what have you used to stop your 1949-1954 chevy? i don't think i want to use the walton style firewall mount power steering unit to keep a cleaner engine bay. so i'm looking at a 1970-71 master cyl. i think they ran disc front drum rear(same thing i'm running). but throw me some ideas i'm stumped! -marty
I got a man. master cylinder from a early 70's corvette made for disc/drums Mounted it in the stock location. ECI disc kit up front on the stock spindles. It was one of the best things I did for that car. I also went to a circle track race shop and got some universal braided brake lines and fittings made by earls and it was a lot cheaper that trying to find the camaro lines that eci recomends. Dont forget the residual ( sp?) valves, and the proportioning valve, they are a must.
I run stockstockstock. Once you learn to leave them a little loose they grab good. I can lock all 4 wheels up and I got 215-60x15's BFG radials that have 7 inches of thread on the ground. No power brakes either. Frank
Tman...will a dual really fit in the stock location? i've been assuming this whole time they didn't. 54BOMB...that's what i was looking at except 70-71 camaro manual master cyl. but thanks for the corvette idea too. where did you locate your proportioning and residual valves?
I think we pulled a clean one from a early 70's chevy truck....couldnt afford the Waltons one at the time..Can always swap it out later, but it has been working fine for me..
I had mid fifties Chevy five lug drums on mine, late fifties Chevy car rearend, stock master. Seemed to work ok, but that was early eighties & I lived out of town, so traffic wasn't an issue.
67-76 Vette Non-Power M/C. I made my own bracket. It loos just like the on in the NCA catalog, I also upraded the front brakes to Bendix style. Todd
I have the dual m/c kit from NCA. It mounts a dual m/c behind the stock one. You gut the stock m/c and there's a rod that passes from the pedal, through it, and to the dual one. It's a bolt in deal.
It fits fine. I am running drums on both ends, it stops fine. With your setup and the right Bore MC, yours should be good as well. Look into the ECI kit.I sold a few and am happy with mine. NOTE: my exhaust IS asymetrical, the drivers side dips under the MC.
Excuse me but Vette's were 4 wheel disk from 66 on. The Camero early 70s would have been disk/drum. The old partsman !!
Yes they were John But they did not have any internal RPV's so you can use the Vette m/c under the floor and use external 10lb RPV's. Todd
I got the valves ( both the proportioning valve and the residual valves, 2 and 10 lbs ) from summit. Its a tight fit but the new master fits in the same spot and used the same brake pedal, the hole in the floor didnt line up to well but I could still fill it from there. I had to order the master from napa cause it wasnt a stocking item, I just went off of what the instructions said, I didnt try to match up a new master cylinder. I think it was about $25.00. I ran my exhaust 2 into 1, 3" pipe down the pass side of the car. The only thing I might do different would be to go with a smaller bore M/C. might have given me a better pedal ratio and stopped the car a little better, but I never got that far with it. It stoped way better than stock but I think there was still room for improvement, ( fwiw I had a ford 8.8 rear end with the stock mustang brakes on the rear )
Homemade bracket, gutted stock master, vette 1" master (non power) ECI brackets up front and 55 rear, soon to get a s10 disc rear, and I use a adjustable valve to the rear. Works way better than drums, and since I don't keep it down at 55, I need better brakes.
Im still running the stock MC would really like to get a Dual MC under the floor where the stock one is at, Is there an inexpensive way to make this happen? Im still staying Drum / Drum just want the safety of a Dual MC
see above, with a mustang or chevelle drum master, say 66-67. I used some 10 ga steel and a 3/8 rod, took an afternoon with a mig.
this thread has been extremely helpful. thank you all for giving advice and some even with pics, pics are good i've got a lot to consider here, i love having options...but that's probably the single best thing about building hotrods, is that theres no right or wrong way to do it. unless it's unsafe of course. -marty
not tryin to rob the thread here, but after may, imma put a 350/700r4 in my 53..i want to redo the frt to disc and most likely find a drum rear for it...wanna make it safe for my wife to drive...so 2 things 1. converting the frt to disc cost about how much, if i buy outta the book.. 2. how many diff rear ends are there for this conversion...or wjhat are you guys runnin>?thanks todd
I got the ECI base kit and a friend used his employee discount at OReilly, all under $400 on the front, and I have a 55 rear currently, bolt in, or there are the nova/camaro rears that fit, or s10 4x4, but you have to weld new perches on. I would upgrade the rear springs, wheel hop was bad enough with the 235, a 350 would break the springs. We'll talk at the revival, i'm sure.
DAMN! this is great! rp [kropduster] works at oriellys and he also gave me a 55 chev rear end thats out on my car hauler! whoo hoo! thanks man! ohh and you need to record anything we discuss at the RR, i sometimes get a lil tipsy and forget things...just ask the bombers cc, theyll tell ya!!!!!LOL
I got the MP kit for the front for about the same cost. Not sure now, but back then it was a toss up between the ECI and MP kits. I went with MP due to the fact the calipers were new instead of rebuilt. On my rear-end I got that at a junk yard: '75 Nova $100. I then put in all new hardware and new drums (just to be safe). I think total investment on the rear end was $250. Also: you'll have to cut off the big Nova perches and weld on the "skinny" version to match your springs. (I used a new spring "kit" from RB's).
I got a front disc kit from chassis engineering, that was less then $400. I'm running a late model camero rear end. If you go with a camero rear end I have disc brakes for that if you want it.
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