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Royal Purple or Amsoil ??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rice n Beans Garage, Mar 22, 2011.

  1. c-10 simplex
    Joined: Aug 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,367

    c-10 simplex

    i've used royal for the past 50,000 or so miles and the car just turned 300,000. i'm not sure if royal was the reason for that?

    i now use Redline 5W-30 because i got the flat lifters and not every RP weight has the right zddp.

    i use redline exclusively in all my cars.
  2. Ole_Red
    Joined: Jul 29, 2009
    Posts: 596

    from 206, WA

    bumping to get updated opinions on RP. Thinking about using it in the 283 in my 65 Stude.
  3. bob35
    Joined: Aug 26, 2011
    Posts: 75

    from DFW, TX

    Royal Purple here as well... in all my manual trans and rear diffs for the past 3 or 4 years. No issues here. I'll continue to use it for those applications, but for engine oil I've been using Summit's ZDDP oil, which I will also continue to use.
  4. cooger
    Joined: Nov 5, 2008
    Posts: 233


    I've got an old tractor motor with sludge in it. Was told Rotella T would work for it but it has a lot of detergent stuff in it, good for cleaning out leak spots. This is a flat tappet motor, runs good and i don't want to go into it.
    Any suggestions on oil????
  5. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 5,602


    I didn't see where he "stated he had "rebuilt" them." I may be wrong, but it would appear that you're making an assumption.....

    Our family has 4 daily drivers because of school, work, etc we all need a car. Two of them are flat tappet motors, well broken in, and I don't put anything in the engines other than plain old off the shelf O'Reilly branded 10-40 motor oil. I've done that for many years, change oil in all of 'em every 3 to 4 thousand miles, and have never had an engine issue. Based on MY experiences, and not those of others, or hearsay, I do not see the need to use anything other than the refined dinosaur blood that I've been using.
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2012
  6. The Doddfather
    Joined: Jan 23, 2012
    Posts: 40

    The Doddfather
    from Va

    i've used amsoil but it was expensive and had to buy two huge filters for 360k miles out of the car but the body and underside was rusted so bad we had it scrap it even though the engine ran great with no leaks or burning
  7. Dog Dish Deluxe
    Joined: Dec 23, 2011
    Posts: 778

    Dog Dish Deluxe
    from MO.

    Lost a motor on royal purple. It sucks. I just use Valvoline 30wt with zddp additive. Works good for me. The important part is the zinc additive, not so much the oil. I run it in everything from my rod to my tractor to my daily drivers (because cat. converters are cheaper than engines.)
  8. derbydad276
    Joined: May 29, 2011
    Posts: 1,324


    500,000 miles on amsoil no engne problems 4 different cars
    over the last 15 years I average 25,000 a year on my work car
  9. farmboyhotrodder
    Joined: Dec 19, 2011
    Posts: 66

    from PA

    RP is fully compatible with mineral based oils, and I've used it without any complaints.
  10. Used Royal Purple in my TAFC
  11. zzford
    Joined: May 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,823


    I've used only "3 in 1 oil" in all my engines.
  12. mr crocket
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 70

    mr crocket

    Dead on with the "people are dumping perfectly good oil" Little off topic but with bypass filters and oil analysis there are a lot big diesels out ther running 250k plus with the same oil.
  13. I won't use either! TORCO
  14. verno30
    Joined: Aug 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,089


    Brad Penn is the old Kendall green oil. Many NHRA Pro Stock teams used it in the early 90's. We used it on our Pro Stock car. As many have said before, it is the BOMB!!!! Has anyone tried Joe Gibbs oil?
  15. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,912

    dirty old man

    Seems this is the "thread that won't die"! But as long as it's here, I might as well update the Amsoil lineup as relating to hot rods and other vehicles without catalytic converters or particulate filters.
    Amsoil now carries an assembly lube formulated to cling to engine parts and provide exceptional wear protection and inhibit corrosion. It is designed to disolve in hot oil, thereby eliminating oil port clogging and deposit formation.
    Break-in Oil (SAE30) is formulated for crate and newly rebuilt engines where you have the need of an oil that will permit ring seating while at the same time protecting flat tappets and cams from wear during the critical breal in period when wear rates are highest, while increased film strength protects rod and main bearings from scuffing.
    Then we have oils designed for engines with flat tappets and high valve spring pressures and rpms, again w/o cats:
    Premium Protection comes in 10W-40 and 20W-50, has high ZDDP, and is excellent for high performsnce non cat gas or diesel engines that are driven regularly.
    Z-ROD comes in 10W-30 and 20W-50, again for non cat applications with high ZDDP, but intended for "trailer queens" and other show cars and classics which may spend long periods in the garage not being driven. Z-ROD contains high levels of anti corrosion additives to combat corrosion problems often accompanying long-term storage.
    Then comes "Dominator" Synthetic Racing Oil in 5W-20, 10W-30, and 15W-50. These oils are intended purely for off-road racing at high rpms and temps, with frequent teardowns for inspection, etc. They concentrate purely on film strength, shear stability, and friction reduction with little in the way of additives needed for street driving for deposit control, etc.
    Last, but not least comes the Super Heavy Weight SAE60 Synthetic Racing Oil for use in Top Fuel and other classes using exotic fuels.

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