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Technical School me on torque tube driveline removal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, Aug 2, 2020.

  1. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,505

    rusty valley
    Member

    leave the speedo drive off, and pump it full, then put the drive "turtle" on, and give it a couple more pumps if you wish, but you're done at that point. if the hole in the inner clam is lined up with the zerk, it will fill the cavity.
     
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  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,838

    alchemy
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    The hole on the inner clamshell might be lined up with the zerk, but there is a torquetube in between.
     
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  3. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,505

    rusty valley
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    i understand that, but if you pump grease in with the turtle off you can watch it fill. really, when you watch, it fills up almost like a liquid. is every square inch full? perhaps not, but i would consider it done, and with routine maintenance its gonna get greased again. while we are on the subject, if your speedo is not accurate, now would be the time to play with that. there is a number on the turtle, and there is a chart that tells what number to use with your tire size and rear end ratio. the chart may be online, vanpelts? or many of us have the "green bible" and could get you in the right direction IF your speedo was wrong. actually, thinking some more, i believe the zerk location is at the edge of the bell on the tube, so the bell is not stopping the flow of grease. the bell is not up against anything, the u joint, speedo drive gear, thrust washer are what controls end play, so there is space for the grease to flow. off memory here, i would have to go look at some junk to be sure, but i believe this is correct
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2020
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  4. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,184

    19Fordy
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    Last edited: Aug 6, 2020
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  5. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,464

    cvstl
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    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    I'm still not filling my clamshell with grease. At least not until I burn up a u-joint...... mine has a 80k plus and has not had grease filled clamshell since at least the mid '50s

    And like Alchemy, I don't see any misinformation
     
  6. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,505

    rusty valley
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    i had to look at some parts to refresh my brain. here's a photo showing that indeed there is a torque tube between the two clams, the bell does not go forward far enough to cover the grease hole, so no interference when greasing. this is also the end play control, not the shaft and related parts i incorrectly stated above. sorry for that. IMG_0718.JPG
     
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  7. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,398

    Roothawg
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    Clay, what are the adverse effects of over-servicing the clam shell?
     
  8. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,398

    Roothawg
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    That's pretty close to what I have .
     
  9. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,398

    Roothawg
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    I wonder if that is why they get packed full? Maybe so people don't have to worry about periodic greasing?

    Sorry for the multiple quotes, I have never gotten the hang of the "multi-quote" function.
     
  10. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,184

    19Fordy
    Member

    rusty valley is correct. Plus, the grease fitting in the lower clam shell is directly opposite the grease hole
    in the piece that the TT bell rides on. This allows grease to fill the U joint cavity. I added another serk fitting on the top of the clam shell to make greasing process easier. Here's some photos showing innards right after disassembly. Read ALL the Fordbarn threads listed here:
    https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/search.php?searchid=16981691
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 6, 2020
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  11. Darin Younce
    Joined: May 8, 2019
    Posts: 576

    Darin Younce

    Was gonna say to check that coupler on drive shaft, could be as alchemy stated . Seems I read somewhere on here or somewhere that someone had some noise back there and the pin was actually broken loose and hitting the pinion nut. If you pull engine anyway, and remove trans as some suggest, you could try turning drive shaft in reverse motion and see it you hear anything before you take torque tube apart.
     
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  12. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,184

    19Fordy
    Member

    If you're going to remove the transmission, it's not that much more work to unbolt the torque
    tube from the rear and remove it so you can check everything. Removing the drive
    train is a lot of work so get it all 'fixed' at one time. Will give you peace of mind.
     
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  13. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,398

    Roothawg
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    Thanks for all the info guys. I am enjoying this thread. I love to learn new stuff. The motor and tranny will be out by Saturday, so expect a lot of questions Saturday night.
     
  14. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,184

    19Fordy
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    It is a misnomer to say:
    " But you could always leave the new-fangled seal out of the back end of the torquetube to make sure plenty of rearend lube reached the U-joint. ;) Five gallons of lube in the rearend and torquetube."

    The U-joint is not lubricated by rear end fluid draining down the TT to the U-Joint.
     
