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Rust encapsulating paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Amoros, Sep 14, 2012.

  1. Amoros
    Joined: Nov 11, 2009
    Posts: 123

    Amoros
    Member

    Is Por 15 really better than something else like maybe Rustoleum.

    You guys have any recommendations based on experience?
     
  2. CDXXVII
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 141

    CDXXVII
    Member
    from Vermont

    I am not a big POR fan. For a dry weather car it's probably OK but in the "real" world it does not adhere well. Even with all the surface prep it can peel off in sheets.
     
  3. Amoros
    Joined: Nov 11, 2009
    Posts: 123

    Amoros
    Member

    Didn't know that, thanks
     
  4. dave lewis
    Joined: Dec 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,364

    dave lewis
    Member

    I use hammerite..smooth finish, spray can..gloss black.
    I believe it to be similar product to por 15.
    $7. A can..
    Works real well.
    Dave

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     

  5. 64ONEOFF
    Joined: Nov 30, 2011
    Posts: 378

    64ONEOFF
    Member
    from Md.

    I have never had a problem with por 15, I have never seen it peal off. It literally takes 2 weeks for it to wear off your skin if you get it on you. I have used it many times on clean bare metal. Good luck
     
  6. Flathead Johnny
    Joined: Jul 26, 2011
    Posts: 738

    Flathead Johnny
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from MA

    i keep buying Por15 because it stick so well to everything....the dam stuff does not come off
     
  7. Fogger
    Joined: Aug 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,515

    Fogger
    Member

    I have used Por-15 on axles and suspension and never had any issues of it chipping or pealing off. The front axle on my roadster had to be bent to correct the camber after it was coated with Por-15, even where the bottle jacks and chain contacted it didn't scuff or chip. I plan on using it on my current build and I like it better than powder coating.
     
  8. Sir Woosh
    Joined: Dec 1, 2008
    Posts: 2,273

    Sir Woosh
    Member

    I was at a friends shop while he was using POR-15. He didn't notice that it had dripped on a dusty tire. It had dried before he found it. Even though it fell on a layer of dust, it wouldn't let loose of the tire.

    POR-15 doesn't stick?
     
  9. Amoros
    Joined: Nov 11, 2009
    Posts: 123

    Amoros
    Member

    Can you paint over por 15? Does it dry smooth or does it leave a texture?
     
  10. chuckshomeservices
    Joined: Oct 21, 2011
    Posts: 76

    chuckshomeservices
    Member
    from mass

    I have been using por 15 for a long time and it really does seem to hold up better than all other paint. I have used their engine and header paint with great results. I even refinished a bathroom sink with one of their products and it still looks good. Saved my customer a ton of cash. Just dont get the shit on you or it will take weeks to come off. And make sure to only pour what you need out of the can and then seal it back up or the can will go bad. I bought a bunch of those cheap mason jars to keep the paint in and just toss them when empty.
     
  11. Stevie Nash
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,999

    Stevie Nash
    Member

    I like Por15 too. It goes on easy and looks great. Drips that hit the floor are still there after a year. It really sticks.
     
  12. Dave B.
    Joined: Oct 1, 2009
    Posts: 225

    Dave B.
    Member

    POR-15 is not made to be used as a top-coat. It is UV sensitive. The best way I've found to paint over it is to let it get dry-to-the-touch and then spray it with whatever color you choose. If you allow it to set-up completely, it's almost too smooth for the top-coat to stick properly, and trying to sand it is a b!+ch!!!

    Although POR-15 can be sprayed-on, it is made to be brushed on. It takes a long time to dry and flows out very well, leaving a glossy, smooth finish. You do need to apply it in a dust-free environment to prevent anything from settling into the paint.

    I've been using it for years and have never had any peeling issues. The only things I could imagine causing it to peel would be (1) if the surface wasn't cleaned properly before applying the POR-15 or (2) if the POR-15 was contaminated. Here's the company's link on how to use their product:
    http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/no read directions.pdf
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2012
  13. check out zero-rust! really great for inside door bottom that are hard to access because you can pour it in and slosh it around and it creeps into those areas where rust starts. http://zero-rust.com/
     
  14. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    NOTHING will stop rust. NOTHING. Had a 36 ford in the shop. Everything underneath was coated in the stuff. All of it was falling off 6 months later. Stuff sux. Total waste of time and money. Do a search. Plenty of info on it.
     
