So. I've been collecting stuff for a couple of months now and it's finally in a pile that looks like the other pictures of build-starts. The engine is a 1959 Chevrolet 235. The transmission is a turbo 350 and the two are coupled with an adapter from Langston. The rear end is a 1972 Jeep Commando with a factory-stock 3.73 gear. Steering gearbox is 1972 Mopar "bullet". Steering wheel is 10" Ebay purchase. Driver is 1942 model. I'll be asking for help because some of this stuff seems not to fit exactly right.
Looks good so far. Most of the bits and pieces'll likely take a spot of cobbling at any rate, but that's the fun of the build. Just a personal opinion but I think our own team's first year "boomer" series ('46) driver is a tad better'n our '42 model (take that, Russ ).
I know you already have it but the Turbo 350 is going to rob you of some HP over a glide. If the oportunity comes your way to trade the 350 for a glide take it. You will have a light weight car that doesn't need the extra gear that the turbo has. Otherwise congrats on another great start and hope to see you at the track soon. Roy
Yes, I'm aware of the parasitic loss. I've seen some believable figures that said a Turbo 350 soaks up 31 to 33 horsepower while a Powerglide consumes 15 to 18. But, a friend gave me the 350 and I can change it later. I decided that if I try to get everything just right I'll never get it built.
You are right even if you run a stock engine and the 350 build it and run it. You can add things as you go along. I assure you that 80 mph in an open car seems like you are flying. The fun thing about SDRA is that you keep racing until the end. There is no run once lose and it is over. You can race and try out things to improve the car. Roy
Update on Houston SDRA car. Talked with "Mudflap 261" and he said he would reserve a name and number ont the SDRA Website...I've chosen "Red Flame Six" and the number "235". Measured the nearly tacked-togetherr lower frame rails plus the distance to the front axle and came up with a slightly-longer-than expected wheelbase of ...123 and a quarter inches plus several of those itty bittty marks. I will have pictures posted tommorow after I pick up the 517 tools I've drug out to do this work.
Some pictures of the frame. It is made of 3" x 1 1/2" .090 rectangular tubing. Here's a do-it-yourself tip...this size tubing is so close to ordinary 2x4 studs that you can build the frame mock up out of ordinary lumber and long sheetrock screws then transfer dimensions to the tubing directly. That way you won't have to deal with all those "itty-bitty" marks they put on tape measures. I actually did that but I didn't post any pictures fearing ridicule. It sits lower than most of the other cars I've seen on this thread. But, it is a mistake I consistently make on every car I build..too low. Next, I'll build the cage too small for me to get into and breath at the same time. Now I need some help getting a small radiator. In a previous thread some one said that Chrysler mini vans had small radiators. Is that correct? I can't find the thread now and need some help with year/model,etc. Thanks for any help you can give
Hi Butch, you might have seen my old line. The 1984 dodge mini van with a 3.0 v6 has the radiator on one side and the a/c condenser to the side of it, it is a fairly small one. That might be 84 to 95 with the 3.0. It will cool one of those with a soccer team of kids and the a/c going. so it cools my slant 6. it has a nice little fan on it. Your wheel base is about the same as mine. Good luck with your build. let me know when you do your first burnout, so I can ad it to my list. Joe
Butch I have a Hugo raditator with fan that is in great shape. It will work perfect for a lay down raditator. I want $80 for it, that is what I paid for it. I have an aluminum raditator for my car now so I don't need the Hugo. Roy
Butch, Most of the import cars with a 4 cyl. have usable radiators. Most come with a fan. Some heater cores will also work nicely. Just don't get carried away with water pump speed, it doesn't take alot to do the job. As for the tranny, please keep us informed how it works out. You could be on to something with the extra gear and the right rear gear to use the torque of that motor. Just my thoughts. Go for it, and good luck.
Just got a PM from 'Flap 261 pointing out that .090 wall tubing is too thin to meet the rules. Gave me a couple of bad moments as I hot-footed it to the garage and measured the thickness...it's .125". On using the turbo T350 vs. the PG, when I ordered my adapter and flywheel from Langdon's Stovebolt I indicated I was going to run a PG and he responded that I should run a T200 or T350...and this guy only does Chevrolet six stuff. He further said that it did not make any difference as far as the adaptor/flywheel/ starter are concerned. So I ordered the adaptor setup. Then my buddy gave me a T350 so that's how it got into the car. I guess we'll see how it works. I think I'm going to run the stock converter he gave me because if I change to 'glide the T350 converter won't work. Thanks for the radiator tips.
Well, I'm probably building myself into a corner. The tapered frame rails have not been a problem in themselves but then I have not started to mount any kind of radiator yet. The combination of a low-slung frame and a straight front axle has, however, led to very tall front spring perch... on the order of 11-12 inches. That should not be a problem other than the front end may look like a commodore at feeding time.
Butch, I really like your build. The tapered rails look nice. Regarding the 350TH vs Glide; I have a 2100lb car with about 300 hp, 3.70 gear, tight converter. It ran a 7.63 1/8th mile with a Glide and a 7.52 with a 350TH. No other changes. Leave the line at idle and just floor it. 60 foot time went from 1.88 to 1.76. So, I think with a low horsepower, light weight car, the 350TH might be a good choice. Bob
Uggghhh! you are correct. There is interference with the starter...I will have to look into a small gear type starter. One of those might get me out of this bind. Secondarily, is there an SDRA Race May 9th at Tulsa? The SDRA Website says there is but the Tulsa Raceway Park sited does not mention it ...Tulsa seems to show May 29 as the first SDRA race.
Gentlemen, The SDRA rules and race dates can be found at www.tulsaracewaypark.com, forum/Nostalgia Racing. HA/GR cars are welcome and invited to race with us. This will save a little time. SDRA Race Dates 2009 9 events at Tulsa 29 May 26 June 10 July *11 July Nitro Nationals (np) 24 July 7 August 21 August **22 August Mokan (np) 18 September 2 October 9 October (np) non points ** Run Tulsa Fri. - Mokan Sat.
Thanks for asking. I hope to have the chassis in "roller" status by tomorrow and I'll get some pictures posted. I had an experience last night in the garage that sent me reeling into the house and onto the couch. It happened like this...I needed a piece, I drew up the dimensions, I made it and put it on the car. It fit the first time! I was so stunned by this turn-of-events that I could not go any further. I will resume work tomorrow when my brain clears.
Please try and avoid this in the future, you are making the rest of us look stupider than we already are.
Congratulations on your stunning success! I've searched for drill bits that create elongated holes, then maybe I could get a part to fit the first time.
Okay, it's a roller now! Actually got it rolled out last night too late to take pictures. Car is sitting a little lower than it should in the middle because of sag condition due to incomplete welding on the overlap joint and lack of superstructure on the back of the car to support its "spine". I'm pointing to the piece that, inexplicably, came out right the first time. I'm pointing twice because I only had to make the part once, I've often thought that building a one-off car really represented two cars: the one you built wrong and threw away part-by-part and then the final version.
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