Technical Rust repair reality check please.

I think most folks will agree with your method. I have friends that do this also, the hard part is refraining from welding more before its cool.
I personally tack all my patches in with mig, about half an inch apart, then grind the tacks down flush, then tig right over top of the mig tacks. I used to use mig , but its easier to metal finish a tig or gas weld, but if you don't have either of those, the mig will definitely work. I just find that after a certain amount of hammer and dolly work, that the patch will crack either right on the mig weld, or right beside it.
Wray taught me to weld an inch, planish an inch, weld an inch, planish an inch, and that way, any warpage that occurs, you will know for sure where it originates from. You planish that one inch area only until the panel is smooth again, with no warpage, then weld another inch.

 

The bottle I use looks about the usual size of a scuba tank (I forget what size that is). I live near enough to an Airgas that I like something that's easy to pick up and handle without a dolly.

I wasn't so much suggesting you go the panel bonding route as offering it as an option if you didn't want to get into welding just for the sake of repairing your cab and getting it on the road.

 

Albertaboy thanks for posting and to all for the positive reinforcement. This gives encouragement to all hesitant to jump in. I start my intro welding class at the local college in less than 2 weeks. I can't wait. Just wish I wouldn't have waited until this late in life. Turning 49 but I guess you need to start sometime!

 

Patmanta, that is how I took your post. It's an option and his it's place and I will consider it along the way. I am proceeding with learning to weld as I've put off learning way to long. Cheers.

 

TweedDeluxe- You're welcome and I give thank to all as well. I'm not surprised many out there are just as hesitant as I. I can not attend a formal course without booking holidays far in advance. I will consider for next year. In the mean time, I posted a Craigslist ad and found a 3rd year apprentice who lives just a few blocks away. As the oil industry has tanked somewhat, many welders are unemployed here right now. I will learn some basic stuff from him and build from there. Basically, because of this thread, I start welding on Monday.

 

Start looking for a damaged, abandoned or a entire "roller" someone wants off there property. They are out there if your willing to look over a few weeks.

If you have to drive 10 hours to pick up a truck from a dry state or just somewhere where the thing is in good original condition then so be it. The hours and headaches saved are worth it.

Further more if you can get one that is a complete roller or with a frozen drive train so much better. You will end up with many "NOS" parts. These nos parts can be sold and justify the drive and maybe the purchase price of the truck.
You will end up with a cab, fenders, bed, grill, etc that need very little work done to them. Sell the frame, drive train, all the bits and pieces. If something is better then whats on your truck swap it out. Do not throw anything away. Be neat label everything, and put it all in boxes.

If you get something damaged like that had a tree fall on it(been here) cut the lower half of the cab out weld it to the upper half and you just saved something good from going to the crusher.

This may sound expensive to some. But, the "good" patch panels that won't cost you points are expensive and will add up to the cost of a "roller" with a good floor or such fast. You may think you just have cab corners. But cab corners can turn into rockers, body/seat supports, side skirt supports, running boards, running board supports, and so on.


I don't want to discourage you. But, look over the truck and see what needs to be done to get it where you want it. If you find your looking at just 50 hours and a few hundred in panels/ renting or borrowing equipment then it is not so bad and dismiss the above.

But, if you are looking at a realistic 200, 300, or more hours of fitting, flexing, rolling, shaping, and fitting your own parts to make something that looks like new then a roller may be worth looking into.

 

cerial. You do not discourage. You make good points and agree completely. I continue to look everyday for what you describe. I can't remember the last time I seen a 1940 Ford truck roller in my area. Not even in neighboring provinces. There are plenty of projects advertized but I am stuck on the 1940 Ford.
Good points. Thank you.

 

I think that you should just give up and let me have the truck
My RPU will be done, the 40 could be my next project

Seriously though, good plan on learning to weld. Make sure you buy a good quality name brand wire feed welder. Miller is what I would go with. .023 S6 solid wire running 75% argon-25% CO2.
KMS tools has great deals on equipment.
A welding course like the beginners night classes that we offer at Nait would be a good place to start.
I usually give added instruction to people in my courses aimed specifically at their interests, beyond what is normally part of the course.
Good luck and be sure to post progress updates.
Larry.

