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Seeking advice: Trimming flathead pan to clear '32 wishbone

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Junk Hunter, Feb 2, 2013.

  1. Junk Hunter
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 290

    Junk Hunter
    Member
    from The Ozarks

    The '32 chassis for my pickup project is all mocked up and I love the stance, but the wishbone barely clears my flathead pan under the starter area. There is no room for suspension travel. I really do not want to split or modify the wishbone. I plan to add the 4 leaves I've removed back to the front spring, but even with all of them installed I'm only going to have somewhere around 1/4" of clearance between the wishbone and pan. Depending on how much this raises the front end, I'll probably change out the current 4" dropped axle with one that has a 5" drop to make up for the additional leaves and get the stance back down to where it is now.

    I've searched around and have found a couple of threads where guys have mentioned trimming their pans for clearance, but have found no details. So I am looking for opinions, pros/cons, things to watch for, etc before I take a cut off wheel to this area and start carving.

    Any advice would be appreciated...thanks.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. We made some reference lines on my pan then removed it, clamped it to the bench, heated it and made a nice little dimple with a heavy pipe of an appropriate diameter. Looks quite natural. Your car has far more rake however. Great looking rig btw.
     
  3. Floorboardinit
    Joined: Dec 2, 2004
    Posts: 771

    Floorboardinit
    Member

    Here's the trick my buddies use, a wishbone spacer. I'm not sure anybody makes em though they really should. JohnnyA
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 4,667

    Andy
    Member

    I made a slit right at the bend. I cut the center of the slit out to about a half inch. I split the metal going away from the slit on the bottom. I bent the flaps down and welded everything. The metal is heavy and nothing warped.
     

  5. Junk Hunter
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 290

    Junk Hunter
    Member
    from The Ozarks

    Thanks guys. That's exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for.
     
  6. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,758

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Are you trying to use split bones? I don't understand your problem. I used original unsplit bones on both of these. A 32 wish bone on a 32 frame...no problem. The original radius rod comes nowhere close to the pan on my frames. Thy original wish bone has a cast section on the back that goes around the pan with the ball to hook to the frame.
     
  7. Junk Hunter
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 290

    Junk Hunter
    Member
    from The Ozarks

    Tommy - No I'm not using split bones. I'm using a stock 32 wishbone. I have a lot of drop in my front suspension and the k-member hits the pan under the starter mount as shown in my 3rd pic. Maybe don't think 'oil pan'...think 'starter mount' .
     
  8. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,886

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    With your amount of rake it would be interesting to check front end caster. I would think by adding a spacer above the wishbone ball it may return it to 7 or 8 degrees.and help starter clearance.
     
  9. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 4,667

    Andy
    Member

    The pans have different contours. The early pans have more clearance than the later ones. The starter clocking is also different. I needed the clearance with a stock frame,wishbone and front end. I have a 59A engine and pan sitting on stock 32 mounts.
     
  10. flatoz
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,153

    flatoz
    Member

    I'm with Tommy,

    you shouldn't be having any trouble and you don't have that much rake really. What about a different sump/ oil pan. or raise the motor at the front a little?

    Also are they 8BA style water pumps your using on an early block?

    At worst case, the area your talking about doesn't hold oil, so a little 'fixing' with a 4lb hammer wouldn't be an issue.


    http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff305/ranchodeluxe/L1020308.jpg

    this is lowsquires, his is the only car I can currently think of running the original radius rod and early block that I knew I could find a photo of. You should be able to get this sort of clearance. I hope you sort it out, as its these things that can really be a pain!
     
  11. Junk Hunter
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 290

    Junk Hunter
    Member
    from The Ozarks

    Here's a better pic of the crossmember and pan. The flathead is a 99A. I don't know what this pan is off of originally. That motor has been piecemealed together at some point in it's life but I have another '46 59A setting in the shop and the pans both look the same with what look like the same contour.
     

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  12. Junk Hunter
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 290

    Junk Hunter
    Member
    from The Ozarks

    That's what I'm thinking. It's an easy enough problem to fix..I'm just a little curious now as to what it is that is not keeping it from fitting like you guys say it should.
     
  13. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,095

    alchemy
    Member

    Hard to tell how close you are with those pics. Have you cycled the axle up and down the full range of motion? Take the spring out and give it a try.

    If you have maybe 4 inches of travel at the axle, it will translate to 1 inch travel 3/4 of the way back, where that close spot is.

    If you add one of those spacers (Vern Tardel's website has them) under the wishbone ball, you will gain both another 3/4 inch of clearance, as well as more caster. And who couldn't use more caster?
     
  14. hellrod666
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 26

    hellrod666
    Member
    from seattle wa

    Early pans will give you more wishbone room. I use 33/34 ones most of the time. But I have hammered a indent for later pans too. If you take your time it will look like it came that way. The bones dont move that much that far back. And use a 32 rear axle bump stop on each side where your spring will hit the frame. And that should take care of your problem.
     
  15. hellrod666
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 26

    hellrod666
    Member
    from seattle wa

    A reverse eye spring will help you lower it with out having to buy a new axle.
     
  16. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,562

    Elrod
    Member

    Yeah. They still sell them at the Model A houses.

    http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/496

    [​IMG]


     
  17. Floorboardinit
    Joined: Dec 2, 2004
    Posts: 771

    Floorboardinit
    Member

    Nice but Model As aren't the same as '32s. I've already made that mistake. JohnnyA

     
  18. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,562

    Elrod
    Member

    They can be made to work.... I've got a 32 Model A 5 window roadster.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2013
  19. Junk Hunter
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 290

    Junk Hunter
    Member
    from The Ozarks

    OK. I've got a better plan now. I'm going to start with the spacer before I decide if I need to mess with the pan.

    Vern's web site says his 'radius rod cap kit' is temporarily unavailable and it sounds like the Model A version won't fit...since I don't have a '32 Model A 5 window roadster like Elrod does.:rolleyes:

    Anybody know of another vendor for the '32 version? Looks like everybody carries the one for a Model A. Could it be modified to work on a '32?..what's different?..ball size?
     

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  20. hellrod666
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 26

    hellrod666
    Member
    from seattle wa

    The bolt spacing is wrong and they dont fit into the crossmember. maybe some grinding and filing out holes you could maybe make it fit. I would make one before I did that tho. They are made to add castor to your frontend. You will have more then you need already when you drop the frontend that much. If you can dig up a early pan it will give you the room you need. Or dimple the one you have now. Everyone has been doing that for years. Thats one of the reasons people have been splitting bones for years.
     
  21. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,682

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Two 1936-6 caps equal one complete ball socket, then build a spacer. I think Tardel now reproduces the caps...
    I can't imagine why there's a problem, but without craling under there...??
     
  22. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,562

    Elrod
    Member

    Hmm. Didn't know that.
    Have you tried calling JobLot? (718) 468-8585

    The cap part number is 3440
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2013
  23. Junk Hunter
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 290

    Junk Hunter
    Member
    from The Ozarks

    One reason I'd like to start with the spacer instead of the pan is because I also have a juice brake conversion kit (made by Early V8 Garage) with a brake pedal arm that mounts real close to the other side of the wishbone and I would like to gain a little more space there as well...I'm going to keep that early pan in mind though.

    I wondered if a couple of caps would work. I have a handful of 35-40ish caps.

    Tardel is out of stock.

    Anytime you want to visit the Ozarks and crawl under my pickup you are more than welcome to stop by. I would love to pick your brain for a day! Hell, I just might pay for the plane ticket.

    Well, you knew more than I did Elrod. I'll give JobLot a call in a bit.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2013

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