Howdy guys, I got a 61 Lark OHV 6 that im resurrecting from the dead. I replaced the water pump and T-stat as well as paint it all to look nice. I got a battery and am ready to put the valve cover on but i want to adjust the valves first. I heard somewhere i can have a voltmeter hooked up to check when each cylinder at TDC, but i cant figure that out. I have the positive line going into #1 plug, and the negative going to the generator bracket. Ive spun it around a few times and i still cant seem to get a hit on the gauge, but the car does start so i know i must be doing something wrong. P.S. there is no white chalk mark on the dampener, i dont know if theres supposed to be one but my Ford does, but i know this aint a Ford, it's its own breed. If theres an easier way, let me know. Thanks a lot, Ryan
If you have the specs just watch one cylinder when the intake starts to open adjust the exhaust and repeat with the others.
Take all the plugs out might help, at least for ease in rolling motor over. Stuff your thumb over the spark plug hole of the cylinder in question. Start in firing order. There's more than one way to sequence valves for adjustment (Like Roadster1927s above) though at TDC on compression stroke both valve lifters will be on the base circle of a cam lobe or near enough and lash can be checked/adjusted. It's not really critical to be at TDC exactly, there is a fair amount of overlap or whatever on either side, you can kinda tell when both rocker arms are loose, you're there. It is important that the lash is checked/adjusted when on the base circle though.
The firing order is 153624 to set #1 watch #6 when the intake valve is just starting to open it is at TDC exhaust and #1 is at TDC compression. Now watch #2 set #5 you watch the one half way down the firing order from the one you set.
The way I do it is to rotate any particular cyl to top dead center (TDC) while watching the rocker arms. TDC when the exhaust rocker is closing the exh valve, and the intake rocker arm starts opening the intake valve is called the "valve overlap". You want to stay far away from "overlap" so you can be sure the lifters are on the cam base circle, and not on any opening or closing ramp. So what I do is turn the crank to TDC at overlap when one rocker is closing and the other rocker starts opening, then turn the crank one full turn, or aproximate a full turn, to somewhere near tdc again. It's not super critical to be exactly there, but you do want to be far away from "overlap" This time you can be sure it will be near the end of the compression stroke and ready to fire the power stroke. That GUARANTEES both valves are closed and the lifters are on the base circle, and ready to adjust accurately. I do this with every cylinder. That way I don't have to memorize any shop manual saying "at this position you can adjust the intake on number z and number 7, the exhaust on x and y", then rotate until..." phooey on that. MY METHOD- (1) Pick a cylinder, (2) rotate till you see the rocker arms doing the "overlap", (3) rotate 1 turn which puts it in the compression/power phase where you are certain the lifters are on "cam base circle", (4) then adjust both rockers. (5) then pick the next cyl and repeat. Foolproof. That works with any 4-stroke engine regardless of firing order or crankshaft configuration, whether it is a 180, a 90 degree, or a 60 degree or boxer or whatever. You dont have to know the firing order if each cyl is done on it's own. I have been adjusting my daily drivers that way since 1971. I drive the family all over the USA with my Studies. wow, that's 47 years. how did I get old? thats not fair PS I just now saw that Truck64 posted a method pretty much like mine. I didnt mean to repeat WHY BE ORDINARY ?
If you ever need a spare OHV 6 cylinder engine and 3 speed from a Lark. I have one sitting in my back yard your welcome to.
I use chalk, too. On the ground. Two rows, thusly: Turn engine direction of firing order, to firing position of #1, TDC. Adjust #1 intake & exhaust. Cross it out, turn crank 120*. Adjust #5. (firing order) Reason for the two rows is that when adjusting the ones on top or bottom, is that the opposite cylinder is on 'overlap'. The two rocker arms on the 'overlap' cyl. are to be observed 'rocking' when moving the crankshaft cw & ccw about 2" either way at the dampener. The 'firing' cyl. is now ready to adjust. 1 5 3 6 2 4 If you want white chalk marks on the dampener, just draw them. Make sure from TDC #1 they are at 120* intervals. Good luck, but this is childs' play. (sp.: 'children's' play.)
Im actually flying to Oakland this summer to see Electric Light Orchestra but im flying not driving. Using air miles anf all we're flying for $12 roundtrip, so i csnt pass on that . Ill remember your name though so if i ever do a roadtrip with my Ranchero ill let you know. Thanks
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