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Technical School me on torque tube driveline removal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, Aug 2, 2020.

  1. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,408

    Roothawg
    Member

    So, the little roadster I bought a year ago has needed second gear for a while. I plan on doing this project in the near future, but honestly I don't know the first thing about pulling it.

    The details:
    • 265 Chevy with adapter
    • 1939 Ford 3 speed tranny
    • 1932 Ford banjo rear
    On a typical hot rod motor removal, I can run through the check list on the order I need to do things. With this, I got nothing. I don't know if I need to split everything a piece at a time, or pull it as an assembly? Should I split the torque tubes on both ends to inspect the shaft and u joints?

    What extra pieces should I invest in while I have it apart? Bushings, bearings, seals, gaskets... etc. I want to collect my parts, so that the car is only down for a minimal amount of time.

    Thanks,

    Root
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
  2. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,516

    rusty valley
    Member

    the rear end only needs to go back a few inches to get the tranny out. if there's enough slack in the rubber brake line, maybe not even have to mess with the brakes. you may not even have to remove the tires, just roll the whole thing back after you remove the spring u bolts and raise the frame to get clearance. piece o cake
     
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  3. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,408

    Roothawg
    Member

    The motor is coming out anyway to get a new rear main seal. I just want to fix all the leaks while it is down. At least try...

    It has a clicking when I back up, sounds like it is in the driveshaft towards the back.
     
  4. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,524

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    If you mean to take the transmission out of a torque tube car you start by removing the rear axle assembly, detaching it from the spring, or the spring from the frame whichever is easier. Disconnect the torque tube at the transmission end and pull it back to detach from the transmission. Then you can unbolt the transmission from the bellhousing and drop it out.
     
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  5. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 5,402

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    If you want to spend some dinero, but or build a nice quick change rear. Then you can play with gear ratios .
     
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  6. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,791

    flatford39
    Member

    If you are pulling the engine first than you can do it a component at a time. If you were just pulling the trans then the rear end has to come out so you can drop it down. You will need to support the engine if you are just removing the trans.
     
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  7. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,408

    Roothawg
    Member

    The main goal is to freshen everything up, fix the leaks, install a torque tube baffle for the oil migration issue, fix second gear and fix that pesky rear main leak.
     
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  8. My arm gets tired holding mine in 2nd gear...
     
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  9. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,408

    Roothawg
    Member

    Mine just grinds, so I go from 1st to 3rd. Second gear would make this a whole lot more driveable in town.
     
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  10. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,516

    rusty valley
    Member

    if pulling the motor, i would do that first. be ready for a greasy mess at the u joint area, steal the frizbe from the neighbors dog or have similar ready to set the front of the tube into. hopefully some one used the correct 5/8 wrench size nuts at the clam, as 11/16 nuts are so close to the clam you can hardly get a wrench on it.if you are gonna go thru the whole drive train, thats good plan to freshen it all up. the diff has to come apart completely as the axle seals are inside the bells. happy with your gear ratio? good time for a change if not. tranny's are pretty simple, buy mac vanpelts book, you will be glad you did
     
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  11. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 977

    Aaron D.
    Member

    If you’re removing the engine anyway, you can take the transmission out from the front.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  12. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,408

    Roothawg
    Member

    I have it.
     
  13. I would think the sound you have in Reverse is gear box related not rear axle. There is only One U-Joint in that unit, just up front. Myself if unsure of the sound and the Roadster has a lift off floor trans cover I'd lift the top off the gear box and visually inspect the cluster and slider for damage that would cause the sound. No point in shelling out the Diff if there's nothing wrong. On the other hand you don't want to hang everything back together and still need to get into the Diff. I would suspect a chipped or missing tooth on the cluster reverse gear.
     
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  14. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 12,476

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    put a hook on the dash, it’s traditional lol
     
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  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,857

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Unhook the engine paraphernalia, remove the shifter tower and clutch link, undo the clamshell cover, remove bolts on the trans mount biscuits, and pull the whole engine/trans forward and out. Then replace all the leaky gaskets and seals. Install the same way in reverse.

    Might have a little difficulty lining the splines up on the driveshaft when reassembling. Could take a bit of rocking the engine to line them up.

    The ticking might be a pin coming out of the coupler from pinion to driveshaft. Since you are going to add a seal there, you will have it apart to check.
     
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  16. I’ve thought about it but it would probably pull the dash off! :D
     
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  17. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 2,436

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Is it the roadster you posted a pic of with your Aunt in another thread?f I had a rear main leak id pull the engine and trans together, split them while theyre out and deal with that rear main seal. The trans will then come apart on the bench to deal with the 2nd gear which seems to always be the problem.
    I wouldnt seperate the torque tube because ive never had a problem on the coupler end but I'm no expert either.
    I'm pretty quick at pulling the engine/ trans outta my car. I break shit. I always pull the engine trans combo. I used to always unbolt the rear spring and slide the banjo rear back on my other cars and this one too for a while but I dunno... I feel like engine and tranny out is faster now.
     
