The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Aug 31, 2019.
Well look at it this way RoyBoy will hear us coming around the bend on the OMG Road.
see ya there
Binger, be safe and Hi to Mom. We were just in Denver a few days but didn't have enough time to come to Cheyenne.
I will say hi to mom for you. I will post pics of our adventure!
Klawockv: This is my opinion: the Pertonix modules (especially the 6v ones) are sensitive to voltage fluctuations and irregular grounding. Many/most of the FSI kits are going to be used in a stock Model A. Following their instructions to the letter ensures that FSI will have fewer callbacks or warranty replacements.
I suppose that power from the battery is more stable than power tapped from the generator/alternator or "another conveniently" located wire already in existence. Perhaps running the dedicated ground from the module to the interior of the car helps ensure less corrosion and a better long term ground.
Burl's advice to talk to FSI is solid, they are great knowledgeable people.
Hope this helps
from my personal experience DO NOT use wire wires (racing wires) . the electronics does not like them . use resistor wires …….
I did get through to FSI and yes they were informative. Their answer was what Pfred said about the sensitive micro circuits in the module. My system is a 12 volt but am running a 4-0 cable for the old 6 volt system. I had trouble believing (and still do) that a connection to the bolt on the battery would be any better than the attachment at the end of a 4-0 cable. The thinking at FSI, as I understand it is that the battery will act as a sink and absorb any voltage spike. We came to an agreement that it will probably work fine if its a dedicated line from the end of the cable to the ignition switch and then on to the coil. Of course that means there must be another switch to operate things like a fuel pump, tach and gauges. Considering the bad wiring design on stock model A's I can see FSI's concerns with hooking into stock wiring. My plug wires are Pertronix, so no problem there. Thanks to all for the suggestions. Should be ready for the first test drive by tonight.
ive had FSI for like 10 years . love it as no trouble except the wire wires . dependable & like the self advance …….
Brisk start to the run down to HRHC19!
Roadster ran really good til I got a tank of turpentine in Southern WY...
A jolt of Heet and retarding the timing Twice! (about 8 degrees) to run it, what a PITA! Limped down to Walden CO, topped up with good fuel, set the timing back up and did good rest of the way. I'll clean the plugs in the morning and other odds and ends. Still managed over 20 mpg for the trip so pretty happy with that!
Turpentine.... I take it that you are just being sarcastic about a gas station with really stale or really inferior cheap gas? I copped a tank of that crap at a one horse town, one pump gas station in Kern County on the way to Bakersfield once, that was a PITA... , truck wouldn't run worth a damn.... I put some octane boost stuff in at Bakersfield and more gas but it took ages for it to come right.
97- You got it my friend! Pretty much same scenario. It's been a long time since that's happened. To compound matters, it's a steady uphill for about the first 30 miles or so. Having to retard the timing that much made heat anyway and that didn't help. Pretty desolate stretch of road there.
really nice country . been there , cold up there . have fun
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I love this. Great idea. How will it be held in the block? Stock spring?
I guess there are a couple ways, stock style spring or tapping block to 1/4"NPT and running fitting deep to lock into the housing.
I was using one to prelube a motor last week, I have a -8 90 deg fitting pointing down and a pc of alum hard line.
I guess with the -8 line you could run it to the back of motor or into a sump trap if necessary.
I have many pix of my motor inside , but not so you can see the oil pump mount . what it is , simple explanation , a hold down clamp similar to an older chevy v8 distributor hold down fork . simple & works well ………..
Had to scrape ice off the seat before the reliability run! Cleaned the plugs and got by pretty well for the day.
We made the reliability run easily...except for misery mtn. Pulled out and met my nephew for lunch.
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When using 283 chev pistons with a miller head do the valve reliefs affect anything ?
Is it possible to purchase just 4 Ross 283 pistons?
not sure , but im running ross & they are good & never a problem . call them ……...
Had an awesome time this year at HRHC with friends and my brother
Yes, possible to purchase 4 Ross pistons.
However, you may wish to change a couple details on your build.
You mention the Miller head, typically, the pistons need to have some dome added to help increase compression.
In addition, you may want to change the ring package to more modern style.
Probably best to post picture of combustion chamber in head for us to see.
Good advise, as always, John! I went with JE pistons as they are slightly domed. However anytime you go to a piston of which the dome goes above the deck of the block, MOCK IT UP! If you deck the block or mill the head, again, MOCK IT UP! When as a kid, I didn't; and "Whah-La!" I created a great hand-grenade!
Made to the hotrod hill climb and had a great time.Reliability run was the best part of it.Made the whole way around including the trip up the oh my god road.Had my doubts about taking it the day before we were supposed to leave.The engine was pretty worn out and I had only drove it about 5 miles before we loaded it up and hauled it out there.Actualy ran pretty good got it up to 64 on the freeway detour to the main route.Lots of credit to brjnelson for pushing me and reassuring that all would work out.
Should have had a hamb meet and great looks like it was well represented
Yes, absolutely agree. Checking valve clearance is a must, piston chases ex valve so have some room available if float experienced.
I have a stroker build going on and the supplied pistons are too tall, calling this morning to order a set.
Testing the stewards is part of being a driver, keep them on their toes!!
Upgrading my pickup this month for RPM Nationals.
Putting a Thomas head and dual Zepher with a pair of 81s in an A block (B crank counterbalanced, B cam, inserts, oil pressure to mains, and oil filter). and adding a '39 transmission with the Cling's adapter. Also adding an FSI distributor
Kinda confused by the FSI however. I've only ever ran stock.
How do I go about timing it when I'm running a high compression head? Because the spark should be retarded some (compared to stock) but I'm not sure how to do with with the FSI distributor.
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