The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cryptkepper, Apr 3, 2013.
Hey guy's had a little time after work to finish the windshield frame, here are some pic's.
well I think that work is great and im a very hard person to please!!so when do you want to build this body I got floatin around in my head!!!!
whatcha got floatin in that head!!! I love a challenge!!! I'm very hard to please but I'm hardest on myself. I tend to build everything with templets first as not to waste steel and my spare time, which I have little of.
Well I cheated a little, I got my Model A grille shell today from Speedway motors. I guess I could have built it myself from raw stock but figure the steel and time it would have taken and at $84.00s it seem a good idea to just buy it instead. I was surprised it is built well for being built over seas! I will have to modify it to fit my radiator. I am using a three core 65 mustang radiator.
so is the grille shell already sectioned cos it's gunna have to be low
to go with that profile
This will be a fun hot rod. Nice work.
To answer your question no, Last night in the living room while spending quality time with the wife and a silver sharpie I marked the grille up to section it. It will be lowered and narrowed to fit the profile of the vehicle. As I stated earlier I am using a new 65 mustang 3 core radiator which is 16 7/8 wide and tall so I should be able to get the proportions I need to make it look right.
Coming along nicely there cryptkepper - keep up the good work.
Hey guys, I had a little time to chop and section the grille shell this evening and I also trimmed the bottom side tabs on the radiator to keep the curve in the grille shell sides. Here are some pic's.
Okay guys, Had a little time to finish up the grille shell to a point where I could trial fit it to the frame. It is not nailed in place yet, I thought I would get opinions from you guys as to profile. Let me know what you guys think? Here's some pic's. P.S. keep in mind the body and grille are not bolted down, each could move and be adjusted slightly.
Clearance looks like it may be an issue? Oil pan looks real low. Nice work though.
Yeah, I know it's only 2.5 inches from the roadway. So I did some research and have come to the conclusion I'll have to modify the pan. Made some measurements and I can shorten the pickup tube by 1 7/8's so I can make the pan 2'' shallower, which will give at a minimum 4" of ground clearance. I also considered raising the engine by 1" which would give me over 5"s of clearance. It's a work in progress that's for sure!
Hey guy's got home today and fabed up the radiator supports and mounted it, and the grille shell for good or until I blow the car apart to do all the body work and paint. Here are a couple of pic's.
Hey guy's, I know it's been a while! I have been working a lot of hours and hadn't had a lot of time to work on the rod lately. with that said I had a chance to finish the dash built some supports behind the dash as well as doubled the thickness where the gauges mount. I intend to weld it in and not bolt it, will try to work on it this evening. Here are some pic's.
Just awesome! If and when you ever go to selling these bodies please contact me!
Well I had some time. and welded the dash in as well as welded the supports behind the dash so it would not vibrate. here are some pic's.
Hey guys, had some time to start fabricating the bed it will be 32 inches wide at the inside and 29 inches long to keep it in proportion with the body It will be 8 inches deep. I have seen many pickups with the fuel tank in the bed and really don't care for it, so I will be building a 32x12x6 inch tank to be mounted under the rear of the bed. I only have the upper sides made and will make the floor and front panel tomorrow after work. Instead of wood panel for a floor I intend to make a steel floor with square beads like a modern truck bed. The tailgate will not function as it will be welded shut to look like a functioning gate. below the bed sides there will be splash pans to make it look more complete. Here are some pic's.
That's going to look awesome. How sharp will the edges be? I'm not a big fan of beds but I think on this body it will look good.
Where you putting the gas tank?
The outer edge of the top rails will have a 3/4 inch box tube along the outside and the fuel tank will be under the bed at the rear it will be a full 12 gallon tank. I will post pic's as I go!
Sounds good man I love this thread. I talk about this thread and how the HAMB has some of the best metal workers.
You going to run a top on it?
Thanks, I have given it thought! Don't know yet if I do it will be a soft top and of coarse removable, thought about useing boat top material instead of convertible top fabric it is more durable.
I'm interested in seeing how you do the top, if you do one. When I get a T Bucket build going I may run a top but not 100% sure yet.
I never thought about boat material I will have to check into that.
Hey guy's had about an hour this evening after work and cut out the floor for the bed. I laid out the the raised areas on the floor panel to look like a modern floor and then used the bead roller to create a raised look. after making the panel I rosette welded the two sides to it. There is a lot more to do such as the front panel and the left and right splash aprons and the rear apron as well, there are four braces two in the rear which wraps under the bed from left to right and two in the front at the cab sides, there will be a rear drop pan of sorts to hide the fuel tank I may make the fuel tank with the drop panel incorporated into it. Here are some pic's.
Hey Tin bender I should have responded to your concern with me not welding the body solid sooner, I understand your concern with the possible flexing of panels as the vehicle is driven, However most modern vehicles are only spot welded ( IE: rosette welds ) during construction today to relive any possible problems with stress. lead and body filler as well as today's paint finishes are designed to flex slightly so I know it will not be a problem in the future. A couple of years ago I was involved in a build where we built a jeep body which is pretty flat and square, my buddy insisted we weld all seams solid. After driving it for the last two years it has many fractures at the seams because it was unable to flex. I didn't want a repeat, so this was the reason I chose not to weld it solid.
Hey guy's worked on the bed today bent the splash for the passenger side of the bed and did the front vertical brace here are the pic's.
awesome job. I love handmade cars...
Dude just subscribed. You are a freak and I'm green with envy. Hats off; lookin good!
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Thanks I think, Never been called a Freak I guess that's a good thing!LOL! And don't worry the green will wash off in time!!!
well yes and no regarding the way manufacturers spot weld. Theres quite a difference between spot welding THROUGH 2 pieces of metal,and tack welding along the edges. When welding on the edge there is much more likelihood of a panel flexing and cracking next to the weld tacks.
Bodyshells are usually spot welded in some areas and fully welded in others. A fully welded bodyshell will eventually crack (as your friends did) given enough useage. Race cars are often (but not always) fully seam welded for two main reasons 1: increased stiffness to get the most out of suspension function and 2: increased driver protection in crashes.
Spot welding allows a certain amount of movement in the panels but its got to be done in the right manner IMO. I really like your design Crypkeeper but along with Tinbender,I also have concerns over the longevity of the body given a good amount of use.
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