My take on Chassis Engineering is they're kinda big. I have a pair hanging in my shop taken from a '37 Coupe I built and re-built. Second time I used bolt in Pete and Jake's motor mounts. The first build I used Saginaw power steering, spent time looking around (everywhere) and found a ram's horn made to go on the right side that had the outlet tilted back. Putting this on the left (driver) side make it dump forward, past the Ford location for the steering box, clearing even the power box, and using 'u's & j's I created a pipe similar to the chrome one pictured in an earlier post. Mine arched forward, around and under. And there is plenty of room up there, so it won't hang down and drag. I have a love/hate relationship with electric fuel pumps, so I always notch the cross member and use a mechanical pump. I like a Carter pump and can't remember if I used one on that build, or not. But, they are clockable. Until I read through this thread, I didn't know Hurst style mounts wouldn't let you use a mechanical pump without spacing it forward. I have a pattern to fab one up, and was going use one in the future as they are also bolt-on and use stock biscuit mounting like the Chassis Engineering units. Good Luck. Nothing like a Forty. Carl
I'm getting ready to put a 327 300 HP in my '39 Deluxe coupe with a 200R4 TH auto. I love the bent ram'a horn exhaust on the Left side from a 67-72 PU. I will convert the torque tube to an open drive shaft with the Speedway kit and retain the stock 3.78-1 rear end ratio because of the 4th gear overdrive in the transmission. Last year I completed a SBC ('56 265 powerpack) into my '35 Phaeton using the stock transmission and rear end. It made a great cruiser and handles highway speeds beautifully. I am using a Hurt mount with a frame mounted gear fuel pump from Fifth Ave. Antique auto parts in Kansas. http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/ A couple of miles on a freeway with a flathead will change even a purist's mind. Flatheads are great water heaters. Just keep adding fluid.
I did not notch the firewall.The right head just barely cleared the firewall .I used a Mallory Unilite ign.I used a short Chevy waterpump and a SS flex fan.It all cleared the rad fine.
Firewall stayed uncut in mine. Dizzy and right head were close, but far enough to work with. I spaced up the hurst mount with about 1/2" worth of large washers, to give me a finger clearance between the oil pan and the spring u bolts. Plenty of room in the front, I used a short water pump and a 1" fan spacer. I also spaced the radiator up about 2" to be able to run a bigger fan and center it more in the core.
To run a hurst mount ( original at least) and mechanical fuel pump you notch the mount. Easy as pie. Can't answer your aftermarket motor mount questions I am afraid.
I have a hole in my crossmember from a mech pump with hurst mount I have an electric pump now with Chassis Eng. mounts and the mech pump would not fit unless it was notched.
That pattern you have for a front mount hurst style could I take a look at it see if what I’m making is similar to the pattern you may have for my engine to be mounted in my 40’ pickup thanks.. Just saw this and wanted to ask really quick..
His post was done March 27. 2014 and he hasn't been on here for quite a while. In fact his profile page is closed out.
I liked this swap, SBC in a '40. It was straight forward, and the first one I saw was in Hot Rod Magazine, Chev into Bob D'Olivio's '41 pickup. (1958?) Remember it was a HRM cover car: White '41 pickup had a placard in the pass. windshield: "OUT OF SERVICE". Engine swap went smoothly, Bob mentioned "The Chevy went in easier than the flathead came out!" I did one (many, but this one Had interference between the steering box and the exhaust manifold... I moved the steering box bracket 1.25" ahead on the frame rail. Easy... Ram horn exhaust manifolds with swept back dumps are still in some wrecking yards, on trucks... Clocking the manual fuel pump to clear the 'member is smart, but sometimes I still had to notch the 'member...easy, though. If I had the choice of powerplants, give me the SBC!
I finished the 40 standard Tudor that this question was pertaining too, and now have a 39 deluxe with the same setup, SBC, hurst mount mated to the 39 box and banjo. Tried and true swap ever since 55 when the first 265 hit the salvage yard. Good reference info here.
Great post. We have done maybe 7-8 in the last few years. I use the same stuff over and over. 327, turbo 350 CE motor mounts, CE or TCI center member, CE or weedetr rear spring kit, 8" 3.00 rear Sanderson or manifold that turns forward on drivers side, 525 box, split bones etc. Cut the crossmember and weld in plate so stock style clockable fuel pump can be used. There can be slight differences from one car to the other. I put trans and engine together and bolt to center member then sit in with dist and move so cap is about 1/4" from firewall (small early style) then locate motor mounts. The CE measurements can cause issues. Have done many and they are still on the road. Getting ready to do another one I hope This one is a 47K mile stocker with a Columbia--may just do the hurst mount and a fresh 265 to the stock drivetrain my friend has lying around.
The Jalopy Journal
