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Rocky tries out Gibbs oil on the 34 coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rocky, Oct 12, 2012.

  1. My trusty old 34 five window is still at the body shop and it gets a little damp in there in the winter so I sent off for a four-pac of Gibbs to help protect the bare metal.
    I got all jiggy with the hood top....gibbs and scotchbrite followed up with gibbs and some fine steel wool. I thought the gibbs would actually disolve the surface rust after reading some testimonials on line. It didn't do it for me. I had to rely on the scotchbrite pads and steel wool to remove the light rust and followed it up with steel wool saturated with Gibbs. Did a nice job and if it protects against rust coming back, I'll be happy. Here's a couple photos of the car after Jimmy and I wiped the body down with a couple rags.looks remarkably better. I sure hope they'll be no primer adhesion problems down the road.
    Little things like this re-ignites my motivation to keep going..
    Whaddya think?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  2. GaryB
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,530

    GaryB
    Member
    from Reno,nv

    lookin good Rocky,be interesting to see how the primer reacts.really like this build,the hood sides are a very nice touch.good luck
     
  3. Oops! We took the driver's side hood side off to do a little welding/grinding/shrinking/straightening. Shoulda put it back on for the photo. Here's what they look like.aftermarket 33 ford hood sides with middle cut out and 34 chevy master hood sides welded in...kind of a different look. The stainless moldings are going back on after paint....uhhh and after I polish them, They're straight but scratched up and need a good buffing.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 10,431

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Suuu wheaatt!
     
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  5. HELLBILLY
    Joined: Feb 9, 2003
    Posts: 682

    HELLBILLY
    Member

    I like that! Great idea, oh and I had the same thoughts as you on the Gibbs and primer........ I have a couple long term bodies in the bare also. :)
     
  6. The can says you can paint over it..
     
  7. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,626

    GARY?
    Member

    The '34 is looking stellar!
    All bare metal build? If so, your off to a good start.
     
  8. Still scares me, paint isnt cheap.
     
  9. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,167

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Hi Rocky.Have you ever tried BoShield.It was developed by Boeing for rust and corrosion prevention.I have tried it,and it does work pretty darn good.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  10. Hey Rocky, coupes looking good. I really like the hood treatment.

    From everything I hear you shouldn't have any problem painting over Gibbs.

    Mick
     
  11. dragsled
    Joined: May 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,977

    dragsled
    Member
    from Panama IA

    Body looks great ,I'll have to wander over some time and see it in person, Tim Jones
     
  12. anteek
    Joined: Feb 27, 2009
    Posts: 394

    anteek
    Member

    Really like what you did to the hood sides. Not only looks GREAT but will stiffen the sides.
     
  13. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 8,105

    brady1929
    Member

  14. alfin32
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,344

    alfin32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Essex, Ma.

    Very nice shop, congrats.
     
  15. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,575

    flamedabone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER



    I wouldn't trust the can... Before you put any bodywork or primer or whatever on that little car, I would take her outside and wash the everlovindogshit out of her with good soapy water to get all that stuff off.

    I never like to put filler or primer on anything other than nice clean bare metal scuffed to 80 or so. BUT, I have zero experience with Gibbs, so I might be full of shit....


    Your little car looks awesome. You gonna make it to HAMB Drags 2013?????


    See ya, -Abone.
     
  16. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 12,858

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Killer Rocky........
     
  17. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,008

    koolkemp
    Member

    Car is looking awesome Rocky! I am with flamedabone ,scrub/sand it really well scrub again with thinner or some other solvent wash...
     
  18. I don't know anything about Gibbs except what I have read on the Hamb,,but I do know when I see a great looking project finally coming together.

    The hood sides are gonna defiantly set it apart from the herd! HRP
     
  19. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 6,004

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    I've been coating the bare metal Brookville deuce roadster bodies I know are gonna be around for a while with Gibbs for several years and have had no negative feedback about paint problems.
     
  20. ss34coupe
    Joined: May 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,070

    ss34coupe
    Member

    Rocky - the build is turning out great!
     
  21. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,357

    Royalshifter
    Moderator
    from California

    It kept the Victoria unrusted for a whole year....works fucking killer.
     
  22. Brandi
    Joined: Sep 1, 2007
    Posts: 1,038

    Brandi
    Member

    A buddy of mine put that all over his bare metal pickup last spring up here in the soggy NW and then we went to Bonneville. His truck has a HELLUVA lot less rust (read: none) compared to my roadster.
     
  23. FANTASY FACTORY
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 257

    FANTASY FACTORY
    Member

    Car is in the shop?? pick up the primer gun and shoot a fender..
    40 years experiance makes me cry snake oil, just running a salamnder in the shop results in fish eye, unless you plan on using dulux.
     
  24. Chris 50
    Joined: Feb 1, 2002
    Posts: 439

    Chris 50
    Member

    I'd be interested to see if this affects adhesion down the line also. So you cut out the '33 louvers? I don't suppose you have and would part with them?


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  25. Fender? What the hell is this "fender?"
    Ha ha..I thought I'd let the stuff sit and "de-gass" for awhile.I'll try it on a test-panel.
     
  26. daddy_o's_diner
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,774

    daddy_o's_diner
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Damn that's a nice looking body Rocky.




    .
     
  27. BELLM
    Joined: Nov 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,588

    BELLM
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking awesome. Can't wait to see the finished car!
     
  28. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,097

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    Hi Rocky,

    I was the unofficial Australian dealer for Gibbs Brand a while back and used it on my bare 32 5 window coupe (avatar), various metal parts including a set of 16x11 Magnesium wheels. All came up looking brilliant and it's great stuff. I no longer am involved so have nothing to gain by this post but...

    1) Applying it with steel wool is not the recommended way to get the most protection. It is a good way to clean but the final application needs to be as you read on the can. Just do as it says. It needs to be applied liberally (preferably to a cloth and not directly to the body), be allowed to sit for a while saturated and very gently (barely pushing without pressing) wiped over with a clean paper towel to remove only the excess. That will give you the best protection.

    The end result is metal that looks wet but it's not. You can "test" this by gently brushing the back of your CLEAN fingers against the metal (it's almost irresistible not to). You will expect them to come away wet with gibbs but there will be nothing. Though Dave says it's ok to touch the metal with your bare hands I tried to avoid it. Another benefit is that Gibbs isn't oily and does not attract dirt and dust like WD40 and CRC (which no one should ever use on a bare steel car body!).

    It's really the best product of it's type and the best penetrant out there due to it's ability to penetrate gaps as small as 1 micron size which is many times smaller than what WD40 can penetrate.

    2) This is the biggest misconception. You can NOT paint directly over it. Normal metal prep procedures must be followed.

    What this is referring to is that the product contains no silicones or other nasty stuff (like WD40 or CRC does which I would NEVER use on a bare body. I shudder when I read people doing that).

    All they are saying here is that you should still clean and prep your metal body as you would a normal bare steel body but if you used Gibbs Brand on your metal AND you prepped and cleaned it thoroughly you should have no problems such as fish eye, lifting or lack of adhesion...etc.

    Though I hesitate to link anyone back to Dave at roadsters.com (PM me why if you must) he does have an excellent page on Gibbs here.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2012
  29. painkiller
    Joined: Feb 10, 2005
    Posts: 132

    painkiller
    Member

    Why not just epoxy prime it?
     
  30. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,097

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    I can think of at least two reasons.

    • Bare metal is just cool to look at.
    • Not finished working on it yet.
     

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