The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by old_chevy, Jun 30, 2020.
That not really a butt weld he's over lapping it
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Watch the whole video.
That's just to hold it in place for the final fit. The finished weld is a butt weld. A clever idea.
I saw this concept years ago in Mopar Muscle but they didn't do the 45* angle, just recommended a thin blade.
In that article they cleco'ed a quarter skin on, then cut between the clecos, split the outside above and the inside below, and peeled the unused parts out of the way.
I heard it was taken off the market years back because it wasn't good for structural repairs like frame members on unibody cars....Just something I heard don't know it to be fact....
we were told not to use it according to manufacture guidelines several years ago.
I'll be darn, that video is a major time saver right there. SO glad you posted it up!
Yep, there are a lot of good, straightforward tips at Fitzees Fabrication on YouTube.
I bought some of that wire and didn't really see any difference. never went back.
as for gap or no gap... I'd say I'm a gap guy. the size of the wire give or take when I can get it that tight.
I've done the overlap like the gas door video before but did not think of the 45 degree angle part.... I did however use a thinner 3" cut off wheel for my air powered grinder.
I also use my air grinder and two thin cut off wheels stacked to grind my welds. smaller, lighter and more control than a electric grinder.
No gap for me. I use a die grinder with a Burr bit (think large dentist drill) real ez to control on the bead and no danger as the cut off wheel episodes. The only problem is you will find little bits of metal over you and the garage.
I've never heard of a cut off wheel episode
he makes it look so easy in the video
Those burring bits cut fast and are effective.
However if the operator of the tool lets the
bit enter a hole or point where it can be in a pinch there can be problems. When using a burr on sheet metal it can bind in a hole and
gyrate from side to side violently! I have have a few incidents where one got away from my control and made a small hole an inch wide almost instantly. They can destroy a panel before one can let off the tool trigger. Now I am much more aware and cautious in use of them.
You can also get a box of stones in various configurations from HF, used to be about 10 bucks. They are a lot easier to control than the burrs are.
I like the burrs alright. They cut quickly and
can produce a nice smooth finish. I have a nice assortment of them, even a few that are
5/8 " in diameter. Very useful, but require diligence during use. I have a few stones as
well, but find the stones wear faster than whatever I am trying to profile.
This is from Robert at MP&C youtube series using a cut off wheel to dress a weld, I can tell you first hand it works great. If you go this direction I would recommend a long nose grinder, I find it gives me better control.
Whatever you weld with, and whatever gap you use, be sure when grinding the welds to use very coarse grit, and something you can control the accuracy of your grinding. I like my small grinder with 3" disc as it gives me pinpoint accuracy to ensure I'm only grinding the weld, and nothing else.
These videos contain a wealth of information including the 45-degree method of butt welding. Fitzee is a very basic guy who uses very few tools but who relies heavily on one of the most basic bodywork skills: patience. You will learn more from him than from anybody else I've had the pleasure of watching on YouTube. I have learned and used his techniques on my projects to great advantage. I'm not a professional so I have the luxury of going slowly and carefully. Fitzee also shows how to fabricate patch panels and repair panels where none are available commercially. If you've not seen his videos, do so. They are great!
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I thought the same thing at first, especially since the link was to a Bing search page. I stopped the video and looked to be sure the right one was running, then restarted and realized my mistake.
Thanks for the video, that will help me when I get around to the two rust holes in my hood.
wow this thread has been so helpful with some great tips. thank you everyone
Where I have the large gaps for the butt weld is on the floor pan. Since I can reach underneath I'm going to use some copper behind the weld. Is it ok to hold the copper backing when mig welding or would that give me a shock? Also when I use the copper backing to plug a whole or gap should I start the weld on an edge of the sheet metal or in the middle of the hole on the copper?
The weld will not stick to the copper so you would start your weld on the sheet metal. If you have a good ground on the metal you're welding, you won't get shocked unless your gloves are wet and your holding onto the metal. The problem with holding the copper while welding is that it will get hot in a hurry. You can use something like this made with a strip of copper, copper nail and part of a broom handle.
I bought a couple of different types of this.
They're not cheap but I found them to be worth it. Search for "VIM welding tools"
I have also been known to beat a piece of copper pipe flat and clamp it in place.
I can't weld with one hand so the hand held backing tools don't really help me.
Brass and aluminum will work the same as copper
Here's a few...
Here is one that really doesn't show grinding but it shows an example of what can be done when you take time and work carefully. All butt welded.
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