  18. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,999

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just follow the book, I did my '47 recently (last 1-2 yrs). Pulled the engine, took out the trans, rebuilt it, new trans mount and shoved it back in. Left the rear/tube/driveshaft in it's place.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2020
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  19. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,408

    Roothawg
    Member

    One of my major leaks is right at the differential to torque tube gasket. This car is heavily channeled. It will be interesting getting everything out. The shifter in up under the dash.
     
  20. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,857

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Maybe just pull the shifter out of the tower? Would that be easier? Unscrew the hemisphere cap and the shifter lifts straight up.

    Then the tower can remain on the trans as you remove it with the engine.
     
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  21. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 2,374

    gene-koning
    Member

    I take it that firing up the torch to cut it out isn't the direction you want to go?:rolleyes::D Gene
     
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  22. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,516

    rusty valley
    Member

    if you pull out the shift lever, be careful not to drop the little 1/4" pin on the right side threads under the cap into the tranny. sometimes they are loose
     
  23. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 2,436

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One thing I forgot to mention earlier regarding the clamshell that holds the torque tube to the tranny are the cork seals that pressed into grooves in the clamshell themselves. I used to just put them together with whatever condition seal was in there. I never cared that my cars leaked. As I get older I guess I take a little more pride in less leaks and squeaks haha. Replacing those seals makes a huge difference.
    Also id never pull a Ford 3 speed and put it back in without replacing the throwout bearing. Ive had bad luck with them and they're cheap.
    When you bolt the torque tube back to the diff make sure the oiling holes in the diff, tube and seal are lined up.
     
  24. As others have said, un bolt the torque tube from the trans and pull the trans and motor as a unit. when going back together on my 39 I put the trans in first because it was just easier to get the splines in the ujoint lined up. plus I was using a oring type seal instead of the cork gaskets. I highly recommend this, it works great. I have around 3000 miles on my 39 since I put it back together and the torque tube is bone dry. really works good. I got it off E-bay. for 17 bucks it was well worth it.
    s-l400.jpg


    https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url...ved=0CA0QjhxqFwoTCMDrz_Sw_-oCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAF
     
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  25. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 21,408

    Roothawg
    Member

    Thanks. On order. That's the stuff I am talking about, right there....
     
  26. when using that o ring kit, just put a little grease on the ring to lube it as moves on the torque tube, inside the clam shell. Also when going back together, Im sure you will have cleaned all the old grease out of the U Joint, Don't put regualar wheel bearing grease in the u joint. It will sling out and not properly lube the joint. head to your local John Deere dealer and pick up a tube of Cornhead grease. it will flow into the ujoint as Ford intended, instead of just being flung out like regular grease does.
     
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  27. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,464

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Yours is not typical...... if the trans tunnel has a removable section, you should be able to take the clamshell loose and pull the motor and trans all out thru the front..... but I didn't look very closely at the trans tunnel. If it's not got a removable section I'm thinking you will have to separate the motor and then drop the trans to get the shift tower to clear the tunnel, still coming out the front.

    You can also use a piece of 3/8 fuel line instead of the cork. Seals mucho betta
     
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  28. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,464

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Also, this one will probably set off a debate. But everybody says you need to fill the clamshell with grease..... what a mess!!! I only squirt enough grease in the clamshell fitting to grease the joint, because I have never found anything official from Ford that says fill it with grease. I think enough oil blows thru the bearing to lube the u-joint. I have been running mine for 10 yrs (and dad ran it a lot of years before that) like that with alot of highway miles and when I pulled it apart a year ago, the u-joint was oily, in perfect condition, with no visible wear or slop.
     
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  29. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,191

    19Fordy
    Member

    You might want to consider making a homemade grease fitting to fit the top of the clam shell so you don't have to crawl under the car and use the OEM grease fitting.

    You really don't need to grease the U-Joint very often, so it's just a matter of convenience. Here's a few photos plus JD cornhead grease. DON'T FORGET TO INSTALL THE THROW OUT BEARING! (I did that one time only.)
    Be sure to put all the clam shell paper seals in place BEFORE you assemble it as a unit with the U-Joint. Easy to forget.

    Also, the bottom two clam shell bolts and nuts are a pain to install. You might have to grind your wrenches thinner for easier install.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 3, 2020
    Nailhead Jason likes this.
  30. I learned a good trick many years back when you want to bend round rod without making a kink. Find a V-Belt pully the dia. you want in the curve. Clamp things on a steel plate and bend the rod in the V or the pulley and you end up with a Swan neck, no kinks. Thought I had a better photo of this but must be in the Shop computer. This is in second gear on my Roadster and it's Channeled 6".
    P1010248.JPG
     

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