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Rusty Bores

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FSHTNK, Apr 22, 2008.

  1. FSHTNK
    Joined: Apr 8, 2008
    Posts: 75

    FSHTNK
    Member

    Hey, I had my 324 Rocket all machined up, and I painted her real purty. But before I could assemble her, work and family comitments kept me outa the shed for a couple months, now the bores all have a light coating of surface rust:eek:. Should I go back for a re-hone, or is there something I can do at home?
    Any suggestions would be appreciated. Any 'rust solutions I found here involved rebuilder engines, not a fresh one.
     
  2. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 9,622

    RichFox
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not having seen it I would guess that I would hit it with some WD40 and Scotch Brite and run it.
     
  3. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,310

    R Pope
    Member

    I'd use penetrating oil, not WD40, but the Scotchbrite pad will do it if it's just a bit of rust. If the hone marks look dulled, it may need a touch-up honing. Fresh machined surfaces sure do rust quick!
     
  4. Scotchbrite and (one of the few instances that I would recommend) WD-40. It has fish oil in it, just wipe clean before assembly.
     
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  5. Dago 88
    Joined: Mar 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,614

    Dago 88
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just curious, what's it going in ?
    Cheers Dago.
     
  6. FCCOOL
    Joined: Jun 13, 2005
    Posts: 276

    FCCOOL
    Member

    what effect does the fish oil in wd have? i use wd on the bores instead of oil, i wipe everything with metho before putting the head o & thinners becuase i have a copper gasket wich i fit with 3bond, then i sprayed the wd in the spark plug holes.
    i had simular problems with mine, i spent alot on machining and then the motor sat for a year before i put it together, i kept wiping wd in the bores but if you leave it too long it still rusts, i just wiped lightly over the rust with a scourer then put wd back on to protect it. I hope it runs in ok.
     
  7. FSHTNK
    Joined: Apr 8, 2008
    Posts: 75

    FSHTNK
    Member

    At this stage Dago, it's going in my garage:D. If I git my Shite together, there is a 54 98 coupe sitting in the panelshop. (But then I also have a 455.........)
     

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  8. Dago 88
    Joined: Mar 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,614

    Dago 88
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is really cool FSHTNK .I had a '54 "88" coupe, years ago. It was another one of them I never should have sold it cars. Here is a pic, if you don't mind me hi jacking your thread.
    Cheers Dago.
     

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  9. time_xx
    Joined: Sep 16, 2007
    Posts: 161

    time_xx
    Member

    Personally, I would use light machine oil and a hone on a drill. You want to keep the crosshatch pattern, which will be difficult with scotchbrite...
     
  10. FSHTNK
    Joined: Apr 8, 2008
    Posts: 75

    FSHTNK
    Member

    That's what I thought. I'll try the scotchbrite & wd40 trick this w/e. If the crosshatch pattern is affected, I'll have to drag it's sorry arse back to the machine shop.
     
  11. The Law
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 248

    The Law
    Member
    from N. AZ


    It's easy to get carried away with a hone sometimes. I would stick with the scotchbrite and a lubricant. WD or a penetrating oil will work fine. Like others have stated, just ensure that you clean the bore before you drop in the piston. Acetone works well, or brakleen.
     

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