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sbc question help me!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 56boracho, Dec 25, 2010.

  1. 56boracho
    Joined: Mar 11, 2010
    Posts: 91

    56boracho
    Member
    from lot

    i have chevy 350 in my 51 ford f1 truck i changed carbs on truck and it was running fine before i put in the 51 ford, but now the engine stalls when i put it in drive or reverse it had a qjet carb in it before but ever since i put the holley carb in it it wont drive anymore. i dont have the carb qjet. anymore is it the carb thats causing it to shut off. and the engibe idles fine when its in park and i can rev it up and wont turn off either. any help would be great please
     
  2. BettyRumble
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 64

    BettyRumble
    Member
    from Tennessee

    Torque converter may be in full lock up
     
  3. 26 roadster
    Joined: Apr 21, 2008
    Posts: 2,015

    26 roadster
    Member

    check for vacuum leak
     
  4. 56boracho
    Joined: Mar 11, 2010
    Posts: 91

    56boracho
    Member
    from lot

    i have checked for vacuum leaks already and im sure i have them hooked up right.

    what does that mean when its full lock up??
     

  5. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,267

    rodknocker

    Is the holley the correct cfm for the engine? x2 on the vacuum leak, can you feather it to get it driving or does it stall immediatly when put into gear? if it stalls immediatly x2 on the torque converter.
     
  6. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,267

    rodknocker

    it means there basically is no stall out rpm, it would be like having the engine hooked right up to the rear axle so it wouldn't be able to idle in gear.
     
  7. BettyRumble
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 64

    BettyRumble
    Member
    from Tennessee

    A torque converter acts as a clutch on an auto trans. It slips when at idle and under light accelerations. it will go into full lock at cruising speeds. If your converter is bad it may be in full lock at idle and stalling your engine
     
  8. Normal Norman
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 510

    Normal Norman
    Member
    from Goshen IN.

    Woody, Did you put a square flange holley on a q-jet manifold? If you did without an adapter you will have a leak around the carb base. Unless the holley was a q-jet style flange. Normal Norman
     
  9. 56boracho
    Joined: Mar 11, 2010
    Posts: 91

    56boracho
    Member
    from lot

    size of carb is a 600 cfm and yes i did put a adapter plate on it also, it stalls when i put it in drive and im able to move it about 20 ft before it stalls and it starts up fine after it shuts itself out.
    so my torque converter could be bad then? i asked around and no ones mentioned that to me before.
     
  10. start engine, spray wd40 around base area of carb and listen for change in idle - if you get an idle jump you have found the air leak - if that is the problem. good luck note; wd40 wont flash on you like carb spray on a hot engine
     
  11. 56boracho
    Joined: Mar 11, 2010
    Posts: 91

    56boracho
    Member
    from lot

    if i spray the wd40 and that happens to be the air leak do i just fix it by changing the gasket or??
     
  12. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,844

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    check plugs ,,,,,,,,,,,I think you might be flooding out ....Also is it Hei
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2010
  13. 56boracho
    Joined: Mar 11, 2010
    Posts: 91

    56boracho
    Member
    from lot

    yes it is hei
    i checked the plugs several times already and is not flooding out spark plugs are dry.
     
  14. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,818

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    put the q-jet back on. 4 bolts and you'll be running again.
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2010
  15. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,272

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    What happens if you disconnect & plug the vacuum advance line going to the distributor, will it idle?
     

  16. x2...
     
  17. jamesgr81
    Joined: Feb 3, 2008
    Posts: 265

    jamesgr81
    Member

    Nothing wrong with converter. If you had a lock up electronically controlled converter then I would say yes.

    If it ran good with Q-jet and won't run with Holley - then the problem is the Holley. Is float level OK, accelerator pump good, gaskets not dried out? Are the mixture screws adjusted? Turn them in until they stop and back them out 1 1/2 to 2 turns to start with. Idle speed OK? Carb not flooding? Fuel pressure OK? Did carb sit around awhile or is there white death inside it? Carb size is unimportant at this point. Holley rebuild may be in order.
     
  18. Rebel 1
    Joined: Oct 25, 2010
    Posts: 568

    Rebel 1
    Member


    I agree. Check all this plus for vac leak.
     
  19. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 6,550

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Do you know the condition of the Holley? New? Used? Rebuilt recently? Sounds like it's an old one with a bad accelerator pump. Leave the engine off and look inside while you work the throttle. You should see gas squirt into the carb venturis if it's good.
     
  20. thegrappler
    Joined: Oct 9, 2008
    Posts: 220

    thegrappler
    Member

    If you dont have a lockup converter (elec wire connector on trans) then theres no reason to suspect the converter by just changing the carb, sounds to me like others have posted the carb itself is ether old and needs a rebuild (dried out gaskets, bad accerator pump, internal leak) or needs adjustment, also check the fuel filter thats on the carb, may be partially plugged, itll run sittin still and even throttle up but once you put a load on it the fuel demand is more than the filter will allow.
     
