I went to the vanpeltsales.com site for the instructions on setting the advance on the distributor. I set the point gap and then went to set the advance. The instructions say to line up the wider of the flat sides on the distributor shaft with the one mounting tab and it should be 3/8 of a inch to the vacuum port side. See picture below. When I set mine as such, I have to retard the timing all the way. I do not believe that is how it should be. Have others done it this way and what am I missing. I have three separate distributors on the bench and they all turn out the same. One of the distributors was out of a running motor and I had it advanced quite a bit. It ran better that way than with it retarded. Before, I set the advance by sound but thought this would be easier. Any suggestions or should I go back to my hit and miss method? Thanks. Neal
This should put timing scale near middle...? Are you rotating shaft in normal directioon to the timing point, moving timing lock bolt AWAY from vac brake to the firing break? Are you timing to second point opening? This method was published by Ford as a field expedient in the '46 Service book...usually puts it near middle. Search interference method for an easy way to establish accurate TDC mark if you need another route or a check...
with help from hamb friends, i just recently did this (im a long time mechanic, but a flathead newbie.) I used the diagram that you attached, and following correctly-- this sets the initial timing at 4 degree BTDC. I also validated the timing by using a degree wheel. 4 degrees is what i went with as a static setting. Then, before i put the distributor back on, i backed out the vaccum brake adjustment (that determines amount of advance) almost all the way. Then i ran the car in full throttle conditions to spur full advance and continued to adjust back vacuum brake until the motor didnt ping anymore. -scott noteboom
Bruce, I am setting it by the first point to open, the one on the left, opposite the screw to set the timing. I am turning the shaft in the direction shown in the picture. Counter clockwise from the front side, points side. I will go out and look it over again. I have a feeling that it will work, just figure out what I am doing wrong. Neal
Gotta get hold of someone with a digitous camera and shoot a crab tech encyclopedia...with the Mallory operating cycle...developed by Leonardo...
Yes, I was setting the timing by the wrong set of points. I was sitting out in the shop looking at the picture and saw where they labeled the left points. I redid two of them and they both worked out to be centered in the slot. Now I know that I often get things backwards but the following was taken directly from the instructions from vanpeltsales.com. "With the distributor shaft in the position shown, the left hand breaker points should just be starting to open. Note: the timing is controlled by these points only. If the points are not just starting to open, move the adjustment on the right side of the distributor down to advance the timing or up to retard it." They say that the adjustment is on the right side of the distributor. Wouldn't that mean that the left points would be on the opposite side? Well anyway, got it straighted out. Put one back into the car and started it up. Ran fine in the shop. Tomorrow will take it out and set the vacuum brake. Thanks again for the help. Need someone to tell me that the directions were correct, just me not figuring it out right. Neal
They usetabe posted on that site with direction incorrect on timing scale...gotta watch everything! Have a total crabtech article in me, but gotta find someone who can post pictures.
Hell, I end up running mine at almost full advance with almost no plunger. Runs great, no pinging. Next engine build gets a timing mark & pointer though!
Flat Ernie, Did you use this method or just by trial and error? On my Model A with a 59A motor, I marked the crank pulley when I had the motor apart. I set that one with a timing light. Have the timing advanced a fair amount and the plunger is down aways. With the light, have a little advance at idle and increases with some throttle. Runs good. I suppose I should back off on the plunger until it pings. Since I did that motor, I saw the posting of these directions plus I don't have the crank marked on this one. Neal
Any timing setting is just the starting point for experimentation...but it's good to have a known timing point to start from! You MIGHT like yours with less primary advance and much less on the plunger brake...they generally like limited static timing, then very rapid advance right off idle... Be sure to use interference of some sort to set TDC mark, as eyeball or even indicator can't get closer than about a 3 degree range on an engine with long rods and offset crank!
Bruce, I blocked off the top of no. 1 cylinder when the heads were off so my mark should be good. Neal
Bruce, could you please give a little more detail on this point. The how and why if ya got the time... Todd
I believe what Bruce is referring to is the age-old concept of putting a positive stop against the #1 piston, rotating the crank (slowly & gently) until it comes to a stop. Make a mark on the crank pully. Now rotate crank in reverse rotation until it comes to a stop. Make a mark on the crank pully. TDC is exactly between these two marks. His comment about long rods & offset crank has to do with piston dwell at TDC. Oh, J'st Wandering, I use trial & error until the heads come off next time - then I'll put a proper timing mark on.
So the piston dwell is why a dial indicator isn't very accurate? Sorry if I'm restating the obvious, I am pulling my engine this weekend and I'm trying to get as many little tricks before hand. I had planned on using the dial indicator to find and mark my TDC until I saw this post, and like E.F. Hutton, when Bruce speaks Flathead, I listen... Todd
Here's a more practical way to set the timing than the ruler method. A 3/8" bolt double-nutted in the distributor body boss acts as a flagpole to precisely define the edge of the mounting hole. Another 3/8" bolt tapped to a piece of flat stock is used as a spacer to set the clearance spec. I hook my multimeter to the distributor and adjust the advance until the points just close when the spacer bolt touched the flagpole. NOTE: flat stock is on the WIDE side of the shaft.
Hey, that only requires 2 hands! I have finally come up with a similar method for '32-41, which I'll detail after a couple more tests. After figgering it out, I found a Ford patent that illustrated it... The ruler method was only published by Ford for the '42-48's as a field expedient for those without KRW equipment or distributor machines. I've posted a degree wheel setup made with Home Depot parts for setting '37-41 dwell (and for identifying the bad repro points), which also works for '32-6 with very minor change in numbers. With these methods, you can ensure adequate setup and check out the quality of your tuneup parts so you have a solid basis for further hotrod tuning.
OK I think I got it. Dizzy turns counterclockwise viewed from front. Left point is driver's side point. Rotate timing screw clockwise until points break. Lock down. Right? And, if anyone is still here, 1) can I use the stock condenser with 12V system and 2) can I put a new piece of leather on the vacuum brake plunger or do I have to get a new plunger?
1. Yes 2. Turn old plunger 90 degrees...Hey! It's rebuilt! Or...punch a new leather out of your belt.
The condensor does not care the voltage, whether 6 or 12. Not that you asked but do you have a ballast resistor for the coil? I get lost on this stuff but I think you need one when changing to 12 volts to help extend the life of the points. Neal
Hadn't thought of that, but yeah, I'll have to get one. Thanks! So do I need to bother with the full 12v in start mode?
I don't think that I have it that way. They start so quick even when running though the resistor, that you should not have up the juice for starting. Neal
First flathead V8 I ever built, a '42 Merc done a couple years ago, got a pointer and TDC mark on the pulley. I'm too used to small block Chevys to not have a timing tab. Bob
It's so easy, why wouldn't you? Wire from "I" terminal on starter solenoid to positive (if negative ground) coil terminal and done. Bob
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