Nigel -- Thanks for the good word on the car. When I got the motor from Dick it was without the carbs, so I purchased a fresh rebuilt set that run 51 jets in both carbs and have 4.5 power valves. You can see from past pictures that I am running the same intake & two carb plenum that Dick ran with the only change being that I milled main carb hole out as big as I could (about 2.65" and epoxied all the water jacket that I cut through. The only reason I am running Dicks old setup is to see what the motor will do, Dick never had a chance to run all out for a time slip. I will change over to an Offenhauser 4bl manafold with a Vintage Air 2x2 adapter and run the car at the finals this year with that setup. I am looking forward to my first pass, will be good getting back in the seat after a 7 year layoff. Tom Don -- As I said in a few posts back, I have been running a car at Famoso for over 40 years and I have found that if you work with the Tech guys it's all good. Ya I think most of the rules that NHRA has put on these cars is "OVERKILL" but it's their playground and if you want to play you got to go with them. A lot of guys have the advantage of some outlaw tracks in their area, but NHRA has control of most all the tracks in CA, AZ & NV. When I had the car tech at the ANRA race a few weeks ago all the item's they wanted changed were small stuff, they had no problem with any chassis stuff. Our tech guys at Bakersfield are better than most I have found. Tom
Well I got a short video of the motor running & she sounds real nice for a little Chevy 194 with a small cam. Its on You Tube under - SDRA startup old28 I do not know how to carry it straight to my post so you will have to go to You Tube and pull it up. This younger generation (and I mean 12 & below). I had the boy across the street (11 years old) take the video with his new IPad that he got for getting straight A's this past year in school. He shot the video and posted it to You Tube in about 30 seconds. I don't even know how to turn one on. The great part about this is that his 8 year old brother can run it just as well. Talk about making me feel old. Gotta love them.
Drewfus -- Thanks for the good word. I think I have the two 94 carbs set pretty close now and I replaced the points in my Delco distributor with a Pertronix setup and it looks like it will work out fine. I will say the little 194 has surprised me, it sounds strong with just carb & cam change. bobw -- That's Tom the "medical wounder guy" ( they wounder what will go wrong next). All that aside, I feel 90% back to normal, what ever that is. This little motor sounds real strong for engine that needs head & short block gone through. It ain't no 292 but it will do for now. I was pleased to see that I could run the motor at different RPM's for 5-6 min with the outside temp at 100 deg and the car only got up to 195 deg with the water pump and electric fan on. I should get my seat back next week (they are doing a black pleated insert with some padding) and then maybe a street test. I hope to T&T later this month.
Guys, Got A Question ????????????????? I have had this old Sears Dwell-Tachometer for ever, have not used it for many years and don't have the instructions. Can any one tell me were the GREEN & BLACK wires connect.
300racr - Thanks. It is even a bit better after I converted a spare Delco points setup to Pertronix unit. Idles better and is a little smoother. The old points unit had a bad bushing in the bottom that was letting the shaft move all over.
Black is ground. Green goes to the (-) side of the coil for RPM and Dwell readings. For voltage checks, Black goes to ground and Green goes to the (+) side of the load or device you are measuring. I have a similar Sears unit & the instruction booklet. I can copy the good parts and send it to you if you want. Sure nice to see you are getting close to running your car.
Thanks Bob, I put it on our other favorite place R-- and got an answer in 5 min. That is a great group. Don't need the sheet, I will copy your notes and tape it to the back. I really want to get it out on the street so I can make sure the brake system works as it should. I don't have a Tac on the car as of now, so I need my portable unit to set the idle so it won't get down to low when I put it in gear. Still have to get my buddy Danny to weld the new Rosetta spots that tech wanted redone before T&T. My grandson call yesterday and said it was 99 deg with 89% hummity in Fenton, MI were they live. Is it about the same at your place? It's normal summer here 95-108 deg but only 10-20% hummity.
102 Yesterday with tropical humidity. Low 80's today with tolerable humidity. That's Minnesota, great variations in weather. Should be in the 60's tonight. If we could only bypass winter... Yes, I see that Dr. C was quick with a response. I'm almost as excited about your "street test" as I am about mine.
Thanks Bob, it has been a good build. Seems like 2 years, but I have been set back with Medical a few times. I know that there will be a 100 changes after I start running. I would love to make these last two races and then start on the bigger 250 motor build during the off season. I think I have asked all the questions and most of the answers for building a strong 250. If I was going to build just a mild motor in basic stock form I would do the 292, but the performance parts for it are way more dollars than I want to spend. I am going to build a complete 250 motor so I can keep the 194 all together so I can do a complete engine swap. I am going to use my Offy 4bl Alum intake with a 390 Ford 4bl carb that way the two Holly 94's can stay with the 194 motor. It needs a set of rings and valve seals in the future.