  15. zep058
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 599

    zep058
    Member

    Check out the KBS stuff, cheaper and better than por15
     
  16. henry29
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,835

    henry29
    Member

    I helped a friend pressure wash, and wire brush a 70's blazer frame a couple years ago, then sprayed it with chassis saver.

    It's held up fine and I haven't seen any signs of anything chipping or loose.

    It was a little bit cheaper than por15, I think around $30 a quart.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. one37tudor
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 146

    one37tudor
    Member

    I use POR-15 and other POR products and have never had an issue with peeling off a slightly rusty surface. The peeling issues usually are after using it on clean metal. The directions for it state to "Apply over rust" and there is a reason for that! If you apply it over clean metal you should rough up the surface with 60 or 90 grit to make it really bond to the metal.
    To paint over POR-15 they also sell a product called Ty-coat and it should be applied over the POR to promote the final coat of paint to stick to the POR.

    Having said that, I have found that on surfaces where you can easily get to, A product called "Rust Bullet" work very well and is much less expensive that the POR. Also, a little POR goes a long way so I usually purchase a 6 pack of the pint cans rather than the Quart sizes. Once open I have not had much luck keeping the remainder from going hard in the can. I use the POR in places where I would like it to get into seams and in areas where I can pour some in and then shake it around to coat all the surfaces. It is so thin it will get into all the cracks and seams.

    Also if you decide to spray the POR you will have to have some very good supplied air system even in a well ventilated area.

    Scott...
     
  18. I've seen Por15 both stick like crazy and peel right off.
    Its the prep, and surface conditions.

    They make a tie coat product to allow final top coat at a later date.

    follow the directions and you will be happy.


    Tried the chassis saver and liked that too. Again check the date in the can, don't put it on too thick, follow the directions.
     
  19. salf100
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 431

    salf100
    Member

    Used it on the floorboards in my F100. Worked great! Floors had lite surface rust. Once cleaned up with wire brush, it adhered really well. Painted some on non rusted metal and would not adhere. It's been on my floors since 2008 and it's a daily with no mats/carpet. It even hasn't lost it's shine !


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  20. hotrod40coupe
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,562

    hotrod40coupe
    Member

    I will second the KBS. Very durable and you can paint over it when it is dry to the touch.
     
  21. unklgriz
    Joined: Sep 12, 2005
    Posts: 286

    unklgriz
    Member

  22. 64ONEOFF
    Joined: Nov 30, 2011
    Posts: 378

    64ONEOFF
    Member
    from Md.

    If you are using it to coat major rust, Get off your ass and fix the rust first. Why waste the time or money to temporarily fix a problem the WILL ALWAYS COME BACK.....Por 15 Does work very well... If your working on a Honda or a Suburu, go for it, But if its a classic and your not gonna fix it right then dont fix it at all....There are plenty of sights out there for RATRODS .......Just saying.
     
  23. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,894

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I've been using POR 15 for about 30 years, now. since it first got offered in car magazines. (Actually I use Master Series and POR interchangeably) I love it, but it has it's limitations!
    First, I never use it under anything that is getting nice paint over it. That type of job deserves removing every bit of rust, and besides, I've had POR lift under some painting conditions, I believe the solvents are too strong.
    I use it to seal all my welded patches on the backside. I use it on the underfloor, inside floors, and trucks. Underneath, I POR it, wait 24 hrs, do a second coat, then while it's tacky, I undercoat (or more likely use bedliner) for an indestructable, roadworthy coating.
    If I cannot get to applying a topcoat right away, while the POR is tacky, I shoot a coat or 2 of primer over it. That way I sand and paitn the primer, not the POR, as almost nothing sticks to it!
    I sandblast chassis and use POR as a primer, then use their Chassis Coat as a topcoat. Real tough stuff!
    On a show car type car (Yeah, I know most of you HAMBers hate clean painted stuff!) I used the Master Series silver as a primer on clean blasted underfloors, frame, and trunk. I then used regular basecoat paint for the color, and topcoated it with Master's 2 part clear. After 3 years of this "show car" being on the road, is still looked perfect....and the stuff is so slick, it washes off easily so it's actually easy to keep clean!
    It's actaully hard to grind it off when you have to correct something and need to reweld on it.
    The only times I've had trouble with it sticking is with bad prep (I sometimes have helpers "help" me), or on weird days when it's cool, and damp and the metal feels damp, even if it doesn't look wet. POR does'nt like any moisture on the surfaces, though it does dry fastest when it's warm/hot and humid.
     
