SBC water pump

does anyone know how many gallons per min. a stock sbc chevy water pump pumps? i was told by Dedenbear pumps, that it doesn't even pump 26 gallons a min. that doesn't sound right. what do you think?

 

it would vary by rpm

 

Dedenbear, says i would be ok with thier 26 gal. per min. pump on my 350 hp. 350 new alum. rad. electric fan

 

anybody else?

 

I have a 750 hp 351 windsor in an off topic Mustang. I have a stock water pump and the moroso electric motor and belt set up, and it never over heats at the track.... Dedenbear is good stuff, do what you want, either way your fine.

 

26 gpm would handle a lot of water and would be much larger than the sbc water pump. In the apple, peach, pecan orchard business, the sprayers we use to put chemicals into the trees send back more gpm to agitate/mix the chemicals and control gun or jet pressure than what can cool an engine as is flows through.
Too much flow will cause the lack of cooling capability because the coolant moves too fast to absorb and carry away heat.

 

You got to factor in the thermostat also, it will slow or stop the water flow so it can cool in the radiator

 

Try filling 26 1 gallon jugs with a water hose on full blast 1 one minute. I've got an engine run in stand that uses fresh water from an outside shop faucet (no radiator) so there is always ample cold water to avoid any overheating during the critical 1st 20-30 minutes of running. There is a temperatue probe on the outlet side with a faucet to regulate flow. I start with the faucet shut and as temperature builds I regulate temperature by opening the outlet a little at a time until the temp stabilizes at 180-200 for the duration of the break-in. The faucet is NEVER anywhere near full open even on a rather tight stock spec assembly.

Frank

 

26 gpm is alot considering that it's just a crude impeller with alot of slippage available. The slippage around the impeller fins begins to really matter when you consider all the restrictions that it must pass through (i.e. block to head passages and the very un-aerodynamic thermostat itself.)
I had a 425rocket (olds) that lost its water pump. the right one was substantially larger than the usual small block chev water pump, but the bolt holes and passages were the same.
Long story short, I went with s.b.chev pump for $28 instead of $80 for the biggun. Had to search bone yards for a different pulley ($5 more) had no probs.

 

I'm skeptical of advise from the guy trying to sell me an electric water pump.

 

Sure they're going to tell you that! They're the ones trying to sell you a freakin' $300.00+ water pump.

Think with your dipstick Bogie!

I'm running 5??+ horse in a SBC with a "stock" GM part numbered - cast iron water pump, a GM/Harrison radiator and a mechanical Flex-a-lite flex fan and never get above 195 degrees stuck in traffic or the staging lanes.

Remember what they always say... K.I.S.S.!

 

First of all, this is a centrifugal pump, not a positive displacement pump. A positive displacement pump will pump a certain amount per revolution of the shaft regardless of pressure within its efficiency rating and design limits. A centrifugal pumps output will vary depending on inlet condition, rpm and resistance to flow (which creates pressure).

You would need to know the rated conditions under which that pump can pump 26 Gpm. It is just like your garden hose. You can shut the flow completely off, which is what the thermostat does or you can choke it down and modulate the flow, which is what the thermostat does.

You need more information.

 

I would try a new (not rebuilt) OEM water pump first, for cheap. If the rest of your cooling system is up to snuff I'll bet it's all you'll need.