 

Larry
Great to hear from you. Funny you should write this, I am about to head over to KMS right after checking my email.

I'd like to take the NAIT course- except I work shift work and would miss half the classes. I have to wait unit February each year to book holidays so maybe I'll see you in 2016.

After this next Oct to Dec 2015 course, when's the next one? How many times a year do you run a course?

In the mean time, I have a 3rd yr coming over to teach some basics. Being likely trained at Nait, I can expect the best right.... Right??? Larry???

Are there any local clubs or associations you'd suggest or people I should get to know?? Thanks
Cheers!!
Vern

 

We run the night classes at least 5 times through the school year. 2 or 3 nights a week depending on the course for 3-6 weeks.
If the 3rd yr. apprentice you have coming over to help you is up on his stuff, I'm sure he will help you a lot in getting going.
One thing that is undisputable is that at Nait we train more welders than any other trade school in North America, and our welders are also recognized as among the best around the world.
As far as clubs go, there are a bunch of good guys in the Edmonton Street Rod association.

Good luck.

 

Larry
Are there any 40/41 Ford pickups around that you recall? I asked as in the last 3 years, I've attended more than 25 show n shines and I've never seen one. I frequently see a maroon '38 pickup and the occasional 40 coupe or sedan, but no pick ups.
I'll have a look at the ESRA. Thanks.

 

Not too many 40-41 trucks that I can recall. There was a bright red one for sale recently on the local Kijiji, hopelessly street rodded to the point of being ugly and bastardized.
Here's another one for sale that is let me puke purple and is just horrible. Ruined is the best I can say about it.
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...er/1081160892?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
The challenge in building a 40 pickup is to keep it clean and classic, if you search on here there are plenty of examples of how to build a really nice 40 Ford truck, use the example of what I posted as what not to do.

 

I've seen them both and you describe them perfectly. My build will be traditional and no street or rat rod for me. I will continue to read the forum.

 

I ordered & just received the Metal Shaping Zone DVD dedicated to forming body metal with hand tools. I am 40 minutes into it & probably have more than got my money back. The instructor shows how to form & shape complex shapes on a bench & with ordinary tools. Using things most people have kicking around or can get w/o any expense. His methods could allow a person to make a lot of parts made without an arsenal of equipment. This would be a good introduction for you into metal work & a good start to grow from. You are lucky with Edmonton at your doorstep as there are so many sources that if you followed the MZone DVD that you could set yourself up for a very low cost.

There is a lot of talent on the HAMB and I am not doing justice to all the talent I have read through on the HAMB site. MP&C and Metalsurgeon. The MZone dvd has shown me so much in a few short minutes & that is all I need is to see how it is done. I can run with what I have learned with a new confidence. Tools & hammers are easy to come by or a version created after a trip to Canadian Tire or Princess Auto. Check it out. The cost delivered was $80CAD. That is less than just about any sheetmetal part that I need plus shipping & handling into NW Ontario. It is money well spent IMO.

http://metalshapingzone.com/epages/...d5-9af5-4b32-b689-b436b9abb456/Categories/DVD

All the best,
Glenn

 

That Metal Shaping Zone video is supposed to be very good. I'm planning on getting it myself. David, the instructor in the video, is on the HAMB as well. He is 'mindover'. If you have any questions, I'm sure he would help you out.

 

Good plan. I'll get that video too. Thanks.
Btw- I started welding on scrap.. First try wasn't good but I know I'll get better. Still working on getting acquainted with the welder too. I should post a picture of my beads so we can all laugh together.

 

I would go for it but do a little research before investing in tools. This could be welded using small O/A torch with some practice.

Short version is spend time fitting your panels. Think about access after welding for metal finishing

When getting ready to weld there should be no gap. Heat shrinks, the more you heat it the more it shrinks. If there is no gap you can fuse the panels together ore use very thin wire as a filler thus minimizing the heat.

Shrink only occurs in the heat effected zone / blue area. If your panels are good prior to welding the blued area is the only area you should need to work when done.

Learn the difference between hammer on and off dolly.

Invest in a book called the Key to metal bumping.

Tead up on planishing welds and how to go about it.

Cab corners usually are pretty strong shapes and will not warp too much when welded.

Good luck and have fun.


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