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Projects Seized up small block

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 4EyedTurd, Mar 22, 2014.

  1. 4EyedTurd
    Joined: Jan 20, 2014
    Posts: 35

    4EyedTurd
    Member
    from Texas

    The 350 in the '64 is locked up, even tho the previous owner said it was a running motor. Hell, everything was good at some point. Anywho, the distributer has been out of the motor and I can't spin it over so I pulled the plugs and dumped marvel mystery oil in and replaced the plugs. That was a week ago and I still can't budge the motor.

    Should I wait longer, try something else? Or just yank it all apart? What's the likely hood I could get away with rings, bearings and hone?
     
  2. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,251

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Depending on how much oil you put into the cylinders you may be lucky it isn't turning over.
    Leave the plugs out or you risk hydraulic locking the engine and bending a rod.
    If its locked that tight, pull the heads and have a look.
     
  3. M224SPEED
    Joined: May 12, 2010
    Posts: 171

    M224SPEED
    Member
    from Missouri

    You have to also consider the problem could be in the lower end crankshaft seized due to bearing & or rod failure,sorry no quick fix for that one.

    Good luck.
     
  4. MrForty
    Joined: Aug 31, 2011
    Posts: 83

    MrForty
    Member
    from Tustin, CA

    You didn't mention if the engine is still in the car. Make sure it's not something like the starter being jammed. We had an engine we thought was stuck only to find the starter bendix drive was jammed on the flywheel locking it up. Not common but we just had that happen. I'd pull the starter, remove all drive belts, pull the plugs and make sure the flywheel or flex plates not locked up.
     

  5. Im picking spun rod bearing......Ouch. JW
     
  6. Do you really want to trust an engine that had been seized up? There is more than likely some rust in it somewhere or some other reason that it would do more damage if you got it running. I would pull it all apart and rebuild it so I could feel secure that its right.
     
  7. bgaro
    Joined: Sep 3, 2010
    Posts: 1,189

    bgaro
    Member

    don't bother with it. them motors are a dime a dozen.
     
  8. BillWallace
    Joined: May 6, 2011
    Posts: 132

    BillWallace
    Member

    Where are those engines a dime a dozen?
     
  9. bgaro
    Joined: Sep 3, 2010
    Posts: 1,189

    bgaro
    Member

    at your local gm dealer, they come in a crate.
     
  10. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,728

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My pal Augie and I went to Merced Pick-n-Pull, 1/2 price day. He was looking for a SBC exhaust manifold, I opened the doghouse cover on a chevy van and found a NEW 'Goodwrench' 350, a tape tag on the speedo face said 170,6XX miles: engine.
    Speedo odometer now registered 172,XXX...
    Augie sat in the van 'til I returned with my portable toolbox. One hour later we had the 350 (with the exhaust manifolds he needed) in the bed of my F100, cost of NEW Goodwrench mill: $68.00.

    Not a dime a dozen, but a steal... (rear end damage to the van had 'totalled' it)
    That day we 'got the bear'...

    BTW, IF on the original poster's engine moisture had rusted the rings from sitting, Marvel Mystery Oil wasn't the best choice for soaking: PB Blaster is good, but on at least 10 occasions I have personally used a mix of 75% brake fluid and 25% WD 40.
    Brake fluid is excellent for this...IF it hasn't spun a brg, or some similar SBC ills...
     
  11. 54vicky
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,599

    54vicky
    Member

    I have used a mix of trans fluid and kerosene depending on how long it sat it needs time and patience.if out of car pull pan check for damage crank,rods.this only applies if it was not stored in dry location I.E. not out in area where rain could get on or in over time if it was left out pull plugs you will see evidence of water rust on plugs if so dont waste your time and money as stated.
     
  12. patterpillar
    Joined: Jun 16, 2013
    Posts: 83

    patterpillar
    Member
    from Montana

    My Dad had a "350" sitting in a shed near the eave. It had a rag stuffed in the distributor hole and the carb had a plastic bag on it. It would go mostly around. I pulled the plugs and the #4 hole was filled with water in the top 1" of wall. So off came the heads. I honed the rust out and the 74 "350" is a running 400. (the harmonic balancer was the dead give away)
     
  13. FuelRoadster
    Joined: Nov 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,082

    FuelRoadster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hell I'd get it running just to hear all the racket & (hopefully) see what completely fails first!
     
  14. Onemansjunk
    Joined: Nov 30, 2008
    Posts: 244

    Onemansjunk
    Member
    from Modesto,CA

    This is how they treat engines in the Golden State[​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

  15. 4EyedTurd
    Joined: Jan 20, 2014
    Posts: 35

    4EyedTurd
    Member
    from Texas

    Good news, after letting it sit for a few more days I decided to do something. I drained the oil to make sure there wasn't water in it and it came out nice and black and lumpy. After that I pulled the intake and valve covers and found a pretty clean motor, so I drizzled some atf on the insides and found that I could rock the balancer a little amount. So, I let some run down the intake ports and slowly worked the balancer back and forth and it didn't take much before I could spin it over. I'm gonna stick another intake and carb on it and see if it'll bust off. Thanks for the advice

    Edit: I rocked it back and forth by grabbing the crank pulley
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2014
  16. Good luck! We'll need video of when you light it up! :eek:
     
  17. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    A friend just ordered one. With all the necessary parts and bits to make it a complete engine, the final bill came in at a hair under $4,000......for a 290hp motor. Not exactly a dime a dozen. :eek:
     
  18. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 30,186

    Mr48chev
    Member

    You can buy a re-ring kit from Northern autoparts or a couple of other online vendors for about 80 bucks that has rings, rod and main bearings and a full gasket set. Pull it down, clean it up an hone the cylinders and you have a somewhat fresh engine that might get you 70K miles without much trouble.

    Or go find a decent running 350 that you can have some faith in as they are pretty easy to find.
     
  19. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547

    stimpy

    with me , I rather pull the heads and look, headgaskets are cheap , resleeving a cylinder due to rust and a broken ring isn't
     
  20. bgaro
    Joined: Sep 3, 2010
    Posts: 1,189

    bgaro
    Member

    $2101.99 reman/delivered. i just traded a used one for a snowblower.
     
  21. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    With everything from oil pan to air cleaner? Send me a link so I can send to my buddy to help him out. Thanks.
     
  22. 4EyedTurd
    Joined: Jan 20, 2014
    Posts: 35

    4EyedTurd
    Member
    from Texas

    I'm trying to not have to pull the motor because if I do I'll want to cram a big block in it.
     
  23. 4EyedTurd
    Joined: Jan 20, 2014
    Posts: 35

    4EyedTurd
    Member
    from Texas

    Success! I busted it off with open exhaust manifolds and it smoked at first which I expected and then ran good. I need to throw some mufflers on asap so I can hear how it runs.
     

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