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Hot Rods Save of the day!!(single seater)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rusty rocket, Mar 14, 2017.

  1. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 493

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    Hahaha, what a coward. You can weld back anything you needed but already cut off, open a few beers and go for it.
    It'll be a lot of fun and later you can be like me and wish you'd waited.

    You should weigh it (and the pieces you cut off), then again when completed. Think you can get it down to 10 or 15 pounds?
     
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  2. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    No I think Ill wait, besides its cast iron no welding on it for me. I dont think there is anyway in hell that it will ever weigh 10/15 pounds/:)
     
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  3. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    [QUOTE="Fabber McGee,

    You should weigh it (and the pieces you cut off), then again when completed. Think you can get it down to 10 or 15 pounds?[/QUOTE]Took the scale down to the shop and put the bell housing the pieces I had already cut off and the two frame brackets that mount to the frame----52.6 pounds now thats a chunk of cast iron
     
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  4. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 493

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    Not surprising. They probably didn't break very many of them. It won't be working very hard in it's new life.
    I'll bet you can get it under 20 pounds pretty easily.
     
  5. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,597

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    Keep in mind you will be attaching another 40 something pound assembly to that casting that hangs from the four bolts and no other cross member. Wouldn't go too crazy with the lightening program around those bolt holes.
    A note on the exhaust split. Several folks have reported gutting the heat riser hole sawing an opening then bolting a home made exit there rather than trying to weld or braze old Carbonized cast iron to another chunk of Carbonized cast iron especially when both chunks are 70 years old or so.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2018
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  6. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 6,659

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thats where those multiple dodads squirting gas in and bigger pistons, headers and gearing come in handy. The extra weight down low may help in handling as well...it's all about balance.
     
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  7. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I hear ya on the bell housing, I can take a bit more off but its not going to be light weight by any means. As for the exhaust manifold thats a good idea on the heat riser. Fabbing up a steel plate would be way easier and fit the homebuilt back yard build vibe I'm going for.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2018
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  8. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,597

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    Part of the design can be a section of the exhaust pipe extending up into the riser chamber to block most of the flow toward the rear of the manifold. The way you work metal should be easy peasy. Won't completely separate 1-3 from 4-6 but close enough for back yard buggies. Might even make up a few to sell to family and friends...
     
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  9. Garpo
    Joined: Jul 16, 2016
    Posts: 66

    Garpo

    Get the wheels on before finalizing height of the headlights. If you look at vintage era "sports / racers" like Bugatti or even Bentley headlights were usually both big and high. Bigger lamps were able to capture and focus more of the bulb's light. Mounting higher enabled the light to reach further up the road.
    Go forward a decade and lights worked a bit better, and the height came down a bit. Read somewhere that about a third of the lamp should be below the crown of the fender or wheel.
    I think early A commercial headlamps would look good on your mounts.
    But it is your car so our opinions are just opinions - build it how YOU like it
    Garpo
     
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  10. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    This build is a use what I have or can buy the cheapest. Ive said it before, every other build I have done escalates money or parts wise. My goal is to build it as cheap as possible.
     
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  11. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    My buddy and I started getting the six ready to pull from its cube van home. I hope my cherry picker will reach thru the door and not tip over. I did take the intake/exhaust manifold off to lose a bit of weight. IMG_2831.JPG IMG_2832.JPG
     
  12. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,597

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    Think I might pull the oil filter and plumbing in case you need to twist things to get it out. The mounting is different from a car location as is the coil mount. Just be careful.
     
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  13. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Yes the oil filter and fan will come off for sure. Thanks for the idea on the exhaust split at the heat riser. If I do split it that looks like an easy job.
     
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  14. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 3,846

    atch
    Member

    rocket,

    It isn't any of my business how you do this, but consider pulling that distributer also. I bet those things are made out of unobtanium. Sure would hate to hear you're scouring the bushes to find another one.
     
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  15. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,597

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    If you do that exhaust split I will take any mistakes you make. Seriously if you try it it be great if you could photo doc it.
     
  16. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Great Idea!
     
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  17. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I'm still on the fence on the split. On one hand it should be done because that is what would have been done in the day and its just plain Kool. On the other hand I want to run the pipe out the hood and up the side of the car using a 35/6 Ford inner drive shaft, running two up the side on such a small car might be overpowering. I dont know this is a design as you build project.:)
     
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  18. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    My buddy had a 35/36 ford drive shaft that I traded for lunch today. Came home and wired it up to see what its going to look like. I've had it in my head that I wanted to run it up high but Im thinking I like the last picture, maybe up in the rear a bit more(half way between the frame and stainless trim) IMG_2843.JPG IMG_2844.JPG IMG_2845.JPG
     
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  19. Been subscribed since day one, love to watch someone else's mind untie the "Gordian knot" I guess.
    Is there rear tire clearance to run it just above and parallel to the front 3/4's of the frame? "First blush" is post war bumper car profile. May even have to extend it to just beyond the vertical face of the rear tire by adding header tube length?
    Regardless, incredible vision of what can be!
     
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  20. Peanut 1959
    Joined: Oct 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,107

    Peanut 1959
    Member

    Definitely, the third pic.
     
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  21. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,597

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    The stock exhaust dump is behind cylinder six, or could be between 5 and 6 depending on which manifold is mounted. You might be dealing with some tight quarters and sharp bends, and quite a bit of heat near your right foot.
     
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  22. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I dont think I will have a heat issue. I'm planing on exiting the hood and around the car, at least thats whats swimming in my head right now.
     
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  23. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 6,659

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That would be x3 for pic 3...;)
     
  24. ^^^^^^^^and me 4 for 3!:)
     
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  25. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Well I think it will be some where close to number three. I have asked several buddys and thats here thoughts as well.
     
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  26. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 3,846

    atch
    Member

    For some reason I'm thinking the end of the exhaust would look best about half way between the top of the frame rail and the body line; which probably is about 4 inches higher than pic 3. But again that's just my $0.02 worth.
     
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  27. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    You are correct the body line and the stainless are the same:)
     
  28. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 6,659

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I am thinking that @atch has a good point...perhaps take pic 3 raise the fwd wire to bring the pipe up at the front till it flows with the trim and the frame. Raising just the front may make the rear level to the kickup so then adjust both wires up till desired look is met keeping pipe parallel to trim.

    Is there going to be a oval ended slot where the pipes come out of the side panel?
     
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  29. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 2,732

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I dont know how the pipe is going to run thru the hood yet but my thought is as close to the top of the frame rail as I can get it so the hood has a small notch at the bottom.
     
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  30. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 6,659

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I see you want access via easy removal...you could just curve up and back that might even look cool too...if you have to.
     

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