A 1.8 tip is a tad large for topcoating, you may see even better results by stepping down to a 1.3 to 1.4 size tip. That 1.8 gun would kick ass for high build!
anybody try to put single stage automotive paint over rusteoleum. have a coupe someone painted flat black with rusteoleum that looks like crap
To this,it only has 2 coats on it now,MORE cheap painting info here:: http://rolledon.forummotion.com/
Do the hardener as marked on the hardener container. Farm and Fleet and Tractor Supply have enamel hardener.
Here's a couple shots of my last daily driver , shot with RustOleum satin black , thinned with acetone & shot through my siphon-feed gun . Turned out great & got lots of compliments , even after I told 'em it was RustOleum , lol ! BTW , I had no intentions of ever repainting over it with "real" car paint - it was a daily driver & not worth a big $$ paintjob .
I realize this thread is a year old thread, and do understand the "Great Debate", Rustoleum type paint jobs can evoke. On ole beater 55 Fargo/Dodge truck, did strip most of old paint and primer off last year on the cab. I then shot on Canadas Home Hardware Rust Coat Grey primer, nothing but an synthetic (alkyd type) primer, no fish oil, and Urethane Fortifed, maybe just marketing hype. I have also used this primer on a few other cars, as a base primer instead of etching or epoxy primer. My recipe was strip off most of the paint to bare meal, acid prep (Pickelex 20), primer with Rust Coat primer, shot on with an HVLP or suction type gun, 2-3 coats, thinned 25 % with medium speed acrylic enamel reducer. I let this cure 2-3 weeks, then used 2 k urethane high build primer, all fillers, then 2 k urethane primer surfacer. This was blocked and wetsanded. The top coat on 1 was acrylic enamel, PPG Omni, and the other which turned out just as shiny and good, was a fast dry industiral grade high gloss alkyd enamel, with Evercoat wet look hardener, cut with Dupont enamel reducer, and had to use some urethane grade reducer too.. I have had absolutely no issues with either paint jobs, and they still look great, but the cars are garaged when not driven. Today doing some filler work on the roof of the 55. The rust coat alky enamel primer, sands 100 % beautiful, no clogging, nice fine dust, much the same as urethane grade and lacquer primers. My experince has been like this with these products. The only time i have some issues with this type of paint not drying and very long curing, was when My Son would lay on super thick coats of paint on something, and then did not like the results....
My beater is done in spray can Rustoleum. Stops Rust for one color and the 2X coverage for the other color. The latter has gone flat after about 18 months and I noticed Simple Green was pulling the color off the other day when I cleaned some oily spots off it. The door that I replaced last ... when did I replace that door again? I bought it a year ago, I think I must have painted it and put it on in October. Anyways, I took my time with it and prepped it better and that paint still looks decent. Somebody keyed it in a couple spots and I just masked, sanded a bit and sprayed it again. No big deal. It's a good 50-footer, up close you can see where I rushed in some spots and it's not that great, but it keeps it all one color and looks decent enough.
Yup, easy enough for damage control. I shot on some Rust Coat Enamel on the back of this trucks cab last year. With no hardener, it is hard as rock, and you cannot scratch no matter how hard you dig your fingernail into it. Just for laughs, wetsanded it with 1000, and hand rubbed some polishing compound, smooth as glass and wicked shiny. I have had no trouble with this paint fading on even a lot of outdoor items sitting outside 7/24. Just got back from taking 11YO Son for ride in this truck, we live on gravel road, drove for some miles on very dry dusty limestone based roads. I told Him, this is why I would never ever spend big money ona paint job, no matter what vehicle. we would like to build this Kid a traditional type open Hotrod, with a 251 mopar flat 6, dual carb, headers, and a B&W R10 OD trans. Maybe we can find a 20s 30s Dodge Plym body and take it from there...
Not to change the subject and this isn't worth a new thread, but in this day and age of vandals, shitty drivers and chemicals in the air, driving around in a car with a $10,000 paint job is like using silk toilet paper. 5 years ago, a story about painting a car with Rustoleum would have sounded "hillbillyish". Now, it at least get's the ideas rolling. I still think a car deserves a nice paint job, but I sure as hell wouldn't spend what one cost.
Your bang on Fred, would and will never pay the big bux for a paint job. I will not use Rustoleum(Tremclad in Canada), but will use an industrial MC 200 alkyd high gloss enamel, it dries much faster too, to the touch in 1-2 hours, hard dry overnight. Any color, no metallics or pearls, 40-50 bux per gallon, add in hardener and reducer, just under a hunnert...
I used rustoleum on the back of my 1952 Ford F-8. It's a "hammered" finish. Used it on other things and if prepped correctly, its fine. Plus I can get it in quarts, and use it in my HVLP gun. I'm not into show vehicles for the most part. My vehicles are driven. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
And for other paint I used and inexpensive Summit Racing single stage polyurethane. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Looks good, and Urethane is a super hard shiny finish. I will not shoot this stuff though, do not like ISOs, and am not really set-up to deal with them. Yes I shoot 2 k urethane primers, but an have the doors up, and such. The enamel hardener is about as much as I will go in this direction now. I can also buy cheaper urethane here, but kinda shy away for the health and safety reasons...
I like the hammerite too - most recently on the floor boards of the COE - Takes a bit to dry is the only drawback of any Rustoleum paint. Have to try the hammerite in qrts if I have a bigger project. Used red Rustoleum spray on the valve covers and qrts by brush on the Dart intake, matt black on the aircleaner etc....
Summit racing single stage urethane,my truck is candy apple red part number is sum-304. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks - Appears to be relabeled Kirker like Eastwoods paint. Looks like it lays down well. Found a big thread on it showing different cars painted with it. This Beetle was a dude's first time project in horrid shop conditions with Summit paint..... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up304 http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/summit-racing-paint-184136.html
PINOT GRIGIO IS THE LATEST THINNER ! Works well indoors or out ! Roller, spray, or brush. Your choice !
Vintage or contemporary, dry or extra dry......... love to see the paint job after a few bottles of this thinner added into the mix......sum bitch that would be a fun paint job
check out the thread "Finally Got A Henry J" Swade painted his Henry J with rustoleum. Including the graphics with alot of good step by step detail.
I have used the semi gloss black on a ot vehicle and everybody loves it. I also used it on the frame and floors of my 54 as well. On both applications I have thinned it with acetone and dried smooth and fast. A friend of mine has found that at lowes they can mix you just about any color you want in their valspar anti-rust armor oil based brand(same thing as rustoleum). I have also just recently seen that tractor supply has a oil based clear in their majic brand and was tempted to try something out and test its durability/compatibility. I had plans to get some paint mixed at lowes in the valspar brand, spray it let it dry, scuff it then try to lay some of the majic brand clear and see how it works out. And if it seems to work, I would attempt to buff it out and see what kind of gloss and durability I get out of it, but I haven't had a chance to try it out but when I do, I will report the results.
has anyone tried to paint over a Rustoleum paint job ? will new paint "bite" into the older Rustoleum ? I would hate to have to strip the car to bare metal to save a few bucks on paint !
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