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Technical Shoebox front suspension questions. Please help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blake84, Apr 10, 2014.

  1. Blake84
    Joined: Feb 4, 2012
    Posts: 760

    Blake84
    Member

    Soooo.....I have repleaced inner tie rod, outer tie rod, drag link, idler arm. I have stock A arms with jamco drop spindles. i noticed alot of "PLAY" in the steering wheel which seemed new and went under and couldnt really figure out other than a bushing that was bad on the idler arm (ordered new). I am sure the steering box could be rebuilt so I am in the process of removing that. Anyway tires on front BALD as shit in weird pattern so something is definitly off.

    My questions. is it worth the money for tubular A arms? does it make that much of a difference with the quality of the ride?($900)

    I want to have nice tight steering. will i ever achieve this with the old steering components? are there upgrades to the steering that i dont know about? other than s10 swap or mustang 2.

    any advice please let me know

    I want to get in the car on the highway and not white knuckle it. I have a mustang 2 set up in my truck that i can drive with 1 finger and maybe im just spoiled by that :)


    thanks

    Blake
     
  2. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Tubular control arms aren't going to fix sloppy steering and won't do anything to change ride quality.
    You're never going to get go-kart steering on a Shoebox Ford, but the stock systems are perfectly acceptable, safe, and comfortable to most owners.

    I'd say you should look into adjusting the steering box. It's not hard to do.
    Check your kingpins, too. A little harder to do, but a lot easier to swallow than spending thousands on replacing the front end.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  3. DadsBlueFord
    Joined: Oct 2, 2011
    Posts: 472

    DadsBlueFord
    Member
    from Hayden, ID

    I'm going to be doing the Volvo 140 manual box swap. I've heard it's the closest thing you can get to power steering without actual power steering.

    Have you got a build thread for your shoebox?
     
  4. I've done the Flipped Spindles then Dropped Spindles Volvo box change over installed 2 Fat Man kits for friends and NONE of them drive as friendly or smooth as my 51 Vicky does. It runs a 70 Nova clip. I can't begin to tell you how easy it was to do. It runs stock coil springs, stock spindles, stock power steering, stock 51 steering column (that took a little work) and stock Nova brakes. It could very easy go to air bags if it was my thing, that aint going to happen. No mix and try to match parts. You can let your wife or Grandmother drive your car once done it's that Friendly. I think I payed $300.oo for the Nova when I bought it and made back over 1K parting it out and ended up with the front clip left behind. We have over 30K miles on it since I built it and Summer is right in front again. Nothing to do but get in and go. I couldn't be happier. Yes it runs a S.B.C. and a 700-R-4 and no I didn't have to cut the floor or Firewall and it's hooked to the stock 51 shifter (that took a lot of work but worth it). If your running a flathead there will be some pan to frame work to do. If you want to run a S.B.F. a Bronco type pan will get it done.
    The Wizzard
     

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  5. flathead4d
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 898

    flathead4d
    Member

    Have you tried to adjust the steering box? There is an adjustment on top. It is a slotted screw with a lock nut. Jack the car up to take the load off of the wheels. Make sure the steering wheel is straight ahead. Loosen the lock nut and turn the slotted screw to take the slop out of the wheel. You should end up with about two inches of play when done. Tighten the lock nut while holding the slotted screw in place. It may take a couple of tries to get it right.
     

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