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Shoebox Brake Help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by adidasink, May 17, 2011.

  1. adidasink
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 160

    adidasink
    Member
    from Denton, TX

    So I am on a very, very limited budget...I have a 50 Ford Custom....and so far I have lowered the car using the aerostar springs, put 3 inch blocks in the back, stripped the interior and painted the dash, fixed the steering wheel, installed a Gennie shifter, rewired the entire car, swapped out the late model buckets for a more traditional split bench...work I have all done myself, with some sweat from some really good friends...hell I even learned how to do my own low buck auto upholstery by reskinning my door panels, kick panels, and rear panels myself....basically I have been trying to do all the work myself....

    Well...onto the brakes...the car has the original juice brakes...my first time dealing with them....and well..I bought new cylinders, rebuilt the MC, new shoes, and have some new rubber lines on order....

    Can anyone give me some great tips when dealing with these brakes? I took off the brake drum nut and still cant get the brake drum off so I can start replacing parts....any help would be appreciated!
     
  2. pecker head
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 4,017

    pecker head
    Member

    Did you back the adjusters off ?
     
  3. adidasink
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 160

    adidasink
    Member
    from Denton, TX

    I did not...I guess the dumb question would be do I need to? I can already guess the answer based on your post...but what the hell!

    By the way Pecker Head...I believe you and I share a friend...Tony M with the Nova...
     
  4. paulie_boy13
    Joined: Mar 1, 2005
    Posts: 269

    paulie_boy13
    Member
    from NC

    saying this to be helpful

    ebay 20 bucks buy a "green bible" its the shop manual for 49-51 fords...invaluable!
     

  5. adidasink
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 160

    adidasink
    Member
    from Denton, TX

    I actually ordered one on CD the other day...I am not sure it will get here by the weekend, and I am trying to get this finished up before then.
     
  6. Back off the adjusters ;)...your '50 is looking good, but I have a fondness for theses shoeboxes as you can see in my avitar :D...wish there were a few more around here to cruise with :eek:
     
  7. adidasink
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 160

    adidasink
    Member
    from Denton, TX

    Thank you sir!

    Also these adjusters how do I get to them with the brake drum still on the front axle?
     
  8. ginuine555
    Joined: Jun 17, 2006
    Posts: 104

    ginuine555
    Member
    from louisiana

    There is a slot on the backing plate. If you do not have brake tools you can use a screw driver. Slip it in the slot and feel for the star wheel on the adjuster and use the screw driver tip to turn it. This will allow for the brake shoes to pull away from the drum.
     
  9. adidasink
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 160

    adidasink
    Member
    from Denton, TX

    Awesome! Thank you so much!
     
  10. adidasink
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 160

    adidasink
    Member
    from Denton, TX

    Ok...I found the adjuster...then found the right way to turn it...drum still won't come off...spins very freely though..
     
  11. pecker head
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 4,017

    pecker head
    Member

    Keep jacking with it , it will come off ! And yes , me & Tony are buds !
     
  12. adidasink
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 160

    adidasink
    Member
    from Denton, TX

    Rock on....just thought I was missing something...and yeah..every time i see Tony he is always talking about your coupe...ha ha ha
     
  13. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,266

    rodknocker

  14. adidasink
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 160

    adidasink
    Member
    from Denton, TX

  15. olosipu
    Joined: Apr 2, 2009
    Posts: 25

    olosipu

    Read my post from June 1, 2009:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3978208#post3978208

    Specifically, this:
    BRAKES
    1) The drums can stick BAD. So make sure the adjuster is completely retracted with a flat head screwdriver (the slot in the bottom of the dust shield on back). Then get a small piece of metal at least one inch wide and a 1/4 inch thick. Place the metal on the lip of the rear of the drum and hammer towards you on the metal for a better/wider hitting surface. Repeat in a circular pattern until it comes off.
    2) After you take off the bottom brake spring, and you don't have the brake pivot tool (as seen in the green bible), you can twist the pads off/on in an up and out movement. Pretty easy. You will need a second person to put them on again.
    3) The small metal pressure line connections to flex hoses SUCK. Use plenty of heat on the metal flex hose connector, vise-grips will come in handy. Expect the rubber to POP! out as a bottle rocket, not a time to jiggle the torch.
    4) Blow all the lines out with an air compressor
    5) Should the front wheel bearings need to be repacked, try placing grease in a sandwich bag and re-packing them. Worked like a champ. FYI, most replacement wheel seals are flimsier than stock. But they should seat decent against the curve in the spindle. <!-- / message -->
     
  16. adidasink
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 160

    adidasink
    Member
    from Denton, TX

    Great info olosipu pretty much to a tee what you described...finally got the stuck drum off...had to use a puller to get it off...bearing was bad....
     

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