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Technical Rumble to trunk conversion on 31 A coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dino 64, Sep 29, 2019.

  1. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    I’m a little confused about doing this. I got rid of the little plates covering the hinge holes and I’m trying to figure out where the hinge attaches to the lid. Few questions
    Do I need to drill new holes in the lid to mount the hinge?
    Do I need the mounts for the rubber bumpers at the top of the drip rails after the conversion?
    What are the threaded holes in the side the lid for ?
    What is the hole on the inside of the drip rail for ?
    A few pix to show what I’m babbling about
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  2. Shouldn't take too much to do. As I remember, all holes are already there for either. All you should need is the hinge kit, latch striker and the "prop" assembly. (Of course, you need to move the handle.)
    https://www.brattons.com/trunk-lid-hinges.html
    The triangular bracket for the bumper stay there.
     
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  3. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 759

    rusty valley
    Member

    the threaded holes on the sides of the deck lid were for the rumble hinges, you wont use any of those. yes, you still use the rubber bumpers in the top two corners, and the new deck lid hinges for a trunk style lid attach in the top corners where you have paint missing. the hole on the quarter panel left side is for the brace that holds the lid open and rattles all the time to drive you nuts. i put a bunge cord on it.
     
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  4. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,417

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Check out the Bratton's catalog for what you need, www.brattons.com. PN 29840, Trunk Lid Hinges. You also need PN 29830, Deck Lid Aligning Wedges, these mount on the very bottom of the trunk channel and center the lid when it is closed. The holes on the side of the lid are for PN 29860 Trunk Lid Support arm, and PN 29861 Trunk Lid Support Bolt Set. These hold the trunk open. The rubber bumpers only go on the bottom when a trunk is used, top for rumble. I can see by your pictures that you are not using the stock inner panels as you would also need to change them as they are different for rumble and trunk.
     
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  5. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,417

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    In picture number three, those little plates that you got rid of were part of the hinge. They were threaded and the hinge bolt is cut down smooth with a few threads left, basically a shoulder bolt. These screw in from the space between the quarter panel and trunk channel leaving the cut down part to go into the lid as the pivot. Pretty simple and basic. Picture four is where the Trunk Lid Support bolt attaches to.
     
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  6. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,417

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    I just went onto the Brattons website and if you put in the part numbers I gave you, it will give you a pretty clear picture of where everything goes. Also if you still have the little plates that you cut out, you might be able to just order the Trunk Hinge Pivot Bolts PN 29841 instead of the PN 29840 kit, it's a lot cheaper.
     
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  7. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks guys appreciate it. Already ordered the hinges and prop assemblies. I guess it will make sense once I get the parts
    Appreciate all the great information, thanks
     
  8. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Just reread the post and one thing I’m still not clear about is how does the hinge attach to the lid ?. I didn’t see any threaded holes ??
    I used Brattons for all my original parts, they’re about an hour away from me.
     
  9. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,417

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    There should be a hole on each side of the edge of the trunk lid near the top. The only thing that goes into them is the smooth part of the bolt, PN 29841, nothing bolts to it, it's merely a pivot point.
     
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  10. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

  11. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,417

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Dino, let me try to help you. Look at your third picture, the one with the spot that's not painted, with three holes. The part that you removed is threaded in the center hole, the two outside holes attach it to the spot that it was removed from. The bolt screws in from the back and the only thing that is protruding is the turned part of the bolt PN 29841. This acts as the pivot point for the deck lid. The bolts go in when you have the trunk lid in place and you have to play with the lid to get the bolts in.
     
  12. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    4B904D14-E866-4245-A9CD-FA296C27CBB6.jpeg 88889A41-0F01-4BBB-B3D4-7FF60ABD0476.jpeg C7241D10-D23A-420D-A643-F3F154E255B2.jpeg 5120B84B-F3B3-4CFD-8637-2EFD8BB29553.jpeg @woodywagon46, thanks for trying to help, maybe my car is a late 31 production model.
    See pix, no thread in center hole, the part I removed, and the top of the trunk lid has no holes for it to pivot. I guess I’m dumber than I thought :(
     
  13. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,417

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    It looks like you will need to purchase the Brattons kit and drill a hole 5/8" down from the top edge of the trunk lid for the bolt to go into. I have never seen that piece you have in your hand before. Don't get down on yourself, remember your car has been around for about 88 years, a lot can happen in that amount of time. You'll get it done.
     
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  14. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks man, appreciate it. Just wanted you to see because we weren’t on the same page.
    Appreciate your advice and understanding
     
  15. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,856

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here’s a picture of a set of hinges I removed from my coupe as I’m going to trunk lid as mine originally was. My hinges had a backer which is tapped for the screws. It uses the existing holes in the bottom and sides of the lid. I’m assuming my hinges were repro’s IMG_0626.JPG IMG_0625.JPG


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  16. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Spoke to Brattons today, great folks. The tech person explained everything to me. The bumpers at the top are optional. The lid does need to be drilled to mount the lid. The alignment wedges go on the inside of the drip rail at the bottom to guide the lid down to the latch and stay centered.
    Just wanted to post the info if anyone else is doing this conversion. Posting a link to the diagram on Brattons web sit. A picture is worth blah blah...
    https://www.brattons.com/files/index/download/id/1497469997/
     
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  17. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,088

    upspirate
    Member

    Glad you got back with us. Looks like the one piece goes inside the trunk lid? Or against the edge of it,bolted through the holes with the slot at one end to adjust?
     
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  18. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,417

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Glad you got it sorted out, Brattons is the go to place for Model A parts. As they pointed out, there is no need for the bumpers up top because the hinge pins don't allow the trunk to move and bounce around, they are needed on the bottom only. You should see two holes at the bottom of the drip rail channel to mount the wedges with 1/4" counter sunk bolts. Are you using a stock type trunk handle?
     
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  19. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Inside the edge of the lid.
     
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  20. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Yes, ordered the stock handle, the original was pitted and didn’t have a key. I know which holes you’re referring to. Thanks again for you help
     
  21. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,722

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Bringing this back up cause I‘be run into another problem in this conversion. Firstly, thanks to everyone who helped to this point, the hinges are installed and work fine. The latch is now the problem. I have a new trunk lid latch and handle from Brattons. They said this is the correct part. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] I can’t figure out how to install it tho. Any of you that have done this, do I need to cut the into the back of the lid to accommodate the latch ? Here are a few pix of the confusion...


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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