Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical School me on torque tube driveline removal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, Aug 2, 2020.

  1. hotdamn
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,124

    hotdamn
    Member

    a few lessons that I learned the hard way, if you do take your torque tube off dont stand it up, theres A LOT of grease in there that will fall out, I did that and it took literally 2 tubes of grease to quieten that torque tube bearing back down..

    also 19Fordy mentioned through not forgetting the throw out bearing, dont forget the pilot bearing either. I did that once and rebuilt a fresh rebuilt trans a month later...
     
    Nailhead Jason likes this.
  2. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,514

    rusty valley
    Member

    when its going back together, i leave the speedo drive off the tube, then you can see how much grease you are pumping in. when its almost full, put the drive on
     
  3. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    The shifter has been bent. It fits ok, but the tower is buried under the dash.
     
    Pist-n-Broke likes this.
  4. BuckeyeBuicks
    Joined: Jan 4, 2010
    Posts: 2,282

    BuckeyeBuicks
    Member
    from ohio

    Do it like the old time jalopy racers did, weld a hook on the dash to hold it in second gearo_O
     
  5. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,852

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you don't have a removable transmission hump, maybe now's the time to build one. I can't imagine working on a car like these without one. It's bad enough on my sedan, which isn't channelled. I've had the front floor out of it a half dozen times for sure since it's been "finished". Way easier to do the engine and trans install/maintenance, as well as brakes and steering, from up above instead of below.
     
    Hnstray and rusty valley like this.
  6. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    I have the seats out, I'll pull the carpet and have a look.
     
  7. Did you try pulling the shift lever out of the tower yet. There is a stamped steel cup that is threaded (circled in diagram). Remove that cup and lift the shift lever straight up. watch for small roll pin it may or may not try to fall out. Place rag in hole. Try to leave transmission in neutral it can help with rolling the rear axle back.
    upload_2020-8-3_16-39-50.png
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 3, 2020
    Roothawg likes this.
  8. Disconnect speedometer cable from Torque tube. Unbolt rear spring clamp from the frame. Jack car up in air by frame leaving rear axle on ground. Unbolt the 4 bolts on the clam shell on the back of the transmission (see diagram. 2 above and 2 below). roll everything back. Watch for brake lines fluid and mechanical.

    upload_2020-8-3_16-45-10.png
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    Thanks guys, this helps. Luckily, I pulled the carpet and the builders had enough foresight to make the floor/trans hump and driveshaft tunnel are removable! C08C61FE-B3D8-4AE3-A538-F1923D0B2A72.jpeg EA013CCA-0565-4EAB-AB35-9F053EF69CCF.jpeg 8F88BF71-07E0-4F02-869C-FDA00094B2BC.jpeg
     
  10. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 2,436

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Roothawg Im glad you started this thread. I didn't know that solid clamshell gasket that Nailhead Jason posted existed. Im gonna order one too!
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  11. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    I think I may order a torque tube baffle from Danny Burroughs to keep the oil from migrating.
     
    teach'm likes this.
  12. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,464

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    I kinda doubt that the TT points down hill. If it doesn't, you don't need one.
     
  13. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    All it takes is a tire change on the front and it all has to come back out. Hoping to prevent multiple removals. Not even sure if anyone is still making them.
     
  14. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,188

    19Fordy
    Member

    Attached Files:

    Roothawg and Hnstray like this.
  15. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,464

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Danny still makes them. Put one in the 37 last year.
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  16. you can blame that grease on me. I’m pretty sure I put the torque tube straight up after taking it apart when we did the rear in your 38.
     
  17. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    Talking to him now. Hopefully, he can hook me up.

    I checked and the TT is 5* nose down with current tires. If I go with 5.60-15's in the future, That will drop it another 3/4" up front.
     
  18. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,188

    19Fordy
    Member

    When you install it be sure to add a rear axle hosing vent like he suggests. This one is homemade.
    Also, DO NOT chase the threads on the banjo or the bolts. They were made to a special tolerance by Henry Ford.
     

