Customs Ron Hings custom 56 Chevy convert

I knew it would bug you until you fixed it! Glad you found something that worked.

 

Look! It’s the great pumpkin Charlie Brown. He is real! He brings goodies to all the good girls and boys every Halloween who are in a pumpkin patch.

 

SURE LOOKS BETTER THAN GREEN !!!!

AND I LOVE THE WIDE WHITES

 

It's the little things.. Gotta kèep out the Minnesota winter!

 

Another great custom purchase Mark. I've just discovered how much fun convertibles are myself! I'm impressed by how thoroughly the colour change was accomplished on this one (and, you certainly didn't need another green chevy - right?). ;D

Oh, and I'm glad you discovered that worn rod too! Whew!

-Dave

 

Hey Mark, I love the custom '56 (and remember it from the magazines back in the day). Way cool that it still exists with as much of the original customization intact.

Just in case you're interested in purchasing a "kit" to start on a another cloned version.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1961-chrysler-300g-new-pics-added.1211461/

 

I'd love to see it without the parade seats boot

 

The work it took to make that back seat full-wraparound like that is pretty impressive, even more so if that's the original upholstery from the first custom build. Even if it's not, the work it took to make that upper center piece of vinyl and the two outer upper pieces have that much curvature with no wrinkles and with only the two seams connecting them, that must have been an incredible effort.

 

Mark Tomlinson , one of the BEST. Wonder if he is still around,
anybody know ?

 

Nice! It’s all in the details. How well does that supercharger work?

 

@Moriarity I have never seen spark plug wire looms like that, one-off? And the coiled lines on both sides of the engine, chrome? And is the intake polished or just the runners? I like the look of that bay!! You have some cool shit but this engine bay does it for me.

 

Transistorized Ignition? What a time capsule under the hood.

 

In my limited knowledge of power adders, I know you can buy a carb off the shelf calibrated for blow-through boost situations. Which means that not any old carb will do on a blow-through application. Might be worth finding out what those calibrations are, as when this car was built they might have been thinking more of the cool factor than actual performance.

I won't post them here but a quick google search came up with some articles and threads on modifying an Edelbrock/AFB for blow-through applcations.

 

WOW! That carb is probably worth a mint to a Studebaker guy! This car get's neater by the minute.

 

Virtually ALL genuine Carter AFB carbs can be modified for blow-through; one simply needs to look at the modifications Carter made on the Avanti carbs:

(1) idle mixture control screws seals
(2) accelerator pump seal
(3) float baffles
(4) throttle shaft seals
(5) Double the airhorn gasket

(1) The idle mixture control screws are the easiest of the modification. Remove the idle mixture control screws, mill a shallow larger diameter hole centered on the idle mixture control screw threaded holes. Insert an O-Ring of the appropriate size. The O-Ring should just stand proud of the casting. Now assemble each idle mixture control screw with the original tension spring, and a small steel washer with the I.D. just sufficient to slide over the screw. Insert the idle mixture screws through the O-Rings.

(2) The accelerator pump seal may be fabricated by fabrication a brass plug with a center hole 0.005 greater than the accelerator pump shaft. Acquire two (2) neoprene (or Teflon) washers, and a two diameter spring with the smaller I.D. on both ends slightly smaller (0.005) than the O.D. of the accelerator pump shaft. The larger diameter of the spring should be in the center. When the spring is depressed, it should collapse on itself. Assemble the plug with a pilot shaft, a washer, the spring, and the second washer; and press the assembly into the airhorn on the pump side. Remove the pilot shaft. The accelerator pump shaft will be inserted through the plug when the airhorn is placed on the lower body. There is now a seal on both sides of the pump shaft, held in place by the spring.

(3) Float baffles. The two halves of each float should be un-soldered. A cross-baffle to fit along the seam of the float should now be fabricated from very fine expanded aluminum, with pins at 90 degrees from the baffle to hold the baffles in place. Insert in the male half of the float. Re-solder the floats (remember to free the equalization hole to allow temperature equalization, and close the hole after the temperature equalizes). Soldering should be done with an iron, not a gun. I have yet to see an electric gun that produces sufficient heat (there probably is one). PHENOLIC floats are only good for a boost of maybe 4 psi. We have used the normal reinforced Carter brass float (the ones with vertical indents) of up to about 8 psi. At this level of boost, they will slowly deteriorate. About 6 psi has shown no deterioration. With the baffles we have not seen issues with 10 psi (and more) of boost.

(4) Throttle shaft seals. This is the tricky operation. There is a low pressure area in the secondary on each side of the auxiliary valve. Machine 3/16 inch holes through the floor of the secondary in this low pressure, through to the flange. Mill 1/8 inch grooves from these holes to the center of each of the throttle shaft bearing surfaces. Remove both throttle shafts (remember to grind off the back sides of the throttle valve retaining screws prior to disassembly). The screws are 6x32 and must be replaced with new. Use a drop of blue Loctite on the threads when reassemblying. Machine grooves in both ends of each throttle shaft to correspond to the grooves in the throttle body. Use a solid mounting gasket between carb and intake approximate 3/16 inch thick (I use Armstrong N-8090 material for these). The seals are vacuum seals. The pressure at the ends of the throttle shafts will be relieved through the grooves by the low pressure areas.

(5) Self-explanatory. The two gaskets should be stapled together just before the slots for the bowl secondary baffles (again, I use Armstrong N-8090 material for these gaskets).

Remember that the genuine Carter AFB's were pressure-cast and are more dense than vacuum-cast units, thus much less prone for leakage though the castings.

Oh, and the groove technology for the vacuum seal was also used on the Holley 4000 series used on the supercharged 1957 T-Birds.

Easy as pie, right?

And before anyone asks: NO, I am no longer rebuilding carburetors, too busy making kits.

Jon