  21. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,108

    trad27
    Member

    Like others have said it sounds like a vacume leak to me. Is the adapter one of those cheap aluminum ones with the interchangable plastic insert type deal in the center? If so throw it away... I had on of those on my old T bucket before and ran like crap, ended up it was warped and cracked the base on the holley ,long story short I cracked two bases before figuring it out. I would either get the right manifold for a square port or get a spread port holley, I have one in my classified add check my threads started. I try not to run adapters if at all possable, just anouther gasket to leak and something to go wrong.
     
  22. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,108

    trad27
    Member

    Good point, I have expereinced that before also. could be filter, line got kinked, or passage inside the carb.
     
  23. ckunsman89
    Joined: Feb 9, 2010
    Posts: 96

    ckunsman89
    Member
    from cocoa, FL.

    check all of your fuel lines to make sure they are not blocked. If the chassis sat around for a while with the furl lines exposed to the elements, mud dobbersmay have made a nest in the line, this has happened to me before. also, did you do anything with the distributer or anything to affect ignition timing? If your timing is incorrect, the engine will rev in neutral, but fall flat on its face and stall when under a load. just my .02
     
  24. Make sure that you have the right gaskets on the adaptor plate.. Spread bore on the manifold side, Square on the carb side. If the only change that took place is a carb change.. That is where your problem is. It sounds like a vacume leak to me.
     
  25. Diesel627
    Joined: Apr 19, 2008
    Posts: 319

    Diesel627
    Member

    There are ALOT of veriables involved here hat haven't been coverd, timing, air idle mixture, idle speed, where the vacume advance is hooked up to (full manifold pressure, or ported) points gap (if the it has a loins distributer) ect ect. If you swap cabies on an engine, you will allways have to tune the carb to the engine, as I said all those variables need to be adressed. Especially with a auto trans! I have found that air idle mixture setting is the easyest to over look, and almost allways the culprit for the engine stalling under load (when you put it in gear with the brake applyed, or sitting at idle ag a stop light) your best bet, if you don't know how, is to find a friend or old timer who can help you dial in every thing. Because more than likely a couple turns and adjustments here an there will take care of you problem.
     
  26. d.reese
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 228

    d.reese
    BANNED

    Check to make sure the vacuum line to the distributor advance is coming off the correct port on the carb. If the vacuum line is at a location on the carb that is incorrect, then find the one thats correct for the amount needed to work the vacum advance on the distributor! Google the carb and look into the infromation on vacuum line hook ups!

    If thats correct, then look into the fule llines and make sure all connections are tight!

    Last, if all above is correct, then crank engine and get up to operating temp. Then check timing and idle settings! It could be the carb idle is set to high and the butterflies are up out of the idle circuits? Last it couls be checking the float level?
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2010
  27. porkchop4464
    Joined: Jan 20, 2009
    Posts: 879

    porkchop4464
    Member

    Which trans are you using? I ask because if you are stating that you can run it, rev it, and it idles when in neutral without hearing any major hissing (unless you have straight pipes and you can't hear it), then I would crawl under and check your trans. If it's a 350 or a 400 Turbo, check the 2 inch rubber junctures that run in two spots off the factory steel lines; if it is a 700R4, there is the TV cable, or maybe someone else put an electonic conversion kit on the trans (if you bought the vehicle and don't know) and when you removed the carb, either the throw of the linkage radius (which must be adjusted dead on) or a ground wire is off which, on the electronic conversion, can actually trip the internals into thinking they should lock the converter - as suggested by another rodder.
    I think if you had a leak bad enough that you couldn't rev through it and get her at least rolling with a few pops through the carb, you would be able hear that leak. Also, check gounds around the area where the old Quadro-slob was pulled, maybe you somehow pulled a Park safe hot or ground and its killing the engine when the shifter is moved. Don't know model, year, trans, truck?
    Pork
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2010
  28. studebaker46
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 675

    studebaker46
    Member

    i think were all missing the fact that engine was installed and carb changed at the same time so all the info is good. take your time and go through all the steps and check each one \. all the guys are giving excellent info without looking at the car in person really hard to troubleshoot, tom
     
  29. sounds to me like an out of adjustment cranky ass Holley.... try swapping to an edlebrock... holly's are nice when their dialed in right.. but I think they have 7 adjustments on them and if any one is off your going to have a driveability problem...
     
  30. lowmater_tn
    Joined: Sep 20, 2009
    Posts: 83

    lowmater_tn
    Member

    drop that Holley i have had nothing but problems out of them edlebrock or go back to the one u had on it before and see how ir runs
     

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