All the best. BTW I actually have 194 Chev pistons in my slant six. Dont tell anyone. it was a huge overbore and I had a very early block I did it on (1962). I got extra cubes. (now 246 cu in) and a good rise in compression was well. Pin size difference was corrected on the Sunnen rod hone in a matter of minutes. I am in the sixth year of running this engine. Lots of Video on Youtube under Senior Dragster Have also built several 250 Chev for folks as well as 300 Fords. The 250 Chev is a slam dunk with the 307 early NOS 1968 Pistons. The 300 works nice .050 over with 390 pistons. And of course there are aftermarket forgings available for those with extra gold to spend. Me? I really really enjoy going fast Cheaply. Don
Dolmetsch -- Well Don the cats out of the bag now on those slant 6 modifications, ever one will want one. Thanks for the information, I did not know that about the 300 Ford stuff and 390 pistons. What kind of CR can you get out of that change? I plan on going the 250 w/307 piston route. I am going to do a full lump port job on a 72cc head with 194/160 valves and springs to support 550-600 lift. With .060 off the head & -0- deck the block it works out to 10.25 CR. I will still be able to run premium pump gas like I want too. Whats the deal with the early 307 NOS 1968 Pistons? Tom
Late 307 pistons from some manufacuturers have such a large relief around the edge that very little compression will be gained. If you could see the two side by side it would be immediately obvious. I would have to check back in my records or check with my pal Harry which are the good ones available today that will work properly. I think I will just talk to him in the morning. We have done so much together over the last 40 years we keep no secrets from each other. In fact he taught me the 307s in a 250 trick many many years ago. A lot of Piston companies now when they make a replacement make it so it services older and newer engines both which basically means it is not correct for either. 300 Ford with 390 pistons is above 9 to 1 but not quite 10 if memory serves me. Piston weight was believe it or not IDENTICAL and pin fits too. The 250 does not require a huge cam. You need no more lift then max flow lift. Often above that it goes backwards. The best profile I ever used in a 250 was a factory solid profile but not for a six cylinder. I had acustom grinder I have dealt with for 40 years put it on the 250 cam core. He had to adjust the lobe centres to squeeze it on the six core but it was a relatively minor deal. Engine won New York State Vintage Stock car second place overall for the year and has run also on the Indy track and Daytona. It was in a 35 chev sedan. I didnt build the motor but I did all engine specing and design and all the machine work . It had the floor plates in the head. I made the valves from V8 cores. Last I heard it was still running in Florida and is still competitive. Cost was so low I wont even tell you because no one will believe us anyway. It would do well in a drag car. Fast and reliable. Broad power range. Email me privately I can tell you the profile. You need a willing cam grinder too. I have had great success lately with Chris Ryan at Comp for making me stuff I need for my six quickly and properly. The last wierd request he processed and shipped the same day. When you are experimenting you need someone like that who will just git er done and not argue or second guess you. Of course You yourself have to be willing to fail and eat your mistakes as well. But tis a small price for the progress you make. Anyway The profile for the 250 is nothing wierd. It just works. Top RPM is 6000 for power. You may want more but this one works anyway and has proved itself after 12 years of running with the shortblock never touched. Don
Tom asked me to post this here on his build thread so here goes. This is my last race at Picton Airfield. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v3No_qOj9I Picton Airfield is a old WWII Army base located high on a plateau above the old historic Ontario Town of Picton. Picton is for all practical purposes due north of Rochestor New York accross the lake. (Picton is where the Rum Runners went from during US prohibition sneeking "liquid sunshine" into the US.) We run a full 1/4 mile currently . We have spotters at the end and a PA system. Each and every run is video tapped. . Typical day is just over 1000 spectators. (Last meet had 1015.) Racing would be 140 to 150 entrants plus a car show area and last time a bike show area as well. We run on Saturday starting at 12 noon and by 5 pm have approx 600 to 645 runs in. tis exactly like it was in the 60s. Crowd control is excellant . No trouble with people getting too close. Paremedics and food on site. FUN in buckets. Our dates this year were May 19 and next is Sept 22 I cant think of anything else Tom. Don
OK people Pull up the video that Don posted at my request. IT Don't Get Much More Old School Drag Racing Than This. Another Old Air Field Put To Good Use & Fun For All. Thanks Don PS: Maybe find 2 or 3 more like this and Eagle Field and we can all take a road trip some summer to race on these Air Field with Flag/Arm Drop starts and spotters at the finish to call the winner. Any takers?
That would be sweet. Barnstorming like IVO and prudomme did back in the day. I can only read about that stuff but it sounds awesome. I like the ellijay ga dragstrip videos on youtube.
injected27 -- Ya Jason, that would be fun. Cool little race track, twice a year, lots of fun & nice turnout of cars for this type racing. I installed a couple of Moon angle breathers on the valve cover out of necessity more than style, but I will say I think they look real nice. This motor needs a set of rings and some valve guide seals. Maybe later or just build the new motor after this season.
