVLP gun! All of the cheap HVLP guns that I've pulled the trigger on were about the same...........worthless as mule cum! Since you're goin' with solid colours in bleu? & black, no big money candies, pearls, mica or ground glass coats, why not an old siphon cup gun. With a cheater valve at the gun inlet, and the fan adjustment dialed down, you should have no trouble gettin' a finish moma would be proud of! Centari is reduced @ 50% if i'm rememberin', pretty easy to piss and flow with good coverage in your colour choices. You're probably figgerin on coloursanding, cutting and polishing anyway, so in theory, you could roll it on, cut and polish it! Coloursanding is o.k. for urethanes and some of the better acrylic enamels, the ones used with preminum hardners, but is the kiss of death for cheap enamels and sudden death for synthetic enamels. Oxygen is a nasty gas that attacks the binder (that's the glue that holds the paint together), and the pigments (the actual colour or the paint) and soon leads to gloss die back and eventual failure of the paint job. What oxygen doesn't kill the sun's UV rays will! Paint technology has come far from the days of tree sap resin and beatle guts and shit to the ''Tree hugger Kool-Aid" used by most auto manfactures, today, but I have zero use for overcleared urethanes and tree hugger Kool-Aid on traditional hot rods & kustoms! " All great truths begin as blasphemies"
Nothing yet, It's an ebay store and no response probably is an indication of how well their customer service is. I'll check the local jobber that I got mine from and see what the price and availability is. I'm guessing that a lot of local jobbers or wholesale houses that specifically sell autobody tools and supplies will have these. I'm sure where you live, the paint gun is easier to buy than the paint with the "Tree-Hugger" faction in charge.
You're a jerk, but you're also right. IF cost was a factor, I'd have to say Centari is the one I'd probably go with. It does have a really nice gloss level for the price. The few times I've used it, it hasn't been too bad. A quick cut and buff and it would look really nice.
i to have been painting for 25 years i've shot it all enamels; laquers; base coats etc....if you are looking for a good gloss single stage black i would shot sikkens 242 mixing black autocryl. it shoots smooth, lays like glass and dryes rock hard. by looking at it you would thank its power coat. to get a deep black with depth add 10 to 15% black with sikken clear coat.this black is bbllaaacckkkk and polishes like glass, you know when you run water over your car and the water makes it look slick, thats this black.sikkens also makes a flat black call ralley black very nice it looks black not all chalky
Hey Scoot, Of all the tools you'll need for your paint job/detail, make sure, at the top of your list is a good respirator! And no, not one ya bought outa a hardware store! Be sure to pick up some matching filters for the type of finish you'll be spraying i.e. epoxy/urethane.Some Nitrile gloves wouldn't be a bad idea, either. The solvents and acids used in today's automotive finish products aren't anything close, health risk wise, to the shit used "back in the day". Also, every pour of your skin is an open window to your blood stream, and thus your lungs, kidneys, liver and brain...........and you wanted to dismiss painter's behavior on the booze!! I don't wanna come off sounding like someone's old man, but if ya abuse this shit, It WILL kick your ass and take your lunch money. Too, I don't wanna see you draggin''round an oxygen bottle or fatherin' kids that come out lookin' like ET. Rottsa ruck, " Hypocrisy is the Vaseline of social intercourse"
in the forty some odd years ive been spraying ive used most of the stuff mentioned in this thread. i agree with those who know the difference from omni and nason from the more expensive brands, you can sure tell the difference. i wouldnt use the cheaper stuff on my cars either i too, get pissed just when you get used to a product, and they outlaw it. in the old days i did many centari and delstar jobs, and in their day that was the best you could get. i would have to say the urethanes of today beat them out in durability an looks though. not that centari's junk, its just that the urethane is better being in kali i feel your pain of being told your favortie stuff is discontinued. many of the suppilers still get it for me , and as others have posted, you can get it in nevada. one of the brands still legal, and i have shot lots of , is r.m. uno. the black and solid colors are great and its easy to shoot. on cold days a cap full of accelerator(in addition to the normal catylist) will make it set up quick without dieback or dulling. the sikkens and spies stuff is top notch as well. what ever brand you get , use the top of the line stuff, and you will get a good and lasting finish. and dont wqorry, you can still get some clv if thats what you want, just not in many districts skull
I have to say when I see these threads I always think it is just not worth it to do it yourself for a 1 job deal. Before you jump down my throat I have painted at home and in booths. It is great to want to do everything yourself and if that is more important than the BEST go for it. It is hard for me a most to understand you can't be the best at everything. Painting at home sucks. First after you tally up all the so called low buck equipment you have spent double what you thought you would. Then there is the shop set up and cleanliness. Remember you also have to clean your stuff and dispose of the chemicals and this isn't 1980 where you dump it into the drain. If I was stuck doing an at home deal I would locate someone looking for some O/T at their shop and make them an offer. This is a great place to also find someone. As you can see everyone has a so called favorite paint, primer and gun to apply it. To get a combo that works takes experience. The time and money you will waste will be double to apply a one shot no cut job. Painting a frame or suspension is a spray as little material and get it right the first shot deal. Add too much material and it will chip. If you do it yourself remember getting a paint, reducer, primer, gun, spray pattern, environment, etc, etc right takes material and time which means MONEY!!! Good luckk
Does PPG still make Deltron? The black Deltron single stage was the nicest buffing, closest to lacquer looking paint I ever used. Lippy
Not sure I ever got anyone to reply on this... Does anyone have any feedback on the TCP Global's products, like "Restoration Shop" paints? Is this just cheapy paint?? http://www.tcpglobal.com/RestorationShop/ I agree with you to some extent. However, have you ever seen what it costs to have a GOOD paint job done with GOOD paint in Southern California? It's outragous! In addition, I really want to learn a thing or two about painting. I'm tired of just squirting stuff with spray bombs. I want to learn how to put a nice looking finish on my parts that will last. I've built about everything else on my car up to this point, why not learn how to do some painting as well. No better way to learn than to roll up my sleeves and get dirty, make some mistakes, and take some chances. Totally! PPE for sure! Did you get my PM??? Been meaning to check out Deltron also. Thanks for the reminder.
the old style deltron is long gone, but yeah that was great stuff. the deltron name still is used on some productts including the deltron 2000 bc/cc system.
thats a good point, i do also understand the want to learn and do it yourself, after all thats what its all about and how all us got started in what we do a happy medium is to get in good with a local painter (drop in with some beer) and ask a few questions, and see about some guideance along the way. probably talk him into renting the booth cheap when time to spray, and good guys will toss you some of the incidentals such as fish eye preventer,etc, that you need very little of,but a container is big $$ i have done this for guys over the years, as i started that way as well. a little guidance will go along way and save ya some money as well skull
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