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Roller Painting Your Car

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kerry67, Sep 3, 2008.

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  1. Hooligan63
    Joined: Mar 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,343

    Hooligan63
    Member

    It's funny,I remember my grandfather,who owned three shops,doing this to junker cars for the hell of it,and the junkers looking really damn good afterwards.I've heard the same people that trash the roller method also trash the spray can method,but I have done spray cans and had them come out with shop quality.You learn tricks with what you're using to figure out what works and what doesn't.Damn people,how do you think they painted cars before spray guns?Vat dipped,brushed,probably rolled on.None of this stuff is new,it's been around for years,and always recirculates just like everything else.
     
  2. Steelsmith
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 581

    Steelsmith
    Member

    I'd been painting for 20+ years when I first started looking into pinstriping, (this was back in the late '90's). It too was OIL-BASED. That's what most guys who paint stumble over. In automotive painting OIL-anything is a no-no! We are trained to wash after eating chicken for lunch, with solvent lest we contaminate the paint surface, with oily/greasy fingers! All of this phobia about oils is time-based information.

    If you started painting in a previous era, the paint was oil-based. We are talking oil, as in motor-oil! I know it sounds weird now, with all of the paints being plastics-based, (acrylic, urathane, poly-urethane). Then it was the norm, if you wanted better flow you thinned with mineral spirits, it's slower drying, allows the paint to laydown for a longer period. Some manufacturers recommend thinning with acetone, this is for a quicker-drying, (more texture) paint job. If you want it smooth, you can get it smooth, it's a matter of recipe, which thinners you use. You don't have to color-sand between coats if you really know how to mix the paint thinners to flow for your particular temperature/humidity. That's where the rub comes in, you really have to know/understand what you are mixing to get the desired result.

    Todays paints are much easier to use/apply, until you get into the more exotic types. Then it requires more skill/experience. It's the same thing, just different era's, different materials.

    Don't knock what you haven't experienced, it just makes you look stupid.
    Oh, and by the way, in the oil-based era, they actually used a light oil to buff a car's finish out with! How's that for weird! Ha!
    Lighten up people, it's just different experiences talkin', have some respect.

    Dan Stevens
    dba, Steelsmith
     
  3. teddisnoke
    Joined: May 24, 2005
    Posts: 1,138

    teddisnoke
    Member
    from So Cal

    [​IMG]

    Hand-rolled with Rustoleum Copper Hammertone, reduced with Xylene. Couple throwaway brushes for touch-up around the corners. Got more compliments than not. Go figure. Must have been the fumes....
     
  4. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,357

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    That wagon is rad!!
     
  5. vncruiser
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 541

    vncruiser
    BANNED

    There was a guy on the Corvette Forum who painted his '72 with Rustoleum using a roller..Couple of years ago...He then wet sanded and buffed it and for a driver, it didn't look half bad...
     
  6. Dan;
    don't believe petroleum based oils were ever used in oil paint. The most
    common was linseed oil.
    However acrylic and the urethanes are both petrochemicals.
    Buffalo Bill.
     
  7. Rex at Lowbrau Lines
    Joined: Nov 15, 2009
    Posts: 24

    Rex at Lowbrau Lines
    Member
    from Mesa, AZ

    I have everything we need to spray your car if you just buy the materials. It will be faster and less work.
     
  8. road angel
    Joined: Nov 19, 2009
    Posts: 3

    road angel
    Member
    from Canada

    [​IMG]
    heres an S 10 I rolled with one shot, same stuff I pinstripe with sometimes I use any oil I can find to help it flow on the mack brush. do a roll, sand it smooth and repeat as needed just like a show car clear coat. makes a good basecoat too. rolling it dark green this year. turned out better than the 2500 dollar job I payed to getthat was too thin to use as a basecoat for airbrushing.
     
  9. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,945

    big creep
    Member

    different stokes for different folks!
     
  10. spinalremains
    Joined: Apr 3, 2010
    Posts: 108

    spinalremains
    Member

    I didnt have the money to paint my first car when i was in high school, so i painted it with flat white house paint and a brush
     
  11. Steelsmith
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 581

    Steelsmith
    Member

    Buffalo Bill, it's a mind set thing. Think oil as in motor oil. Not plastics as in acrylic or urethane. That doesn't mean it has motor oil in it, although I have heard pinstrippers use motor oil and other kinds of oil on their brushes and some times for thinning too.
    My point was that the base component 'oil' requires a different perspective on what works and how to use this product.

    Dan Stevens
    dba, Steelsmith
     
  12. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,426

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    im going to paint mine with mud and a brick:rolleyes::D
     
  13. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,729

    the-rodster
    Member

    the thread

    that


    would


    not



    DIE.
     
  14. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 10,706

    metalshapes
    Tech Editor

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