Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods Runs, sputters, dies, will not restart unless allowed to rest.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by El Caballo, Jan 2, 2021.

  1. El Caballo
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,920

    El Caballo

    My Galaxie is being a stinker, when I rebuilt the carb it was happy enough then one time I was just letting it idle and I blipped the throttle and it died and would only restart after being allowed to cool off. Now it starts and runs/sputters/dies/no restart. One thing I have noticed is that I hear a loud click after the engine turns over a couple times. Could it be the starter relay begins starting but gives up the ghost? The coil gets hot, too. Could the coil be sending me a message about a short somewhere?

    I checked to see if fuel is coming to the carb and it does, squirters work, I grounded the coil lead and it sparked, so did a pulled plug. New plugs and battery. I’m going to look for vacuum leaks but it doesn’t feel like that is the problem.

    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
  2. Check you ballast resistor, sometimes the car will not start until it cools off. HRP
  3. would a rotted pos or neg battery cable cause the same behavior?
    stillrunners likes this.
  4. caper
    Joined: Jun 12, 2009
    Posts: 36

    from Cape Cod

    Ford uses a section of resistor wire (large pink from ignition switch) rather than a ballast resistor.

  5. El Caballo
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,920

    El Caballo

    It has new ground and positive lead to the relay.

    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    gotta56forme likes this.
  6. 50 Merc Man
    Joined: Aug 2, 2020
    Posts: 324

    50 Merc Man

    Sounds like you might be out of time, about 180 degrees (a tooth off) pull distributor, get it back on TDC number one cylinder, try it again

    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
  7. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,441

    Tickety Boo
    from Wisconsin

    Fuel Filter ?
    firstinsteele likes this.
  8. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,573


    Condensor or coil.

    badshifter and AHotRod like this.
  9. That sounds loike an ignition issue. If your running electronicignition I would suspect a bad ignition module. Check for spark after it dies to narrow your search to fuel or ignition problems.
  10. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,912


    The "coil gets hot". I'd start there. It's probably already gone bad, so replace it and find out why. The guys suggesting the resistor wire give you a good place to start. Do you have a multi-meter? Start by checking the voltage to the coil.
    egads likes this.
  11. I agree if the "coil gets hot" there is a reason. I would start at the starter solenoid, if it is a 4 post one. A 4 post one is designed to put 12 volts to the ignition circuit when the ignition switch is in start position. Check the voltage from that post to ground with the key off and if you have 12 volts, it is putting voltage to the coil at all times, which could be why it is hot and probably fried. Next is the points/condenser or module, which if bad is not allowing the built up secondary voltage in the coil winding to dissipate through the plugs. Remote cranking the engine with a grounded plug out to see if it is firing will reveal the direction to take.
  12. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,370


    Coils get hot. My money is on the condenser based solely on the little info we have.
  13. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,073

    from Alabama

    You need to go through the "list".

    Start with the most basic first. The grounds. Wherever the fire goes to ground check it and check all wires. Make sure you have enough grounds.
    Check all connections, all of them, from the battery, from the switch. Fords are bad about the wires breaking at the coil. Make sure the wire is not broken at the elbow connectors at the coil. The wires can be broken there with the insulation intact. This causes an intermittent connection. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. It's maddening! So check all connections.
    Running cold and quitting when warm is a classic sign that you have a poor connection somewhere or some electrical component is failing. It makes the connection cold. When the metal loose connection. This is classic rusty, dirty connections or broken wires loosing contact....
    Of course check your distributor. All connections there and the point gap and condenser. You may need to disassemble and clean the distributor or try another known good unit.
    Is this a 4bbl? I have found that Fords seem to be real finicky when running a 2100 2bbl. It's like they have a very narrow window that they'll run in. If it's a little off, it may not hit a lick at a snake....
    It sounds electrical but this could be only part of the problem. In rebuilding a carburetor....sometimes it takes going through it several times.
    Of course check carburetor base for vacuum leaks. Check filters and fuel pump. Is the gas dirty?
    Check the time. Find #1 and go from there. Let the engine tell you where it's at not you assuming where it's at.

    Sometimes going through all this you fix the problem and never know for sure what the culprit was. Sometimes it's a combination of multiple minor system failures that cause a problem.
  14. Oilguy
    Joined: Jun 28, 2011
    Posts: 586


    Take a look at the condenser discussion a few threads back.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!


Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.