Man that looks great. I am still a ways out on needing them. I will get there. I will get there soon. Just need some time to work on mine.
Ya Jason, thats the good and bad for me, being retired I have lots of time for projects, the bad is not so much cash for those projects.
A friend I race JR's with and I where having a discussion about the cost of racing. My friends father chimed in and said the price of racing had not changed one bit in 40 years. With a very puzzled look on my face I ask him how he came up with that. He explained to me it to every penny he could get 40 years ago and it still took every penny. So working or retired we are all giving it all we have.
just putting parts together and i realy liked your steering box idea of using a vw box... so i have to ask if you did another car would you use a vw again ??? also what front spindals did you put under your car
injected27 -- Sounds good but I am not putting every penny I have in this HAMBster ride. When I get this car done I will have around $6500 in it, I had $25K in my last NE-1 dragster and it took another $20K to run it all season. No more of that kind of racing for me. The only thing the two cars have in common are that I built them the best I could and made sure they were a safe ride. It's all about having fun with friends and making passes. moracing -- The answer to the VW steering box is yes. It is a small box that is easy to mount & setup the shaft extensions. (ThingyM) has the same box in the car he is modifying to a SDRA ride. I would purchase a new rebuilt unit if I did another one so you know every thing is good inside. The spindles are Ford 1935-36 and I had to do a lot of work to make them fit the wide Lincoln axle. I would not use these again, but they were with the frame when I got it. I would use 1937-41 Round back or 1942-48 square back as they fit most all standard and drop axles and the kingpin kits are available all over. The hubs will depend on what rims you want on the front.
Tom, it may be a "senior moment", but I didn't realize you had a Lincoln axle under the front of the car. We're running a Lincoln Zephyr axle under ours. Didn't have your problem with the spindles as I got the axle with spindles attached. I like the extra width.
I make my front axles here using whatever spindles someone will give me. Not a particularily difficult job. Actually I think racing has gotten cheaper if you use a bit of restraint. . And in retirement going to a six vintage style car can be a real joy. All the fun and none of the hassle. And because you have the knowledge accumulated over many years of running a modern racer you have a distinct advantage. The real trick is to discipline yourself not to get carried away. I ran a 74 Charger in Super Pro for many years with my nephew. We did real well with it finishing in the money enuf to pay our way. We were good enuf everyone hated us. (That is how you know your doing well. The faster you get the more unpopular you become) This little SDRA drag car which is low $ (I allow up to $100 per month for racing (inclusding fuel and entry and car maintenance) has been the most fun and least hassle of any car I have ever run. It is also extremely interesting to find improvements without $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. I am sure you are finding also so. BTW Dave M told me that is actually out of pocket cost for the winning 250 chev six was $487. I donated the machine work but he paid for everything else including the custom ground cam. They were racing against Baker 6s which he said cost some up to $12000 (I dont know . That is just what i was told) and were spanking them everytime. Which just reinforces that old saying "Old age and cunning beats youth and $$$$$$$$$$ everytime" Now i understand that s hard to believe but that is what he said. Pistons he got were free. Machining was free. Cam gaskets lifters springs and rings and bearings and flea markets early SBC rodbolts (Mr Gaskets SPS). If that isnt cheap racing I dont now what is. He is still around if you wanted to question him just out of curiosity. Very sharpe tuner! Don
64 DODGE 440 -- Ya Tom, I agree. The front is about 2" narrower than the rear and looks good with a relatively short frame 120-130". The old 1935-36 spindle mounting was one of fords (NOT) better ideas. No thrust bearing on bottom, the weight was on two shim. It is a very small gap and I located some .175 thick roller bearings that I could shim up to fit. You have to take a later 1937-41 Kingpin and re-notch and shorten it. Would have been a lot easier to run 37-41 round back spindles. Dolmetsch -- Don, you are right on when building one of these HAMBster hot rods in that I really had to hold back on just buying all the parts new and get out there and find used parts at swap meet and on the Internet. I think if you had all the work done and purchased new parts you would have $12,000 - $15,000 or more in a car that is going to run 11.25 or slower.
injected27 -- Jason, these are the last two cars I ran from 1994-2010. The dragster shot is of my wife at Bakersfield, CA on the top end. This car ran NE-1 & Pro 7.0 (7.50 & 7.0 index). Best pass off the index was a [email protected] in AZ. Motor was a home built 468 BBC all iron motor, blowen & injected on alcohol with a PG. The 1928 altered roadster was a NE-2 (8.50 index) car that ran a best off the index [email protected] at Woodburn, OR. The body was a true street rod unit with all the bracing, not a real light drag body and the car weight was 2113#. Motor was a another home built 501 BBC all iron with a tunnel ram and injection on alcohol. Wish I could have keep the dragster as it was the best handling car I ever ran and the old school lettering and paint style was all 60's. Lace inserts in the paint and gold leaf lettering all old school hand work.
The Jalopy Journal
