Rust conversion process question

Ok, i have done a search and it seems to go offline as threads progress. For this question let us consider only the following:
(1) I am in BFE with no access to a sandblaster or media blaster.
(2) I have two items at my disposal, Eastwood two part rust converter, and phosphate type rust converter.
(3) I have 36 grit 3" discs and a stainless wire wheel.
(4) Metal is flaked and pitted. I am using the 36 grit to remove the flake and the wire wheel to softly clean the pits in the metal.
(5) I have ground off the flake and cleaned the pits as well as they can be cleaned with the wire wheel.
(6) the metal is then washed down with laquer thinner till clean on a white cloth.
(7) Which converter product would you use at this point and why?
(8) What primer would you use to follow this treatment, and what additional prep is required?
(9) Would the primer then require a sealer, if so then what sealer, and what prep is needed for that?

I want to get this truk lid done right and put up till it is time for the outside skin work.
Thanks for your help.

 

Hey,

I'd suggest the following: Once you have used the 36 grit discs, I'd go with several strong washes of the phosphoric acid, allowing each one
time to remove as much of the iron oxide as possible, and stop the active rust. Once this process is completed I'd sand the treated area with 80 grit
production paper, and dust it off. Do not touch the sanded metal with
your hands. Next I'd shoot the panel with some etching primer, not an
epoxy, but an etching primer. That reason is as follows- you already have
rust present on the panel, todays epoxy primers don't have the chrome &
lead (both great elements in fighting rust) that primers once had. Primers
available today, will have a full time job just holding on to the metal. An
etching primer will provide your first line of defense against rust below your
paint job. Over the top of the etching primer goes a "good" epoxy primer.
Most good epoxy primers provide good build and adheasion. Epoxy can be
used under filler if you are a fan of this. After the filler repair is completed,
you'll need to reprime and block the repair atleast two times. Some use a
final over thinned coat of epoxy primer as a final sealer, just prior to a top
coat, and that's not a bad way to go.

Swankey Devils C.C.

"Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"