Gonna paint my old truck white single stage, nothing special. $350 for urethane, gallon with hardner and reducer. $250 for acrylic enamel. Tractor Supply alkyd enamel with hardner about $60. Why not use that?
I just go to the paint store I deal with, tell them what I want to do.... they recommend a couple of paints, I make a choice, they load me up with whatever else I need and I give them money. This is largely my expertise with paint, I let them make the critical decisions. Applying the paint is the easy part.
Tractor paint works just fine, I am especially fond of the Ford tractor gray. The ravens roadster got shot in it about 10 years ago now and it still looks as good as the day it was shot.
My first paint job was tractor/implement enamel on an old truck. It was red...for a while. It turned pink after a bit. I think the tractor paint doesn't have the chemicals in it to keep the sun from dulling and bleaching it out. I put Tractor Supply white paint on the firewall of the truck I am building. It looks more like an off white and should be ok out of the sun I would think. Maybe Tractor Supply paint is better than the stuff I used years ago.
urethane $110 gallon with hardener, enamel is less. 24 shades of white to choose from. http://www.tcpglobal.com/RSP-AU1101-KIT-M.html#.Vypi2J9OnqA I like shooting tractor paint, but don't want to use it on exterior sheetmetal. I've shot a few quarts of TCPGlobal, layed down nice, easy to use, great price. Haven't had a chance to do a whole vehicle with it.
Yeah if I was going red I wouldn't consider the TS paint. Even the old red single stage auto paint would fade. I had this sweet red Elco years ago that had to be rubbed out and waxed constantly. But with white I'm not as concerned about it. That's about what they told me at the college (where I have the booth reserved next Monday) it would cost. Thanks.
I still use the second one you mentioned.Then I don't have to worry about it peeling later on. Bruce.
if you can afford the better paint now, do it. there are reasons the other paints are more expensive, better workability, shine, durability, ease of touchup, etc.......in the long run the couple hundred more will seam cheap compared to the effort to keep it looking good in the future.
years ago a guy we knew painted all the white on Coors trucks in their yard. I don't know what kind of paint it was but we all had our beaters and such painted with Coors white--it was tough stuff too. Lasted 10 yrs on my old pickup and still looked good.
I just finished painting a car trailer with Tractor Supply paint, it sprayed easy and flowed out real nice. But- next morning looked like La Brea tar pits its oil based so it takes like 4 hours to set up, every bug on the block is stuck to my fenders. On the bright side at $34.00 a gallon it might be cheaper than Raid. JJ
I'd go with the urethane link he posted. why spend 300... I struggled with Acrylic Enamels long ago, then tried 2 different paints that were so much easier to get a smooth finish without any sanding/buffing...both looked great without any buffing at all,( and I don't paint very often for enough practice..) the first one was polyurethane enamel that uses the same hardener as SS urethane. Then I did one with SS urethane. Both looked great, and I almost think the SS urethane was easier to get a excellent flow without any hint of sags or runs. But those hardeners make me ill. EDIT/ADDING: That SS paintjob was white. It was part red and part primer when I painted over it. The first coat went on real nice without getting "snow blind". The second/final coat was tough to see if I was getting a good coat, as you just can't see some areas, unless you move to get a reflection. Two coats covered perfect, and a pro could have done it in one coat, just like new car factories do. .
Take a look at TCP globals site, they carry a lot of lines of paint, this is their in house brand "restoration shop" urethane, enamel, and base clear in those colors. They're a PPG jobber, rumor is restoratuon shop is rebadged PPG but I can't confirm that. If you decide to go with Implement paint, use the hardener, thin a bit with acetone, lacquer thinner will take forever to tack off and cure. Its cheap enough to shoot plenty of test panels. I've shot a lot of it on equipment. I prefer Valspar at farm and fleet over rustoleum, but use both. Never tried TS paint. If you need to buff it, it takes a very long time (months) to cure. Keep it waxed and it will do OK.
talking about "snow blind" reminded me; i knew a guy who sanded and painted the white trucks for Marcus Dairy. he sanded white, primed white and painted white all day. he LOVED painting stuff on the side........as long as it wasn't white.
