scratch-built "A" frame

I've started scratch-building the chassis for my '30 ford p/u. I'm using 2x4x.125 rectangular mild steel tubing. The front of both rails are done with the exception of the inside taper of the horns. I'll wait to do that until after i'm sure where the front crossmember is going.
Before i move onto the next phase, i have a few questions for the guys that have built model A's.

(1) About half way back, the original frame rails kick-out slightly. (see attached file) Is this nessesary to ad strength to the frame? I was thinking about just running the rails straight with no kick-out in the center. I know it would affect the bed and rear cab mounts, but that's minor. The forward body mounts won't be affected.

(2) I'm using a rear end from a S-10 and coilovers. Generally speaking, if i step-up the rear of the A's rails 4 inches, will that give me a good stance and clearance to run fenders. The stance i'm shooting for is to have the fender opening completely filled with tire, without rubbing. I plan on using 15" rear wheels and as much tire as i can fit.

I know some of this isn't "traditional", but there's alot of people on here with A's and i'm hoping someone will be able to help me, or at least point me in the right direction.

 

if you want to run stock fenders/running boards/running board braces/body/box/hood etc in their original locations i would keep the dimensions and shape of the frame as close to original as possible. with a 4" kick up in the rear you would have to change the bed floor...with a 2" kick up you should be able to use the stock floor in the bed

 

Thanks 36-3window. Not to disaggree with you or anything, but I'm not sure how familiar you are with model A's. There's a few things you might not be aware of. Below is a scan that i think came from the HAMB. The green line is the bed floor level. The red line is the top of the frame. The sheet metal between the red and green lines is just a filler to hide wood that goes between the frame and the bed. I beleive the wood is about 4" high. So by kicking up the rails 4" and eliminating the wood, would not affect bed heighth. Also, as mentioned in my post, all original body mounting locations forward of the purple line would still be used. I don't mind fabricating new mounts for the running boards or anything else for that matter. That stuff would be easy compared to making the rails. My questions have more to do with strength and stance.

 

You can run a 4" kickup with no trouble and a flat bottom in the bed. You can also run an S10 rearend with no modification and run full fenders. I fabricated a set of coil cups and run coil springs on my roadster pickup. Do a search for my post "How to build an early hotrod frame" and you will see some pictures of the set-up on my model A.---Brian

 

well , yes...the 4" was an guess/estimate on my part , i should have said check yours carefully to make sure

as for my experience with model A's....i have built a `29 pickup , `29 tudor sedan, `28 tudor sedan, `30 roadster and i'm currently building a `28 pickup for myself

 

36-3window--You get a new avatar???---Brian ---- Vintin--you don't really NEED that kink half way down the frame, but the splash aprons are configured to work with that kink.

 

I think i used a piece of 2x3 on top of my 2x4 main frame at the kickup, my bed sits about a 1/2" above the frame. A 4" kickup is plenty i can't go much lower without hitting, it rubs now when i take off hard with the tires i have (255-75-15).

 

Brian, i'm glad you responded. I followed your build a few years back on another site. But that site has changes so much i can't seem to find your build anymore. I knew you were on the HAMB too but could not remember your name/handle. Your bright yellow truck in your avatar gave you away.
I did a search as you said and found your post. It looks like you also kicked-up the frame with 2x4 tubing. So what's your opinion on not kicking out the frame rails midway back? It would sort of be like a pro-street chassis, only milder. I figure the less i cut and weld, the less of a chance i have to fudge it up. Would this design be weaker then the original?
By the way, i love your truck.

 

Oops, sorry Brianangus. It looks like you already answered my question while i was typing. What springs did you use on the rear?