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Save That Sweet Horn

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by the-rodster, Mar 14, 2012.

  1. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    This is great tech for anybody who keeps their stock steering wheel, uses anything but the stock steering box, and still wants to use the horn button/ring on their stock wheel.

    OK, say your steering wheel/column is integrated with the steering box. (Like most pre 60's vehicles)

    Now say that you want to keep your way cool stock wheel and column, BUT, you plan on using something other than the the stock steering box, i.e. using a u-joint to connect to a vega box, rack and pinion, new front clip, etc...

    This creates a dilema.

    The stock horn made use of a ground wire that went down the middle of the steering shaft, and right through the stock steering box.

    What to do???

    Well, turns out Willys had it figured out for the 1941-1949 Jeeps.

    They used a brass bushing that mounted to the steering shaft, and a wiring contact that rides on the bushing and mounts to the column.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2012
  2. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    The Jeep part numbers are A302, and A302B.

    A google search on "willys horn A302" provides numerous sources for the parts...

    www.willysjeepparts.com
    www.kaiserwillys.com
    www.walcks4wd.com

    The brush is about 15 bucks and the bushing is another 5.

    Here's my situation..

    I want to use my stock 49 Ford Sedan wheel and column, but I clipped the car with a GM subframe.

    So, here goes...

    First, drill the column where you want to install the horn contact.

    I chose just behind on the column support, on the passenger side.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    Next, install the shaft, and mark it, in correlation with the hole.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    I positioned the bushing toward one side of where the contact would run, allowing room for soldering the contact wire to the bushing.

    [​IMG]
     

  5. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    Then, I epoxied the bushing to the shaft.


    [​IMG]
     
  6. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    Then I drilled a hole in the steering shaft just forward of the bushing, and routed the horn wire thru the shaft and new hole.


    [​IMG]
     
  7. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    This step is critical.

    The wire must be soldered to the bushing with a STRONG connection.

    This means the brass must be VERY hot to make the correct bond.
    NOTE: It may be easier to solder the wire to the bushing BEFORE it is epoxied to the shaft.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    Now you can install the contact.

    [​IMG]


    And, just to make sure, check the continuity.

    [​IMG]
     
    Cosmo50 likes this.
  9. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    HAPPY HONKING!

    Rich
     
  10. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 27,464

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

  11. Great tech!

    I am going to use this on my Model A.

    I was afraid I was going to have to use a push button...

    No more.

    Thanks!

    Sam
     
  12. I like this idea!!!
     
  13. damagedduck
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 2,342

    damagedduck
    Member
    from Greeley Co

    looks like cool idea,THANKS for posting this!
     
  14. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,003

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    This is great! thanks for the tech!
     
  15. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,595

    gatz
    Member

    Rich, great tech. Gonna use that idea (eventually)
    BTW, I saved this to a MSWord doc, then a pdf so I'll have it on the 'puter.
    With your approval, Rich, I can send it on to other HAMBers via PM

    Gatz
     
  16. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,838

    the-rodster
    Member

    Approval granted :)

    Rich
     
  17. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 5,106

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I guess the epoxy insulates the bushing from the shaft? Or is the shaft still a conductor?
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  18. Molonewolf
    Joined: Jan 22, 2012
    Posts: 195

    Molonewolf
    Member

    Nice I'll be using this tip.
     
  19. Kramer
    Joined: Mar 19, 2007
    Posts: 911

    Kramer
    Member

    Sweet, I was wondering how I was going to do my horn. I hate dash horn buttons. Thanks for posting.
     
  20. Jethro
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,604

    Jethro
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thank you for another good problem solver!
     
  21. George G
    Joined: Jun 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,274

    George G
    Member

    I was pondering this very dilemma. Thanks
     
  22. BratRod
    Joined: Oct 10, 2007
    Posts: 51

    BratRod
    Member

    Great! An elegant solution but far from obvious. Definitely bookmarking this one Thanks!!
     
  23. Carter
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,445

    Carter
    Member


    Looks like the bushing is plastic in the center, so it would be insulated from the shaft even without the epoxy.
     
  24. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    you big dummy...shoulda held out for royalties...
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  25. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 5,106

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL


    Yeah, I didn't notice that at first.
     
  26. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,188

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

  27. mace69
    Joined: Apr 11, 2010
    Posts: 153

    mace69
    Member
    from mass

    Great idea Rich, I'll be using that one. You got my vote.
     
  28. doctor chip
    Joined: Dec 10, 2010
    Posts: 82

    doctor chip
    Member
    from Delevan NY

    Good write up! If I may, I'll add a couple points of potential screw ups that I managed to find. The shaft on my 56 vicky is a smaller diameter than the bushing and there is not much clearance inside the column. To keep it centered, I suggest inserting about 3 equally spaced brads into the epoxy between shaft and bushing so it doesnt become a "cam". I also got the bright idea (dont know why) to make a disconnect in the wire next to the bushing. I drilled the hole in the shaft a couple inches from the bushing and put shrink tubing over connection. Like I said, there is not much clearance inside the column and this set-up rubbed. It also didnt allow for the rivets to hold the brush on the column. So my "tip of the day " is to do it like Rodster says. Also check your shaft in a lathe to make sure its not bent - another possible cause for the cam effect
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2012
  29. WOW, this is AWESOME. Thanks so very much. I have the parts on order and will be doing this in my wagon with the Borgenson box. Also, I believe that a 1.5 ID x 1.75 ID exhaust reducer will couple the stock outer column tube to the top or the Borgenson box. Haven't got that far as yet.
     

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