  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,838

    alchemy
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    I haven't experienced it, but I've read here on the HAMB and on Fordbarn of guys having to drain lube out of their transmission and replace it back into the rearend. I'd think the U-joint got lubed somewhere on its way from the rear to the trans.
     
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  16. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,838

    alchemy
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    I must have clocked my inner cap wrong when assembling my car. I don't remember the zerk being in line with the inner hole. Next time it's apart I'll be sure to line them up.
     
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  17. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,505

    rusty valley
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    the inner cap in the photo i took has a grease hole on both sides, so it cant be put on wrong. not sure if thats a later thing, or home made. i should go look at some more in the mess
     
  18. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,398

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    Right, that's because the cars with rake tend to migrate forward. That's why I am looking for one of the seals from Danny. This is all new to me, I have always done open drive stuff.
     
  19. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 2,433

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    This is a good thread. Its kinda fun to nerd out on all the early Ford stuff haha. Ive had this kinda stuff together and apart a bit and im learning some neat stuff here.
     
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  20. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,838

    alchemy
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    My car has a stock 32 rearend. I've got other inner caps on the shelves too, I'll dig some out some time and look.
     
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  21. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,505

    rusty valley
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    i looked thru the mess today, i found 6 caps, all had two holes 180 degrees apart. i could swear i have seen some with only one hole, but perhaps its a fig of my newton
     
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  22. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,464

    cvstl
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    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Probably nothing. I have been impressed with the cornhead grease, if I did it that is definitely what I'd use.

    I will probably do it on my 36, when I put the RTS trans in it, because I'm not sure it will blow enough, oil thru the bearing.....
     
  23. I saw a picture once, I think it was on the Fordbarn, of a U joint packed in a saran wrap "coocoon" of grease a guy had done in prepping the U joint for assembly. My guess is the saran wrap held the grease until he was ready to assemble then he removed it when he put the clam shell on.

    I hope that makes sense, I don't have the pic to post but that's the best way I could figure to explain it.
     
  24. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,184

    19Fordy
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    Nope. There is a chance of transmission fluid leaking out the rear of the transmission into the U-Joint cavity.I noticed that when i took my clam shell apart. U-joint and all components were covered with gear oil.

    The center bearing in the torque tube "blocks" the flow of any rear banjo gear oil. Plus, when rear gear oil comes in contact with the rubber encased torque tube center bearing, it literally dissolves the rubber rendering the bearing useless. That would be a very poor design.

    Plus, the design of the rear banjo allows excess oil to drain back to the banjo, not flow forward unless the car is "raked"..
    It would make absolutely no sense for rear banjo gear oil to have to flow past the center bearing to
    the U-joint. When you take your drive shaft apart you will see a seal on the solid drive shaft that prevents this.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2020
  25. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,505

    rusty valley
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    all good info above ^^^ except that fords did not have a center bearing until 37 ? i think. the early cars had a hollow drive shaft, and no telling whats inside this roadster on topic, but usually a torque tube with a bearing would not be the builders choice in a model a
     
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  26. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,838

    alchemy
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    Even my full fendered, stock wishboned, 32 sedan has enough rake to make the torquetube about level. A lowdown little A roadster is surely gonna have a forward rake on his torquetube. Granted we don't know if Root's torquetube has a center bearing, but even if it was a post-37 rearend, it is probably shortened and the bearing was commonly missing on reassembly.

    B at 2020 Goodguys.jpg
     
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  27. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 5,770

    Marty Strode
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    When greasing the u-joint, I remove one the bolts holding the speedo housing, and pump grease until it squirts out of the bolt hole. That way I know it's full.
     
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  28. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,398

    Roothawg
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    It's a 32 axle. I have no idea what's inside. I am pulling it Sat morning. More to come.....
     
  29. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,184

    19Fordy
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    Last edited: Aug 7, 2020
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  30. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,464

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Drive shafts were not solid with a center bearing until '39, I think. My 37 had a hollow tube driveshaft and enough rake to transfer rear gear oil from the differential to the trans. Pretty sure Roothawgs has no center bearing. I'm running a 40 rear now with a solid shaft and center bearing.... also with a TT seal to keep the rear oil in the rear. So far so good.
     

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