  24. jimbousman
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 543

    jimbousman
    Member

    Like most guys, I don't like to read instructions. That is until something doesn't work then I go back and say "Oh crap! Why didn't I read this...?" POR 15 doesn't work well on shiny new metal without some prep to make it less shiny. It never did. It never will. Even the "instructions" say so. It doesn't work over dust, dirt, or the least bit of oil or grease and the surface needs to be as dry as your grandpa Joe's scalp.

    That said 15 years ago I brushed this stuff on the bottom of my kid's Beetle floor pan. We wire brushed the loose stuff and brushed it over the surface rust. It's still there shiny as hell and with no signs of rust through or even a bubble in the surface. However in areas where we sanded it smooth and shiny, it flaked off. Lesson learned.
     
  25. rotorwrench
    Joined: Apr 21, 2006
    Posts: 633

    rotorwrench
    Member

    The Por 15 stuff seems to work the best in areas where you can't strip & clean to bare metal easilly (other than acid or alkali dipping). FoMoCo and other manufactureres didn't use a lot of primer in areas where it couldn't be sprayed in the 30s, 40s, & 50s. If they had dipped the cars like they did in later years, they wouldn't have corroded as bad as they did, especially in the rust belt states.
     
  26. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,354

    MP&C
    Member

    In some cases it doesn't stick to other paints. In our case, it peeled off in sheets where some had been brushed over scuffed original paint adjacent to the unpainted steel.

    IMO it is a good paint to use in areas that are unaccessible to properly prep/abrade in removing surface rust for painting with epoxy primers/topcoats. This would include inside of doors, rocker panels, quarter panels, etc. For any area that will be top coated, i.e.: uses the finish that the rest of the car uses, I would remove any surface rust, repair any pitted/rusted through panels with new metal, and paint using epoxy primers as the substrate to your topcoats. Given the tendancy for POR to not stick to other paints, it is not worth the risk of rework to use it in conjunction with topcoats, especially on a customer's car.
     
  27. I bought a '36 frame this spring. It had been blasted but had sat outside for a while so there was light surface rust on the entire frame. I brushed POR15 on the entire frame; everywhere I could reach. It sat on my open trailer for a couple of months because it was been too damned hot to work on it, either inside or outside. After a couple of months I noticed the smooth, shiny surfaces had started to dull. UV rays had started to deteriorate it. I sprayed some Rustoleum Gloss Black on everything I could reach and now, after another couple of months of exposure it still looks good.
    Their instructions tell you it is NOT UV stable, which proved to be true. If I had kept it inside, or had been able to get the suspension and body on the frame so it was 'protected', I believe it would have been fine. I used POR15 on my '57 BelAir YEARS ago and it has held up very well.
    I have NO problems with the product. It has done everything they claim it will do, ..... if you follow their instructions/directions.
     
  28. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,412

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    tHESE "RUST PREVENTATIVE" paints are called MCU,s.Moisture cured urethanes.I like the master series paints.I scraped the surface rust off my galaxie floors then foam rollered on the silver rpp.This was in the winter at 20% humidity.IT LUVS humidity it helps it cure.It was 75 Degrees in my garage so i took damp towels and placed them over box fanswhen the humidity went up(I got a cheap humidity gaguge in the garage)to 60 % i applied it.That was 5 yrs ago.NO PEELING whatsoever.It has its limitation like chopped olds said .ROtted metal needs to be cut out n new metal welded in.NO CHICKEN WIRE NEWSPAPER N BONDO 4 ME!
     
  29. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,426

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    I wont do it
    rust never sleeps..and coverig it up isnt going to stop it or solve anything..on my shit..forgetaboutit.

    sand blast it, media blast it..or cut it out..cancer never sleeps even if you put a blanket on it and try to put it to bed, its still there.
    If I know about it, and its a Hot Rod or custom of mine..its got to go.

    I think this is just like putting lipstick on a pig

    Im from the rust belt..so maybe thats why I hate rust so dam much
    the opinions above are mine, and no one elses..do what you want
     
  30. motoandy
    Joined: Sep 19, 2007
    Posts: 3,321

    motoandy
    Member
    from MB, SC

    Used it on 2 projects and love it. Again where it was applied is not directly in the sun, Used it on my model A chassis than covered it with my black paint. Solid as a rock.
     

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