On my 32 Plymouth PB, the floor is sagging. I do not know for sure if it was like this before it was blasted or if this is the result of warping from blasting. Either way, when I push up on it, it oil cans and then is humped up until I push it back down. I am not sure, but it seems like it needs shrunk in order to flatten it out. Please advise on some ideas of how to do this.
Is the body off the chassis? If so maybe placing it on the chassis and bolting it down will change things. Be sure you use the proper thickness webbing or body blocks between the body & chassis. This helps with door alignment too. Bob
The floor has a lot of bracing / ribs, strange that its oil canning. Verify the cross car door frame measurements, if the car was tipped on it side on the rocker to access while blasting it may be shifted out of square
My thought is when bolted down to the frame the oil canning will be a thing of the past. The floor in the Plymouth has enough bracing and it looks like it has been distorted or rusted out. HRP
If it is still oil canning once it is bolted down then a few dime-size shrinks with a torch & wet rag will usually do the trick...
Ok....I know you guys wont want to hear this, I worked final repair at Ford for many years. Once in a while a floor would oil can. It would be sent to the the metal repairman to fix. A couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer...done. It would leave a very small dent that nobody would see.
There's a little more technique involved in removing an oil can effect than just heating and cooling rapidly. It involves hammering moderately around the heated spot with the effect of pushing the thinned areas into the heated thin areas, and thus it thickens. By repeating this technique around the stretched area you move towards decreasing overall surface area The shrinking disc works by heating the areas it has contact with by means of friction. The areas are the highs. The areas heat up and the force of the grinder against the panel causes the highs to push back down in on its self or surrounding areas. The wet rag just allows you to cool the panel to the touch
How about making a U shaped buck out of some wood & making another groove under or behind the seat area. I don't think it would have to be too deep to stiffen things up, if that is the area where the problem is.
This is good advice but I would do it now to be sure all looseness is tightened up before paint and setting it back on the frame. If the floor was sand blasted I'm not surprised at all that it warped.
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