    Attached Files:

    Roothawg likes this.
  19. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    Any idea on the thread pitch?
     
  20. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,188

    19Fordy
    Member

    1/8-27 NPT. Tap drill is .339 in. That's a Letter "R" drill bit. I went one drill size smaller as I was drilling by hand which tends to make a larger hole. Start out with an 1/8 inch drill and work your way up. Practice on a piece of scrap first. Put grease on the tap and tap threads a little at a time, each time checking the fit of your NPT pipe threads and removing greasy chips.. If you tap too deep to the full dia. of the tap you won't get a tight fit and hole will be oversize.
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  21. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,188

    19Fordy
    Member


    I have 5:560x15's on my front and 7:60 x 15 on stock rear.
    Plus, 2 1/2 in. dropped axle and reversed eye spring. Very low.
     

    Attached Files:

    Nailhead Jason and Roothawg like this.
  22. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    Mine sits ok, but they are a big tire to handle on stock 32 steering box. 8.20-15's on the rear.
     
  23. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,038

    fortynut
    Member

    I had a Forty Coupe in High School with an Olds engine bolted to the Ford drive train using an Honest Charlie adapter. It had a '39 transmission set-up. Reading through the comments caused me to have flashbacks, including the smells, and the procedure of jacking it up and unbolting the rear spring hangers, the clam shell, and also having to hunt down a replacement transmission. When the gears let loose repair was not possible. I went through my fair share of them. So many I lost count. Same deal with the Woodruff key in the axle. Of course, later on, when I built my '37 Coupe I wised up. But that's a different story for another day. Keep at it. It's part of the fun and misery of the engineering and metallurgy of a period when making horsepower was limited by a variety of factors that changed after WWII.
     
    warbird1 and Roothawg like this.
  24. I did everything I could to replace seals, gaskets, and used a torque tube seal made by Danny "Hot Rod Pro". It still leaked a the clam shell. But then again I'm a hack.

    My theory was that the transmission was leaking because I didn't do anything to it but install. if there is a seal from the trans at the back, replace that.
     
    adam401 and Roothawg like this.
  25. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,852

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There isn't a seal in the transmission's rear bearing, but you can change it to one that does have a seal on the backside. Maybe the VanPelt book talks about that? I've seen it somewhere. You would have to make sure you lubed your U-joint up fully before assembly with plenty of cornhead grease, cause no trans lube would find it's way through the seal. But you could always leave the new-fangled seal out of the back end of the torquetube to make sure plenty of rearend lube reached the U-joint. ;) Five gallons of lube in the rearend and torquetube.
     
    Dan Hay likes this.
  26. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    So how much grease are we talking? I have heard a couple of squirts to pack it full.
    I found this on the Ford barn.

    From page 25 of the 1932-37 Service Bulletins. "The universal joint housing
    should be FILLED with a universal joint lubricant composed of cylinder oil, thickened
    with sodium tallow soap."

    The service bulletin for December 1934 Ford V8 1935 Specifications states, Universal Joints Lubricated with 4oz. of cyl. oil soda soap grease. p248
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2020
  27. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    I like your creativity with the Canadian penny in the home-made vent; that's cool. Being so close to the USA/Canadian border, we get Canadian coins all the time. The stores won't TAKE them from you, but they sure do GIVE them to you to get rid of them. I have a few OLD Canadian pennies I've saved over the years; probably not worth anything more than a penny, but I think they're kinda neat. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  28. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,188

    19Fordy
    Member


    Wow! Lots of unintentional misinformation posted above.
    Zip over to Fordbarn and do a search for some good. info.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2020
  29. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,403

    Roothawg
    Member

    I am searching that forum as well.
     
  30. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,852

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What of my info was misinfo?

    I was joking about filling the downward sloped torquetube with 140wt. That would be silly.

    As for keeping the U-joint greased after assembly, doing a little study of the parts will show you the zerk on the outside of the clamshell is a long and convoluted route from the joint. Don't count on that lube making it to the joint.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.