a friend is installing a sbc in a 53 ford wagon . the center link is causing interference . he was going to notch the oil pan ,but the oil pump is right there . anyone done this swap or have any ideas .
You might try the guys in the 52-59 social group,,I know the 52/53 Fords didn't have the new suspension that was introduced in '54. HRP
years ago Hurst offered a dropped drag link to cure the problem. All the did was cut the stock drag link near where the tie rods attached and the added a bar about 3" lower attached by 2 plates welded on each side and to the original drag link stubs that were left. I often looked at those and thought that a simple jig to hols the drag link in position while cutting and welding could be fabricated and do one at home. But I haven't had a '49-'53 Ford or Merc that needed an engine change since then so I forgot about it until this post. You might try an ad to see if anyone has one of those old Hurst drag links, There is nothing to wear out since the pittman arm and idler arm had the bushing in them instead.
Hurst,Herbert and Trans-Dapt last produced them in the early 70's here is a picture from the Almquist catalog from around 1959:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=6403 The third page in this article(click on it to enlarge) http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177373&page=2 shows the dropped drag link install. Too bad he didn't use a 5.0 Ford from 1979 up with a Fox body dual sump pan we would not even be having this discussion also the Fords front mounted oil filter eliminates the oil filter clearance at the steering box,Old Henry was looking ahead I guess
Its been close to 45 years since the last one but I have fab up several 49 thru 53 fords with different G M engines. 3 with chevy..The drop drag link is the simplest way to go. I never bought one as it is to easy to fab up. Be sure to remove enough of the original not to have the drag link hit the side of oil pan. My first one { CAD engine} I left to much of it and it limited the turn radius quite a bit.All you need is 2 peices of scrap steel a way to cut the drag ling and a welder. . You might have to go to a electric fuel pump or notch the frame. This is according to what engine mount or adapter you use. I hope this helps. Good luck.... Bobby
thanks for all the help . some one mentioned the hurst mount today . seems everyone agrees that there no longer made . and thanks for the tech .
Tell him to order this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/62-67-NOVA-...vrolet|Model:Nova&hash=item3a87964835&vxp=mtr And request the matching oil pump and pickup to work with this pan.Now he won't have to mess with the drag link.
I've used a lot of sbc engines in early Fords but the 52-54 Fords have plenty of room for a Ford engine,the 302's fit like they were designed for these cars. HRP
I found a new Hurst dropped drag on ebay two months ago and bought it. It is now installed in my 53 making room for an Ardun with a Merc rear sump pan. I used a Hurst draglink when I put a Chev in my old 53, years ago. They work great. No need to make a jig when making your own dropped drag link. Just don't cut off original center piece until the new dropped section is welded into place. Also, you will have to leave th right idler arm in place while installing the dropped section because you cannot put it in afterwards because the dropped section interferes.
I put a 327 in a 53 Ford about 35 years ago,dropped the drag link as several others have said.Didn't have to buy anything,and didn't have to mess with the pan or oil pump pickup. Anyone with basic skills can do this with no problems.
I have also done the dropped center link deal, but rather than fab one up I formed it. Bought tie rod kit from Speedway. If you pack it full of sand (make sure it is DRY sand), screw the tie rod ends in to pack sand and heat/bend. No kinking. I have done a couple and they work out great.
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