Rust removal.......the miracle of molasses!

I use metal and plastic drums. Never a problem with either one. Try to keep it cool, because it ferments and really stinks if left in hotter climates. Never tried to heat the solution for that reason. Be prepared to counter the flash rust that you hear about because it happens in what seems like milliseconds.

 

The flash rust can be stopped and reversed by using Prep and Etch. Some of the parts shown in my previous post are still rust free after two years in storage. It is phosphoric acid and it can also be used to remove rust. Molasses will remove all the rust but will not eat into the metal.

 

Nice tip Thanks
Here are a couple of more pics, this is what i took out last night I gave some stuff 14 days. Last night our humidity was down around 70% made it much easier to dry. Went from rusty gold to platinum

 

Wow that is impressive! You would think that with what the chemical dippers charge to do a car body there would be a molassas dipping business probability. This looks like a better deal as you are not thinning out the remaining metal.

 

rottenleonard, I think at least one place in arlington Tx does this, only they heat it to about 400 degrees.

http://www.motortopia.com/worldofro...6-f-100-an-environmentally-friendly-bath-469/ .

I had asked about a shower setup earlier in this thread, without an answer. I did so as If it works this could save a lot of money, & problems. Well I decided to set up a test bed on Tuesday nite. I made a pvc frame over a plastic storage container. I rapped this with plastic sheeting. inside I placed a small water foutain pump attached to a pvc pipe. right now I have the metal box (2 doors with majestic imbosed in them) from the back of my 27' essex sitting in side with the molasses running over it. it is not getting completly covered with fluid though.

Day one results tempature inside is higher then outside the setup, not sure why.
entire box is wet, probably from wicking.
appears the rust is breaking down on the entire box, but at a higher rate where fluid is running over it. Im going to continue photoing the progress & will post the results if anyone is interested.

 

Cool,, What size is the shower box you make and how much mollasses are you useing,,, Tim Jones

 

plastic container is better as metal will rust at the water line buddy of mine had a tank big enough to dip a whole car.About the same size as a shipping container. he's done quite a few different cars 35 ford 5window ,59 caddy ,early falcon,etc .Run air lines around the bottom of the tank to agitate the mixture take the car out every few days and pressure wash.the process is a little slow and a bit labour intensive but safe cheap with a great end result

 

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=149a5ae517&view=att&th=14018fc7c9fb57c7&attid=0.1&disp=thd&realattid=1441591412407664640-local0&zw[/IMG]

not sure if this pic will load, the container is about 30 quarts. Ill post more pics if this works. if it doesnt any info on how to load is appreciated.

 

well that didnt work;-/

 

I have about 5 gallons with the around 20 gallons of water.

 

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=149a5ae517&view=att&th=14018fc7c9fb57c7&attid=0.1&disp=thd&realattid=1441591412407664640-local0&zw[/QUOTE]

 

Put fresh batch of molasses in the stock tank (300 gals.) and loaded with some Willys parts on the 15th. Pulled the parts today, hosed them off and treated them with phosphoric acid. At ten days the parts were totally rust free. Put in new batch of parts and will see how long it takes this time. I like the idea of adding air to the mix. It may rejuvenate the mixture. What sort of air supply was used. Norm

 

I have used molasses on small parts and am thinking of pouring a mix into my spare hood and sealing it to remove rust between the hood and the inner braces, any thoughts on my idea?

 

Henry's-----
One problem with dipping or soaking. The mix gets into all cracks and crevices. Once cleaned to bare metal it will then be susceptible to new rust. soaking in etch could stop the flash rust and protect it for a while, but the best solution would be using something called "Creep". It allows protection to get into places like pinch weld joints, etc. I don't know much more than that because I haven't used it (yet). It could be that unless you have a severe problem you would be better off leaving it alone. Norm

 

On a few parts I did I towel dried them, it cleaned all the rust inside the doors couldn't towel inside so I used my heat gun to dry. Then sprayed it with WD 40, now I wish I would have had red rust primer ready instead. Oh well theirs next time

 

Valvoline makes a spray that creeps, between panels pinch weld areas & such. It comes in a kit or sold seperatly. English color paint supply company here in san antonio carry's it. Can be painted over once dry.

 

try this,+hyytt6543+_.,><.,:"ioki:":>,///jjhtrrrrrpp-=-=-==-=nmhytgfryaoaoalokijuhyg,so tired,waittheresmore2doo===----;;'''/../.nnmkiujhs62524444255.ehh?

 

this is a couple of pics of the test sample I set up. Happy to say any metal that has remained wet from fluid wicking, has rust breaking down. tomorrow I will open it up and take more pictures.
https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0/?ui=2&ik=149a5ae517&view=att&th=140231f76f72d7ff&attid=0.2&disp=thd&realattid=1441769697154433024-local1&zw

hope these work.

 

https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0/?ui=2&ik=149a5ae517&view=att&th=14028399141d4526&disp=zip

hopes!

 

https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0...p=thd&realattid=1441591412407664640-local0&zw
https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0...p=thd&realattid=1441769697154433024-local0&zw
https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0...p=thd&realattid=1441858068419230465-local0&zw
https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0...p=thd&realattid=1441858068419230465-local1&zw
https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0...p=thd&realattid=1441858068419230465-local2&zw
https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0...p=thd&realattid=1441858068419230465-local3&zw

 

sorry pics still don't show up, Tim Jones

 

My dip is an old organic fertiliser container made out of heavy duty plastic with a tap at the bottom they come with a heavy duty stainless steel frame around the outside it's about 5 foot square I got it from a turf farm near me. Holds about 100 litres .To agitate the mixture i have an air gun with a length of copper pipe that reaches to the bottom of the container,couple of bursts with low pressure does the job or stir with a long handled shovel been using molasses for rust removal for about 15 years.

 

Mikeerat
How long does your mix remain effective? What is the mix ratio? I trying to determine if air to the mix will lengthen the time it is effective. Mine starts to loose effectiveness after about four loads (two months). Norm

 

Mikeey Rat
Your tank sounds similar to the ones we have here, but ours are smaller. The are the size of our standard shipping pallet. 37" x 45" by 37" tall or 94m x 114m x 94m. I'm thinking about splicing two together (45" x 70" approx.). That would be about 500 gal. It would be easier if I could find a larger standard container.

 

I have a cpl of rusty flathead blocks.... Looks like it's molasses time !! Thanks for the info, everyone .

4TTRUK

 

Since you obviously have lots of experience with this method...
Would you mind telling us once the mixture gets black and doesn't work anymore do you just dump it or can you re-vitalize it with more molasses?

Getting anything other than food-grade molasses is just about impossible around here and it's not cheap.

Thanks

 

Some one suggested that if you have a gravel or crushed stone driveway, the used liquid can be poured onto the loosened surface of the driveway, then re compacted. It will act as a binder forming a harder surface and keeping dust to a minimum. Can also be used as a soil fertilizer for plants liking acidic soils. A few year back they experimented around here with mixing molasses and sugar beet residue with road salt. Seems it increased the efficacy ice melting and also kept the solutioin on the road way for a longer period of time.

http://www.cas.org/news/insights/science-connections/beet-molassis

 

I intend to clean my wire wheels with molasses because I would be a bit worried about blasting them.

A question for the OP - do you have a build thread for the car on here?.

David

 

Gizmojoe
Where are you looking? Most farm supply store carry it. Its used for cattle feed. It's not something your going to find in New York city, but in the farm and dairy areas you should be able to find it. I pay $9.95 for a 3 gal. pail.
Norm