Olscrounger, I bet it was Emron paint. I used to use it a lot and loved it. Now you cant even touch it with its high priceThats what I used on my 58 buick in my Avatar.Bruce.
Three widows garage.Next time try using a bug bomb in your shop before shooting a car. I am. Thanks Bruce.
I've been using an acrylic urethane (Wimbledon White) on my Ford, made by Omni, think it was $36 a quart. I'm sure gallons are a better deal. HVLP gun from Harbor Fright, worked great.
I see the term "enamel" bandied about on a lot of paint threads. Unless it's out of a rattle can I won't use it. Acrylic seems to stay tacky for more than a day, alkyd is just Rustoleum without the fish oil, no-name stuff is a gamble. As soon as you set out to pick up the gun you need to be all in, as in not going to do it again. Saving money on product is the old cliche', "The bitterness of poor quality lasts far longer than the sweetness of a bargain." You should also understand what "looks good" to Sam might look like ass to Joe, and many other casual observers. The work is even harder than it used to be over 40yrs later so I use proper products on everything. The lowest I'll go is PPG Shop-Line, but in my experience it's not really low at all. Better price, production quality, simple system.
I called a friend who works at a local body shop, he recommended a local distributor who has a fleet urethane called Rival for $125 plus $40 hardener, which is about what the TCP costs with shipping. I'd go with the TCP but Monday is the last day of my auto body class at the college and I have the booth reserved, not sure I'd get it in time. Ever heard of Rival?
google search came up with this. http://www.axaltacs.com/corporate/en_US/about-axalta/history.html looks like they evolved from the company that owned dulux.
This is what I've been using lately. Using their hardener (MH167), reducer and acrylic lacquer thinner the paint place recommends. http://us.ppgrefinish.com/getmedia/...11B3F74/04/ob09-mtk-acrylic-urethane-9-12.pdf
Here's the Rival28, looks like that's the plan. Haven't shot a car in 20 years, wish me luck! Do I drink a few beers first or after, I forget. http://www.axaltacs.com/content/dam...cuments/tds/TR-TDS-Rival-RV28-Quality-Eng.pdf
Axalta bought Dupont Performance coatings about two years ago. Anything that was once Dupont is now labeled Axalta.
The gun would either be a boon or a bust and we were shooting trim, the firewall and floor at the time. Took it apart, cleaned it up, used an o-ring for the paint cup seal and ditched the crappy one it came with. Interior is Duplicolor white (lacquer) from Auto Zone, fire wall and door jambs and so on was the Omni paint. The paint store had no code for Colonial White, so Wimbledon White was fine.
If you want a white that will fade in 6 months to a year use straight enamel, when you use a hardener you double the life span of it, and bring chemical resistance to the table. Acrylic urethanes bring chemical resistance and the acrylic in it brings softness which allows you to repair, buff etc, but with the softness it doesn't offer the best in abrasion and chemical resistance. Polyurethane is a very hard product which offers one of the best chemical and abrasion resistance out there. But it's so hard that repairing and buffing is difficult. Imron is a polyurethane, we make a polyurethane at under half price of imron. Linear Polyester is the most chemical resistant with unmatched flex and exterior durability. This is what we manufacture for marine and aerospace application. Always remember junky Paint can flow and level and look like a million bucks, but its what it looks like a year from now that tells you how good it is. Sent from my SM-N920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The gallon of Rival came with a quart of hardener but no reducer, supposed to be pre-thinned. I'm worried a gallon might not be enough? The truck (full size short bed) is all gray primer. Instructions say full coverage in two crosscoats. http://www.axaltacs.com/content/dam...cuments/tds/TR-TDS-Rival-RV28-Quality-Eng.pdf
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