she hot and wont start!

Okay, here's the problem. I drive my 1950 Chrysler Flat6,six volt stock ignition for about 10 miles . Enough to get to full operating temp. And the the car dies...... untill it cools back off and then it does it again. I thought it was vapor lock but a heat shield and insulation around the fuel line eliminated that. It's getting fuel. I noticed that the coil is getting extremely hot, as in exh. manifold burns when you touch it type hot . Start with a new coil and go from there ? what would cause this? I dont want to keep going through coils, I would like to figure out the cause of this instead of just putting on band aids. {if it happens again}

 

its probably the coil, and id replace the condenser too

 

sounds like the ballast resistor is gone or bad. Too much Dwell could also cause this

 

Doubt it's the ballast resistor (but good guess) if it is stock 6V ignition that does not have resistor.

Coil or condenser sounds about right.

 

Coils are pretty cheap, throw one at it and see what happens -

 

try a coil. Coils have oil in them. Maybe the oil in yours leaked out over the years. Lack of oil will make it get hot and eventually it will explode..Been there, done that.

You can cool it off faster by spraying it with brake cleaner. Spray it until you can touch it and then start it. If it fires up, its definitely the coil.

 

Hey rubberrodder! I had this problem with my coil on my nova! It came down to some wiring from the distributor cross wired. It could also be the way your condensor is wired, you have a continuous hot leed going into the coil.

 

Is it a gel filled coil or is it the other kind?

 

dude long time no hear from! its the epoxy type,solid as a brick and good to anchor small ships with.

 

By "dies", do you mean it just shuts down like you turned the key off? If so i could see that being a coil or some other ignition problem. If it sputters or misses a bit first or backfires before it quits you might have an issue with valves being adjusted too tight. I worked on an old Dodge p/u with a flathead several years ago and was advised to set the lash a couple thousandaths loose, especially if you were trying to adjust things when the engine wasn't up to full temp. If the lash is too tight cold, when the engine warms up there can be just enough expansion that the clearance goes away and it will hold the valves open just slightly when they should be seated. This can cause it to backfire thru the exhaust or the intake but as soon as it cools down it will start right back up.

 

coil and ballest need replaacing

 

I have a 218 in a '53 Plymouth, and when it is cold it will start the first time it turns over. When it is warm I have to grind it two or maybe three times to get it to fire. I have not had any problems with it wanting to stall once running though.
CHAZ

 

Had the same thing with a brand new motorcycle. After 5 miles, it would quit. The third time I took it back to the dealer, I told them it was a coil. Once coil was replaced, it ran fine.

 

Okay folks, here we go again! put the NEW six volt coil off my Desoto on it. Still did the same thing! I checked for spark and I got it.{better spark than before though} I look down the carb throat and worked the linkage. No f#$%^ gas! Back to square one on the vapor lock issues! I'm thinking fuel pump is getting weak and not suppling enough fuel when hot. Going that route first,

 

I had a similar problem one time on a 40 Ford.
It turned out to be some trash in the gas tank that would slowly get sucked
up into the pick up tube until it stopped it up (about 10 minutes run time).
After sitting for a hour to an hour and a half,the trash would float back away from the tube enough for the pump to deliver gas again,then it would do it again!
I almost pulled my hair out until I finally figured it out.
That was in 1961 and my diagnostic skills were limited at the time.
Just a thought that you might check out.
Be careful checking that out. A gas fire is a real danger !

 

I am running into the same issue right now with my 49 Dodge with A 251 Chrysler motor..
Starts up and runs well, then It gets hot and stumbles out. I try to re-start it and it will not start.

 

Personally,I blame it on the "new" gas formulations.
Try taking a small cooler of ice with you and ice down the fuel
pump when it quits. If that brings it back,your dealing with
vapor lock.

 

Good Idea.. thanks..

 

Maybe fuel filter pluggin up. I had a bronco that I had just replaced the fuel filter but had a rusty gas tank, the thing kept stalling out on me and for some reason after I let it sit it would start up again, after replacing the tank, lines, pump I finally checked the fuel filter that I had previously replaced and it was plugged (from the old gas tank)

 

I just put 2 see through fuel filters on the car to see if that was happening: 1 at the tank, and 1 after the fuel pump.. It was all full of rust and now only gas.

 

Is your tank vented? maybe try a run with the gas cap off.

 

Always check the easy stuff first. Start at the carb filter, if it has one and work yourself back to the tank.

 

It's either a hot & cold coil or the ballast resister . Either one will do just that .
I would start with a new coil !

Retro Jim

 

I will pick up a coil. now lets see if they give me the wrong part again..

 

Basics! When it shuts off, pull a plugwire and confirm spark/nospark. You said you confirmed no fuel, changed filters, have fuel but it still dies, therefore you're getting another coil?

rarely does fuel and spark go out at same time on non efi cars

Is the carb getting abnormally hot and boiling the fuel off?(more of a v8 issue).

what type of fuel pump and where is it located?
fuel lines near heat?

Is the timing way retarded? Have you had to turn the dizzy forward more than a few degrees to bring the ignition in time (indicating a stretched chain)?

 

I have spark, I have fuel, I got another coil I think I have to mount it in a different spot because The og can with a mounting bracket that don't come off.. the feul pump is stock on the flathead 6 and does have a heat shield, the lines are about 2 inches from the exhaust..? vapor lock?

 

yeah, two inches may not be enough two keep the lines cool- try a temp heat shield with an air gap on both sides of the shield to see for sure.

If you cant easily get a shield in there, then disconnect the lines, and run a temp line out the engine bay and around to the pump avoiding heat that will tell the truth.

several feet of fuel line will probably be of use to you in the future so it's not wasted money,lol..

if that cures it, then get some solid line, a bender, clamps and make something pretty, and neat avoiding the exhaust.

Also- i heard once to mount coils with the 2 terminals facing down so they're covered in oil, should there be an air pocket inside. Dunno if that's bs or not, as that would just leave some other part of the inner windings uncovered, and also have the seam on the bottom, ready to leak.....

-rick

 

Still having the same issue.. I put the filters on and they are still clean. gas is a pumpin" I replaced the coil, but when she gets up to operating temp for about ten minutes.. THE DAMN THING SHUTS OFF. Going to store to get a condenser now.. then try again

 

Any ideas what to look for next?
anyone know over hand what is normal temp for these cars to run? I don't think that I'm overheating.

 

you still haven't been able to isolate whether it's a fuel or ignition issue?

can you make it do it only while driving, or will it do it sitting and idling?

if it'll do it while idling, rig a gravity feed fuel source straight to the carb (preferred), or an electric pump from a separate can and try again. This eliminates the whole fuel system EXCEPT the carb itself.